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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - 1500 headlamp and brake light probs

On 77 1500, I have a problem with my headlights. When turning on the switch the sidelights and tail lights come on, but not the headlights. However, when toggling the flasher switch the headlighs come on. Any suggestions where to start my search?
Also the brake lights do not light up with depressing the pedal. Where is the access to the switch on the pedal?
jt simmons

The power feed for the flasher on the signal stalk is not the same as for the regular headlights. I am betting that your headlight switch is defective. Otherwise it is probably the dimmer switch and that costs more.

If it is the same as my 72, there is a brown (unfused and unswitched power) wire to the headlight switch. Since the sidelights come one, this is ok. There are two other connections to that switch, one for the sidelights which goes out to two of the fuses in the fuse box and thence to the lights themselves, and the other that feeds the dimmer switch. Use a VOM to check for power coming off of that. I do not have a diagram here to give you the locations to test on the connector to the dimmer switch; perhaps someone else will chime in on that before I get to it?

The brake light switch is at the top of the pedal. Open the hood and remove the four screws holding the cover onto the pedal box. The switch is screwed in from the front of the pedal box and the top of the pedal contacts it at rest, turning off the lights. It is fairly common for the plunger in the switch to stop sliding out when the pedal is moved. Try squirting some silicone spray or WD40 into the end of the switch and working with it. It might free up and start working again. Do NOT try to unscrew it until desperation sets in. It will usually break partway out. Besides, how far in it is screwed sets the pedal free-play and is important to the brake hydraulic function.
David "taking a brake now" Lieb
David Lieb

I agree with David, probably you have a knackered headlamp switch. Use a meter or test light at the 8-wire junction (9-wire in my car) under the steering column. See the fat blue wire? That's the one coming from the back of the headlamp switch. If it's not energized with the switch in the on position (second position), you've a bad switch (assuming the brown wire on the switch is energized).

Stop lamps run off one of the green wires at the #3 fuse. Check for a dodgy terminal connection there.

R


Richard 1979 1500

JT - The brake light problem is most likely the switch. If the brake light switch is mounted on the pedal box you can remove it and see if the plunger in it is moving freely in and out. If it isn't try some solvent like Brake-Clean and see if it will loosen the plunger so it will move in and out easily. Reinstall the switch and see if the brake light problem has been solved. (note: Turn the ignition on while the switch is still out and see if the brake lights are on. If so, screw the switch in until the lights go off, then step on the break pedal and see if brake lights come on). If this cures the brake light problem, you have dodged a bullet. If not, you need a new brake light switch - if this the case, be aware that replacement switches are pretty much junk and will probably fail withing a year, if not earlier. The way to prevent this, is to make up and install a relay/arc suppression circuit, which will greatly prolong the life of the switch. For instructions on making and installing the relay/arc suppression circuit, see the article, Brake Light Relay in the other Tech Articles section of my web site at: http://homepages.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/
Cheers - Dave
David DuBois

I had that same issue with the headlights a few years ago. Turns out I'd accidentally pulled a wire off of its connection on the flasher switch while replacing the steering column shroud. That was an easy one.

I also had the brake lights cease to work once, and that was only a matter of cleaning the connections where the wires plug into the switch.

Best of luck,

-:G:-
Gryf Ketcherside

Thanks. I will be out in garage this weekend trying to access the brake switch and checking the headlight switch. I will let you know the progress.
Thanks for all the advice.

Jim
jt simmons

I spent the afternoon in the garage and here are the results. The brake lights now work, the plunger was stuck on the switch, a little silicone and some time did the trick, thanks.
On the headlamps, the switch seems to be bad. There is no power to the large blue wire in the harness under steering column. I am now looking to replace the switch, do I have to pull the dash or is there a way to replace it with the dash in place?
One more question today, what are the rubber straps that connect to the body and rear axle? I noticed them today and their poor condition.

Thanks again for all the help.

Jim
jt simmons

Jim,
Those are rebound straps. With telescopic shocks (that see things along way off?), the shock itsself serves to limit travel of the axle. With lever shocks, the straps are used to prevent the axle moving too far from the body of the car. I would not bother to change them until they break. If you do, make sure you get the ones for the 1500 as I believe those are longer than the ones for the chrome bumper cars.

The headlight switch can sometimes be cleaned and repaired. Study the back carefully to figure out how to remove the switch without breaking it. ALWAYS take care to avoid bending plastic that little bit too far that leaves you with a handful of broken trash. When you get it open, take a picture. Make sure you do not lose any of the springs or balls. Use a fiber brush on your Dremel at low speed to clean up the contacts, then lubricate the works with some dielectric grease (available at most car parts stores). Most of them can be fixed. I strongly recommend installing a pair of relays for the headlights to minimize the amount of current seen by the switches, thus prolonging their life. One for the high beams and one for the low beams installed on the passenger side plate covering the hole for the pedal box you are glad your wife doesn't have. The wires to the lights run right past there, so it is easy to tap into there in such a way that you can bypass the relays if ever necessary.
David "not a switch hitter" Lieb
David Lieb

As for removing the switch from the dash, get ready for some frustration until you actually see how the things are fitted. Each of those switches is held in place by a plastic clip thing that surrounds the back of the switch and fits into little slots in its sides. You'll need to feel your way around the light switch, pull the plastic clip away from the switch at each side (to disengage the tabs), at which time you should be able to pull the switch out from the front of the dash, or push it out from behind. The clip will probably include a retainer at the top for the lamp that illuminates the switch.

Best of luck!

-:G:-
Gryf Ketcherside

Alright, come to think of it, the switch fits into a separate bezel, and sitting here at work I can't recall exactly how the switch, bezel, and plastic clip all fit together.

Can anybody clarify?

-:G:-
Gryf Ketcherside

Gryf,
NOW you know why I was so vague. I always have to stop and examine each one before the attempt. They are NOT all the same. All I can say is to take it slow and be careful.
David "sadder but wiser" Lieb
David Lieb

I had a similar problem a couple years ago. I was on my way home after dark and my headlights went out. I thought it was probably the switch also, but it turned out to be the flasher stalk. The lights only worked on high beam, but low beam was dead. There are some contacts in the sstalk switch that can fail. I ended up cleaning them up and it has been fine ever since. It was an interesting ride home.. about 3-4 miles of back roads and not much moonlight.
Tim Michnay

ActuaLLY there are 2 kinds of clips

the platic ones with the little light bulb holder thats a piece of junk...aftermarket, then there is the no longer avialable original large wire paper clip version it holds tough, hard to get off, so not sure thats good or bad thing.

unfortantly I cant remember how they actually fit.
Prop

>>> then there is the no longer avialable original large wire paper clip version... <<<

Yeah, I think the wire clip is unique to the brake fault lamp, which incorporated a switch pre-1500. The switches for the lights, fan, and hazard switch use the plastic doodad.

-:G:-
Gryf Ketcherside

The plastic clip is indeed a mofo to remove in place. I would seriously consider pulling the driver's seat if I ever have to do it again (not getting any younger...). As David says, try to salvage your original switch if possible as the chrome bezel replacements are s**t. The tabs break off VERY easily. Ask me how I know..

R

Richard 1979 1500

Thanks for all the help. I now have a plan of attack on the light switch.
Jim
jt simmons

This thread was discussed between 18/06/2009 and 04/07/2009

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