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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - 1275 manifold
|My exhaust manifold has finally rusted through. Its been on the car since around 1998 and survived some 80,000 miles so I shouldn't complain. Anyway its beyond any sort of repair so I need to do some shopping.
The dead one is a 3-2-1 system, as I understood when I bought it that these are better suited to the 1275 cars - the LCB ones being correct for the smaller capacity engines. Does this still hold true? It feeds into a 2 box silencer system which, although it is stainless steel, at 20 years old I suspect is not long for this world either so I will need to change that too before long. If not at the same time. Any reasonably priced recommendations? I don't want to go mad on costs!
Oh, engine spec is just mildly upped: 1320cc, 276 cam, MG metro big valve head. HIF44 on a Titan manifold. lightened flywheel, balanced crank. 10.5:1 compression. Metro electronic ignition. Torque preferred over high revs as there are hills and twisty roads around here.
I went to maniflow, when i replaced my 3 branch. Great quality, fitted easily and great service.
|give Kim at Magic midget a call, he sells Maniflow amongst others, and is guaranteed to give good advice and not oversell.|
|Maniflow tend to be more expensive, but they fit well and work well. |
Personally, I wouldn't use anything else.
|Dave O'Neill 2|
|Yes, my antique manifold is a Maniflow one.|
Apart from its evetual demise, which is only to be expected at almost 20 years, I did have a problem with it quite early on. A crack developed in the narrow angle where the two outer pipes come together and I needed to fill it with weld.
And, AFAIR it was also a tiresome engine out job just to get the thing into position down through the chassis rail exit gap.
|Yes! There's a note in my dismantling book:- "put manifold in place before engine in".|
|Nick and Cherry Scoop|
|ISTR that mine went in relatively easily, although I had no heater fitted. May be easier to remove the heater than the engine.|
|Dave O'Neill 2|
|It sounds like they haven't modified the design then. It was OK when I first got it as the engine was in and out several times anyway for T9 fitting, but when it later needed rewelding I discovered that it was like an impossible chineese puzzle! It so very nearly came out that it seemed that if only one could fathom out which way to turn and manipulate it, it would suddenly come free! But it just wouldn't quite come clear. :-(
But heater out solution does sound like a posibility Dave, I like that suggestion.
|The Maniflow went it without removing the heater but it was a puzzle!! I also got mine ceramic coated which was expensive but it does seem to have reduced underbonnet heat and it looks good! I also changed the carbs to HS4 using a Maniflow inlet manifold and it all works very well.|
|I replaced a Maniflow manifold LCB after 7 years. The latest version had much more clearance at the exit in the chassis. Yes I had to remove the heater. Do not forget to order clamps...|
|Yes the manifold can go in with engine in place - seem to remember as Bob notes its 'a puzzle' but it went in eventually - maybe inserted backwards and rotated + engine pushed over a bit on mounts ? but heater was in place - can't quite remember the details as memory fading !!|
I think my system is comimg up for replacement also.
This thread was discussed between 09/11/2017 and 11/11/2017
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