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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - 1275 mg rear brake backplates
Hi, the thread has gone on my rear adjuster so was looking for a new set of backplates. Seems moss, mg owners etc do not stock them anymore. Does anyone have a set I can purchase, or know where i can get a set? Many thanks. |
christian wilson |
I have a pair of very good secondhand ones; email midget1380 at btinternetdotcom |
David Smith |
About time for someone to come up with an easy and efficient method of repairing these. I think weld and tap. Any other suggestions? |
Lawrence Slater |
I repaired one of mine by making a threaded bush in the lathe and welding it in. Removed the metal strip wich goes in front (back?) of it and welded that back after. |
Alex G Matla |
Reactivating this thread - Tried to adjust the rear brake today but it appears that the threads have gone either on the adjuster screw or the backplate. Also I'm having trouble removing the adjuster although it's backed right off, so something is preventing it from being withdrawn (or does it come out on the brake shoe side of the backplate?) Has anyone had any experience of re-threading the backplate? Dave |
D MATTHEWS |
Adjuster unscrews forwards towards the drum side of the backplate. A friend turned up some threaded inserts for me and l welded them in. Or you could drill the worn bush oversize, fit in a short length of tube, weld it in place and then rentap. Adjuster thread is a fine pitch so may need an unusual tap size, but they are obtainable. |
GuyW |
David Smith has probably still got some. See above |
Dave O'Neill 2 |
One advantage of fitting a sleeve and retapping is that it can be done with the backplate in situ, so no need to dismantle hubs and halfshafts. Not that that is a particularly onerous job! Rather than seize, mine began jumping the thread. As a temporary fix - which then remained that way for about 3,000 miles, I removed the adjuster and tapped the outer edge of the bush radially with a heavy hammer. This distorted the bush slightly oval after which a new adjuster fitted and remained firm. Another thing worth doing is to cut a slice of 1/2" internal diameter tube - rubber heater hose does well. Pack inside the slice with copperease and as you replace the adjuster slip it in between the backplate and the strap at the back. It will never rust solid again! |
GuyW |
Great thread revival Dave M! I thought for a minute that Lawrence had been revived. I bought some good secondhand rear backplates for front disc braked cars (1098cc, 1275cc and 1500cc, 1963 to 1975 cars - the MKI & early MkII Sprite and early Mk1. midgets have drums all round and different rear backplates) from Andy Jennings mg spares. Another source might be Alan Trew ('Stadt' on evilbay in UK) as well as the classifieds for sale and wanted section of this website. Cheers Mike |
M Wood |
Mike the 1500 ones are different from 1098 & 1275 ones; the slave cyl bore is different and to tell them apart the locating peg is moved to the opposite side of the fluid union. The backplates therefore have the hole for the peg in a different place. |
davidsmith |
David Thanks - something new learnt. Cheers Mike |
M Wood |
I have powder coated midget back plates and non powder coated back plates. Contact Richard on 07749838528 or 01332 510130.T |
rj woolley |
Having just removed the backplate, what purpose does the metal strap (which frames the square head of the adjuster screw) serve, apart from preventing you from the adjuster screw from the back of the plate? Dave |
D MATTHEWS |
Good question. Maybe to give the threads some protection, although they still seem to get covered in mud, etc. |
Dave O'Neill 2 |
This thread was discussed between 26/03/2013 and 05/05/2017
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