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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - 1500 engine removal
Just checking i had everthing disconnected read to lift engine out and reading the good book it says to remove the carbs is it nescersary as i cant see them being in the way of anything .Dont want to create work if it is not needed |
mark 1500 on the road Preston Lancs |
I've got a 1275 an keep as much as possible on. Depends on the weight capacity of your crane. I usually just take the starter motor off as I find it gets in the way. Rob |
Rob aka MG Moneypit |
id treat the book/manual as suggestiable advice, not gods law On my 1275, I remove the oil pan before removing the engine out of the bay as its in the way with how I pull the motor, but id NEVER remove the starter....hahaha Oil cap ? Anyone remove that during engine removal ? It would save about 4-10 ounces on the crane. Prop |
Prop and the Blackhole Midget |
Mark Pulled a 1500 last week. Undid exhaust at manifold joint and removed starter motor. Removed radiator and undid hoses at heater. Disconnected throttle cable and choke. The car I am working on has a Grp front so you will have to ensure nothing fouls on extraction. So the carbs stayed on. Slotted the holes on the engine mounts for easy refit and future removals. Alan |
Alan Anstead |
1500 comes out when radiator out. All ancillaries can remain on including carbs. Just check choke cable on removal as almost impossible to reinstall if frayed. New choke cable will slide into existing outer. |
Dave Squire |
Just a quick check the engine and gearbox wont be more than 250kg, so i can use the longest reach on my hoist. |
mark 1500 on the road Preston Lancs |
Also check the legs of your hoist will clear the front wheels. Prop |
Prop and the Blackhole Midget |
Also check with your machine mart...china makes this cool tool called a load leverler that hangs of the crane and you can change the for and aft angle of the engine by on a handle that has a long cork screw ...ive rigged mine to use my electric impact wrench..or you can add grease to the cork screw to make it easier to crank on...but very invaluable...I wouldnt pull or install an engine without it Prop |
Prop and the Blackhole Midget |
on phone, sorry for crap grammar! yeah, mind the wheels. also the height of the chassis. it was a massive faff getting my engine in. the crane fit under when the weight of the engine wasn't on the car. as I let the engine down and the weight compressed the suspension the crane got stuck under the chassis! cue lots of faff jacking up the car etc etc. Malcolm |
M Le Chevalier |
on phone, sorry for crap grammar! yeah, mind the wheels. also the height of the chassis. it was a massive faff getting my engine in. the crane fit under when the weight of the engine wasn't on the car. as I let the engine down and the weight compressed the suspension the crane got stuck under the chassis! cue lots of faff jacking up the car etc etc. 250kg should be ok. Malcolm |
M Le Chevalier |
I have a load leveler and the car is on a car lift so can raise and lower as much as i want |
mark 1500 on the road Preston Lancs |
job done
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mark 1500 on the road Preston Lancs |
And only sacrificed 1 head lamp in the process.... Good job, it wasnt too bad was it ? Prop |
Prop and the Blackhole Midget |
no not that bad headlight out to repair dent in wing |
mark 1500 on the road Preston Lancs |
gearbox off and clutch is as i was told new but there was no pin in the end of the release arm. so suprised it drove ok there seems a lot of play in the push rod so will change and fit with a new pin i assume the pin just knocks out. |
mark 1500 on the road Preston Lancs |
got pin out about .75mm wear in pin and slight oval end to pushrod
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mark 1500 on the road Preston Lancs |
Malcolm; it's a real pain when that happens. I had my midge on axle stands for the whole process to avoid that problem. Dave; My choke cable was badly frayed but it's easy to fix. 1. Cut off frayed end with very sharp side-cutters or, if the cable is already a bit short, twist the frayed ends together as best you can. 2. Mount cable vertically in a vice with the end of the cable at a convenient working height. 3. Clean thoroughly with carb-cleaner or similar to remove all oil traces. 4. Apply flux to the cable-end and heat with a soldering iron or flame (better)and solder the end of the cable. 5. When cooled, file to a nice smooth and narrow finish. Now you have a cable-end that hopefully won't fray any more and is easy to fit. As it's always handy to be able to remove and refit carbs and manifolds easily for maintenance purposes and/or cleaning, that simple mod saves a lot of time. |
Nick Nakorn |
giving engine a once over thought i better check crank end float is this an ok way to check it .It measuerd 0.17mm which i belive is ok.There are lines on the DTI .
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mark 1500 on the road Preston Lancs |
This thread was discussed between 16/10/2014 and 21/10/2014
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