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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - 1275 Clutch Slave with Dual M/C

Almost ready to start fitting the engine and box to my Mk1 and have come across a bit of a problem. The car is a standard Mk1 midget and the engine is a 1275 with rib case. Because of this I've obviously got a 1275 clutch and a new 1275 slave cylinder. I'm trying to keep it looking as stadard original as possible so bought the correct 3/16 metal pipe to go from the dual M/C to slave. Unfortunately it won't fit directly into the 1275 slave. So somehow I've got to go from 3/16 outlet of the M/C to what I guess is 1/4 where the flexible hose normally fits into the slave. Could I use a Mk1 slave or is it the wrong bore? I'm sure there is a simple solution but I just can't see it at the moment!!
John Payne

I'm interested in the solution to this as I'll be doing similar for the Frog rebuild, using a 1098 3/4" dual m/c like you (front discs).
Bill Bretherton

If you went to your local brake shop I'm sure they would have a reducer to fit the slave to take the smaller fitting
willy
William Revit

"If you went to your local brake shop I'm sure they would have a reducer to fit the slave to take the smaller fitting"

Comments like this crop up from time to time from our US and antipodean correspondents, but I'm not sure we have such specialist places scattered in every town in the UK. I certainly can't think of anywhere that would fit the description in my area of SW Scotland. I needed a similar adapter years ago and had a hard job to find one involving many phone calls and emails, eventually sourcing one from a place in Birmingham, 350 miles away from home.
Mike Howlett

There is a brass adapter that you have to use. I got mine from Power track brakes when they supplied the 1275 slave cylinder.
Bob Beaumont

Mike's comment made me laugh - I was just about to reply to Willy with similar. I live in Lincoln which is a small city but the centre of a large county and I can't think of anywhere local that might be able to help. There probably will be something sat on a shelf locally but it will be for a tractor and the guy behind the counter won't be able to cross reference it. Even Rimmer Bros (Triumph/MG dealer) aren't much help with stuff like this. I tend to use eBay if I need an obscure part.

Anyway I think I might have found one solution to start with. The adaptor on an old 1275 clutch master cylinder screws into the 3/4 dual master cylinder. It uses a copper washer to seal. So then I just need to make up a 1/4 kunifer pipe direct to the slave. I wish I'd have thought of this before paining the shell as I would have welded a bracket onto the chassis. Then I could have used a standard 1275 solid and flexi pipe combination.

I'll also go and have a look for Bob's solution which might be even simpler.

Thanks for the replies!
John Payne

John, could you not attach a bracket with self tappers?
Bill Bretherton

John
Have I read this correctly -Are you running a metal pipe all the way to the slave,-?
You would need a flexy pipe at the slave end to take up the engine movement--

willy

Surely there somewhere there is a brake outlet that would carry fittings, or take your bottom tube nut off and fit the larger size
If I recall the 3/16" pipe has a 3/8" unf thread and the 1/4" is 7/16"
But you can have a fitting with7/16" and a 3/16" hole
Easiest would be a 7/16"male to 3/8"female adapter and use the 3/16"pipe you have
William Revit

Either one of these fitted to your pipe at the slave

https://www.automec.co.uk/collections/brass-fittings/products/brass-brake-pipe-fitting-male-7-16-x-20-unf-3-16

or an adapter like this in the slave and use the pipe you have as is

https://www.automec.co.uk/collections/brass-fittings/products/2-x-brass-inline-connector-7-16-male-x-3-8-female-by-automec
William Revit

Cheers Willy, I think the adaptor you have found is just what I need. I'll check first but I think I'll order one then I can use the pipe I've already bought.

The rigid pipe from the original set up goes straight from m/c to slave and is long enough to form a couple of coils in it to take up engine movement so that's how I was thinking of keeping it.

Bill, strange how these things are staring you in the face but don't always click! I even work with all types of blind fasteners (high strength pop rivets basically) every day and never even thought of that option! So that's another option I have, thanks.

I'll post my results for Bill and future reference when I get it sorted.

Thanks again!
John Payne

Sometimes it can be advantageous to belong to an active Car Club. Members with lathes are often happy to make odd fittings.
I turned this adaptor on my Myford.


Alan Anstead

Is that a hint Alan?! It's a good job Bob isn't still around on here!

I'd love a lathe but I suppose you can't have everything or there wouldn't be room (or time) for the cars and bikes.

I'll be fitting your roller release bearing in the next couple of days by the way. Its only been about a year since you sent it!

Now I've almost got a Midget and a Sprite I suppose I should join MASC - I'll get round to it one day!
John Payne

Many benefits to Masc.
Award winning magazine.
Technical assistance.in my area this often ends up as hands on.
Archive of magazines with technical articles index.
Discounts.
And much more.
Areas are bound to be different but Kent is active at home and abroad and always invites folk from any area in a Midget, Sprite, or derivative. Kent has its own website www.masckent.org and additional discounts at at Factors throughout Kent.
We were on a run on Wednesday and because of enthusiasm and demand have two monthly meetings - one at each end of the county.
All for £27.50p and an initial joining fee of £5 although this is often waived if you join at a major show that the Club is supporting such as at NEC.
Alan



Alan Anstead

This thread was discussed between 29/03/2019 and 30/03/2019

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG Midget and Sprite Technical BBS is active now.