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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - 1500 Midget rotisserie
I’m about to start making a rotisserie for my 1500 midget, I’ve got a bit of work to do on the underside and I’ve had my share of rust in the eye and hot sparks down the shirt front.
The main structure is fairly sound so I’m planning to use the bumper mounts to bolt to. I’ll be bracing the door apertures and everything except the front suspension will be removed. My question is where should I put the pivot points in relation to the bumper mounts? To my untrained eye the C of G looks as if it’s 4 or 5 inches below a line between the mounts. I’m not in to reinventing the wheel so I’d appreciate other’s experience. Thanks Bob |
R.A Davis |
Bob, the one I used consisted of a horizontal bar at the back, between the upper rear bumper bolt holes, with a central pivot tube.
Then at the front a bracket consisted of two horizontal angle iron arms pointing rearwards that bolted to the towing eye bolts on the inner faces of the front chassis extensions. Welded to these were 2 vertical pieces, 8" tall, joined with a horizontal piece that carried the front pivot. So, rear pivot level with the upper bumper bolt holes and front pivot 8" above the chassis legs. With these the body tub would rotate through 360 degs with one hand, so the axis must have been fairly close to the C of G. That was without doors or bonnet fitted and a fully stripped out bodyshell. No suspension parts. |
GuyW |
Guy, thanks for the prompt reply, was this a 1500 or earlier body? |
R.A Davis |
Frogeye, but the weight distribution shouldn't be very different for a stripped down shell. 1500 may need a slightly higher balance axis. Though the Frogeye bonnet is heavier than the 1500 one so it may cancel out |
GuyW |
About here:
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Paul MkIMkIV |
And about here, if that helps.
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Paul MkIMkIV |
This thread was discussed on 01/04/2019
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