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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - 5 - speed conversion kit
While still reading the interresting comments about LCB or not, I have set the ordering one on stand by :-)
Right then, the year I had the Midge now, I have all the time been interrested in some sort of 5 - speed conversion, but have so far been scared far away from the cost of one, eg. Moss's Frontline at 2 - 3000
On a quick look, I would say that all of the necessary parts are there.
The biggest problem with the conversion is that the main cross member of the body shell has to be cut out and replaced with a bolted on unit (the parts for this are in that kit) Its still an easy DIY job though and although ideally it involves a small amount of welding, this is not essential.
Second problem is that the gearlever comes out of the top of the transmission tunnel about 4" further back than with the original gearbox. Most people just accept this and get used to it although there is an alternative of shortening the gear selector parts of the gearbox which keeps the gearlever in almost the same as the standard gearbox.
You may need to get the speedometer recallibrated, but again, there are other solutions to this.
This is a fairly common gearbox upgrade in the UK and I have never heard of anyone who regretted doing this alteration.
|>>>This is a fairly common gearbox upgrade in the UK and I have never heard of anyone who regretted doing this alteration.|
You may hear some regretting soon if some of the rumours Re: re-classification of modified cars (Q plates etc) are proved to be true....
|Indeed Jim, but not for technical reasons!|
Incidentally Q plates are no longer isued. - unless they decide to re-introduce them with this new legislation.
|What about this, from what I understand it's more plug & play friendly. It's what I'm planning for my restoration (I already have the Datsun gearbox). http://032516d.netsolhost.com/about_kit.html|
|Jim, reclassification is not an issue here in Denmark (well yet, at least, you never know what is coming up from the EU!)|
Guy, shortening of the gear selector parts sound interresting, it is a DIY? Do you have any links to watch?
Stan, as I have read the Datsun 210 box'es are not nearly as readily awailable in Europe as in the US, thats why we have other are other options here. Please correct me if I'm wrong here.
The Datsun (Nissan) box is apparently a very good option - but 5 speed versions of this gearbox are extremely rare in the UK. I am not sure about mainland Europe, but I suspect the same applies.
Here is a T9 gearbox suppied with a shortened gear selector arrangement. Compare the photo with the gearbox you found.
I did my own gearbox modification - I believe this was before anyone was offering altered ones on a commercial (and expensive!) basis. Let me have an e-mail address and I will send you a copy of my "how to" notes.
|On the unaltered gearbox, the gear lever "turret" comes flush to the end of the casing of the gearbox output shaft. You can see in this photo where I cut the casing and repositioned it further forwards from the weld marks.
|Splendid Guy! My email is |
kru1 (at) mailme.dk
What just stroke me, what about the clutch, I notice a cable in the kit, is it a speedometer cable or a clutch cable? Is the bellhousing an altered MG housing to suit the T9 with the standard slave MG cylinder? Or is there something to alter here too, and what about the speedometer cable connection and ratio ?
|The cable is for the speedo... thank God the clutches are not cable drawn... haha|
As to the other I cant say, I want to say it's almost a direct fit minus a bolt or 2
You may want to look into upgrading the pressure plate to a 7.5 over the standard 6.5 inch disk and replacing the pivot arm and bearing with a concentric slave cylinder
As they say, in for a penny...
|Jan the cable looks like a speedo cable to me, I expect it has a suitably modified end to allow the Ford drive end to operate the Midget's speedometer|
Rather than recalibrate the speedo I use a bike computer driven by the brake drum to see the speed I am doing
A GPS unit will do the same job too
My type 9 conversion allied to a MG Metro cylinder head, carburettor and electronic ignition allows 110+mph running
Best uphill on a runway during a track day was 113mph
|Looking at this kit.. I'd guess it's plug and play direct kit|
It kind of looks like a concentritic throw out bearing
|No Prop he says in his ad that it is simply a roller bearing replacement for the carbon one|
The casting is drilled and (usually) tapped to take the standard clutch slave cylinder
The right hand flat section by its hole is the one needed and that is the drilled one
|The kit of parts looks to be as supplied by Morris Minor Centre (Birmingham) Ltd a kit I have used on about a dozen type 9 conversions on 1098 / 1275 engined cars.
1500 uses a different approach.
948: I made my own bellhousing.
Unless you are short in stature and sit close to the steering wheel the T9 remote does not need shortening.
Not all T9 gearboxes are suitable for the conversion.
I have fitted three Datsun gearboxes. Spares are getting rare. I cut and fabricated a repair to the heater ducting under the battery tray for clearance.
|All clutch release bearings are concentric !|
The special upgrade is to fit a concentric slave to operate directly onto the concentric release bearing!
|The Kit uses a Peter May type clutch release bearing.
In the past a QH clutch cover was specified as it had a large enough hole to allow the T9 imput shaft through.
There were problems with the QH Clutch cover in that the pressure pads could come free when the holding collar loosened its swaging.
I overcome the problem with a few tack welds.
It seems that QH then discontiued the pressure pad on the clutch cover which is missing on NOS that I have purchased so a carbon thrust can no longer be used.
The options appear to be PM or Concentric clutch release.
|Very informative feedbacks.....|
What about the pressure plate, does it require new holes and thread cutting in the flywheel ?
|As regards shortening the T9 remote, I'm about 5' 5" (1.69m) with short legs so sit close to the steering wheel, on my car the remote is shortened and I prefer this but I've driven a Sprite without the T9 remote being shortened and I've found it no problem.
If you have a shortened remote then the standard T9 gear lever can get your knuckles close to the dash and the gear lever movement takes up more cabin. You can loose about 25% of the shifting space by making the standard lever a shorter shift or change to the quickshift levers but q/s levers will rattle at 3,500 revs as they don't have the built-in isolating rubber bush.
You can also get a (red) (re-inforced glass filled nylon) heavy duty gear lever saddle clip that helps with making the shift crispier without transferring more rattle.
Photo of shortened standard Ford T9 lever keeping the isolating bush and (red) (re-inforced glass filled nylon) heavy duty gear lever saddle clip, although at the moment I'm using a shortened (cheap made) quickshift lever with igus plastic bearing that tizzes at 3,500 but the changes feel nice.
|A couple of shortened (cheap) quickshift levers, one shortened more than the other.|
|As the T9 doesn't have a drain hole and plug doing oil changes is a bit of a pain so fitting a drain plug is useful. Below is a photo of Arie's very smart g/box with drain plug added.|
Although the gear oil often recommended is Comma SX 75W-90 (GL4) for colder climates Castrol Syntrans Multivehicle 75W-90 Fully Synthetic works better.
The kit is usually a std 6.5" cover with hybrid plate.
If you are a Midget & Sprite Club member past issues of Mascot are on the members only site. There are articles on how to do the conversion available there: some written by me.
|If you do decide to go for shortening the gearshift extension, this photo shows where the gear lever emerges, slightly behind where a standard ribcase gearlever sits. It also shows the stubby gear lever that I rather like. It gives a very short throw, I guess about 2 1/2" fom fully engaged third to fully engaged 4th, with no hazard of catching knuckles on the dash or on the radio speaker!
I am not entering any argument about whether a shortened gearshift extension is better or worse than having the gearshift further back. Both work very well and as a driver one could get used to either in a short space of time. Its just a matter of personal choice.
|If I decide to look for a second hand Type 9 gearbox, eg one from a Sierra 2.0 DOHC, that I have seen for sale close to my home, should I go for the short 6,1" or the long 8,1" input shaft?|
|i like the placement of the 'persuader' in your pic Guy.|
Read my thread above and the attachment gives the info you seek on type of T9 you require.
l am pretty sure l used one of the longer input shaft ones. l remember cutting a piece off the end of the shaft on mine with a grinder sitting disc, and then putting a radius on the end to aid location in the spigot bush.
|I "Googled" the 2.0 DOHC Sierra engine, introduced as all new i 1989. Now I'm not sure at all that I can use the gearbox, when I find pictures of it on www it looks different from the Type 9. |
I don't think I can use that 2.0 DOHC engine gearbox, the name of it might be MT75 ??
The MT75 is not suitable for this application.
|The only MT75 gearbox I can think of that might be suitable was/is produced by Mitchell Cotts and used MT75 internals but had no integral bellhousing and was set-up to use them as fitted to the type 9 gearbox IIRC. Westfield used them. Mention of one here http://forum.wscc.co.uk/forum/topic/83243-mitchell-cotts-gearbox/|
|MT75 is a different beast altogether, it's an all alloy box and much bigger than the Type 9.|
The one I used came from a 1991 1.6 Sierra estate and didn't need any modification to the input shaft. I used the Frontline kit which doesn't involve cutting down the input shaft sleeve. I did the 'Weller Chop' to the rear extension before fitting. It's all still going strong after 12 years, even the clutch which has had some real hammer.
MT75 followed the Type 9.
Some info links for you -
|what about the speedometer reading when connected to the T9 box. Is it far out, or is it something to live with, fitting some small stickers on the speedo glass?|
How did you T9 guy's do it?
|There are a couple of ways of driving the speedo.
You can use a Sierra speedo cable that loops across the car and up behind the dash like a snake.
You can fit an angle drive and custom cable routing as normal.
The speedo will read incorrectly but if you use a Sat Nav with speed indication it will be of little consequence. I, however, have had my speedos recalibrated by Vintage Restorations at Tunbridge Well, who I believe have ceased trading, but there are others such as Speedy Cables to go to.
Others have fitted electronic Speedos with sensors.
|Ford also supplied a choice of different Speedo drive pinion gears. Depending on which diff you use and your tyre choice, it is possible to select a gearbox drive pinion that gives a fairly close approximation to correct, whilst still using the same standard speedometer. The gears have different numbers of teeth around 20 to 24, maybe others. They are colour coded.|
|Not sure if Lawrence had seen my last post on the matter of Ford speedometer gears, but he has just emailed the following more detailed information:
<<< The g/box speedo ratio depends on 2 components. The speedometer driven wheel, and the gear on the shaft.
The ribcase original speedo drive is 2.6:1 (13/5).
The T9 box has a number of different speedo drive ratios.
Speedo drive gear in Type 9 gear box 7 or 8
Speedo driven wheel in Type 9 gear box 22,23,24
The closest you can get to the original ribcase of 2.6:1 is to use 22/8=2.75:1. The BROWN driven wheel is 22 teeth.
The speedo is also affected by the tyre size and diff ratio.
On a 1275, with the original speedo turns per mile of 1376, a 3.9:1 diff, and 165/70 x 13 tyres, using the 22/8 combination, it results in a 6% slow error. >>>
Depending on your tyres size I think one can get closer than Lawrence's 6% when compared to the readout from a GPS speedometer, which for constant speeds should be pretty accurate. Possibly the ribcase ratio is perhaps slightly out at the best of times.
The 24 tooth one is BLACK
There is a GREEN one but also I have seen a YELLOW, which together with the BROWN, makes 4 options of driven pinion gear. Or it may be that the yellow is a duplicate, possibly for the BROWN.
|You guy's are extremely helpfull, I'm allmost embarrased....|
My tires are Avon ZT5 165/70 R13
|Christmas gift's ordered!
After a lot of reserch, I finally ended up in ordering the conversion kit that I found on eBay and then I ordered a First Motion gearbox with the modified gear lever position and the 2.98 ratio first gear. I had a very nice dialogue with Paul, a part of what lead to the procurement.
It was much more exoensive than I first thought, but less tha buying a complete kit at the main supplier(s).
But having spent more than first expected, I should have some quick fit parts. A gearbox, that I do not have to rebuild, the correct parts, a long first gear and a gearlever placed, so that I do not have to cut in the shaft tunnel.
I got a conversion kit for £400 less that eg the Frontline, which the seller claims match.
I too have had a dialogue with "Speedy Cables", they will overhaul and repair AND calibrate my speedometer to the Ford gearbox for the cost of £80 plus VAT - that's fair, I think.
I can hardly wait for Christmas Eve .....
|Richerd Jenkins (in Redditch, UK; mail: richard jenkins <email@example.com>) id an excellent job on my speedo doing a proper recalibration clean and repair with a very quick turnaround. A few BB members have used his services too.|
well done again.
My memory is probably faulty or you may be a persuasive person but I'm sure I was quoted a lot more to do the speed or perhaps I'm thinking of another supplier (certainly JDO quoted more).
Note from Guy and me that the shorten remote doesn't keep the gear lever in exactly the same place but near enough.
Well done... the hard part is done now it's just bolting it all in
On modifications like this the saying is true...once you have it running, you quickly forget the "investment" and the return on investment is the not of driving such a nice machine
.. I've paid good money for for severwl of my modifications... but looking back I've never regretted any of them in hind sight
Enjoy the adventure
|Yes, as Nigel comments, the gear stick position although close to the original ribcase one, isn't exactly the same. You may still need to modify the position of the hole in the transmission tunnel.
You can see this is what l was doing in the photo l posted a couple of weeks ago on this thread. The hole needs to be moved back about 25mm and is easiest done by drilling out the spot welds around the reinforcing lip. Then moving that piece back, rewelding and then grafting in a small strip to close off the gap at the front.
"You can fit an angle drive and custom cable routing as normal."
Do you know where to buy an angle drive? By squezing a angled drive in between gearbox drive and the cable, don't you change the direction of rotation of the cable?
Speedy Cables can supply an angle drive and a suitable length cable.the cable will then more or less follow the route of the original cable to the speedometer head.
Unfortunately I dont have a record of the length of the cable required but I expect someone here will have it written down.
The cable will run in the correct rotation with an angle drive.
|That sounds a great idea, I wonder why it wasn't adopted for my conversion (I don't really wonder).|
what was the original cable route?
The conversion route is terrible.
|I, as always, went for the low cost DIY option!
I modified a standard cable to fit to the Ford speedo driver output. It then goes obliquely through the side of trsndmidssion tunnel, curving forwards so it lies neatly between the tunnel and the seat runer, tucked under the carpet. From there it goes back through into the tunnel again next to the cross member and then takes an easy 180 degree turn through in the engine bay and back through the firewall to the speedo. Works fine. No snatching of the cable and its been on the same cable for around 80K miles.
|I seem to recall on my 5 speed data in conversion you can get an angle drive that also readjust the Speedo to the proper setting so no Speedo work has to be done|
I've never given a lot of attention to Speedo calibration as we have some variavariation on speed except for school zones and construction zones and I tend to fall into those ranges as I normally pace traffic
So I wonder if you can't get an angle drive for the type 9 Ford to recalibrate the zpeedo
|Trying to visualise it. The original cable route is out of the gearbox on the nearside crossing under the gearbox toward the front of the car then looping upward and backward through a grommet and onward to the speedo head.
With a T9 angle drive the cable comes off the angle drive on the offside of the gearbox carrying forward then looping upward and backward through a grommet and onward to the speedo head.
If a mile long Sierra cable is used it comes straight off the offside of the gearbox through a drilled hole in the transmission tunnel then snakes across the floor to the offside of the drivers footwell (rhd) where it loops forward,upward, backward and to the speedo head.
|" then snakes across the floor"|
Mine doesn,t, but its not a Siera cable. I think it was the MGB one. As I mentioned earlier, it emerges at an angle and then stays close to the transmission tunnel, lying between the left hand seat runner and the tunnel wall.
|When I did mine, I didn't fancy a hole in the tunnel or any snakes on my floor, so I bought an angle drive from Speedycables. At the same time they made me a cable to my measurements, so it would follow the original route into the car. They made it with a Ford fixing at the 'box end and a BMC fixing at the speedo end. It has proved to be very good, with a steady speed indication and none of the wobbling sometimes experienced with the original item.|
|Thanks for the answers.|
Another thing for my to-do-list then.
|Has anybody tried to fit a Mazda MX5 6 speed to a Spridget yet ?|
|There is a blog somewhere in 'tinternet about fitting 5 speed MX5 to a midget but it involves removing the transmission tunnel and replacing it with a spaceframe type structure. The 5 speed MX5 is too fat for the tunnel so possibly is the 6 speed.|
|I know people have talked about it... but it would be suggfigsnt amount of work|
|I use the Datsun conversion in the 1971. The Rivergate kit has its problems, mainly release bearing vibration, very short universal joint life and premature clutch failure with their current Chinese spring loaded disc. Even so, I would not convert it back to the ribcase for anything. It is such a joy to drive the car with the overdrive.|
|I received the conversion kit yesterday. It looks fine, every part is brand new, I think.
The ball joint's on the prop. shaft has got grease nipless, I like that.
Of pure curiosity I wrote some questions to the seller about which spares to buy, should I one day have a new ball bearing, friction plate or clutch cover. He is a kind of avoiding to answer, maybe it's to protect his business, that's ok.
But maybe some of you can answer some of my questions about the clutch parts. The clutch cover looks precisely as in the 1275 only without the pressure foot, is that correct?
The friction plate looks like in the 1275 only with different splines in the center.
Which cae is the bellhousing from? Or is it specially cast for the conversion kit?
It looks brand new and newly cast.
....and happy new year to all you you helpfull guy's!
The only part that I regreted not getting a spare for when I did mine was the clutch driven plate. Everything else is either standard, or easily adapted (like the clutch cover plate). The driven plate is a special with the splined centre to match the ford input shaft, but overall plate size to match the A series cover plates. So they are not so easily found.
as Guy has put but I'd also add (unless I've missed something) you would need to cut out some sort of aperture in the transmission tunnel to be able to get at the grease nipple on the U-J and even then you'll need a an old style syringe grease gun to get at the nipple.
|Oh, for a brief moment I forgot that the trans. tunnel is closed......|
I guess I just have to grease the joints thoroughly before fitting the shaft
personally I'd replace them before for non-grease before installing conversion - or don't worry about greasing the front ones.
I'd forgot some "helpful" person had added grease type UJs on mine and they were transferred to the 5-speed conversion. One day a couple of years later I discovered them and that my grease gun wouldn't fit on them. My mate gave a a syringe type grease gun, the sort they used to supply with the old cars, and it meant I could grease the rear which hadn't been touched for at least a couple of years because I forgot they were there.
The front one now hasn't been greased for at least 8 years, possibly longer, because I forgot about it then couldn't get to it.
I think the greaseable UJs are like the greaseable track rod ends, that someone "thoughtfully" provided me, nothing more than a PITA, the greaseable TREs seem to go through boots quicker because of greasing (and piss-poor rubber).
In my experience, so far, replace them if you want now or when required, keep them and grease them, well the back one, if you want, or don't bother.
|Clutch plates suitable for T9 conversions can be made or relined by Precision Clutches of Henstridge.|
The propshaft UJ nipples are buried in the joint. They can be removed and replaced by extended nipples.
If your grease gun head is too broad shouldered to service the nipple then some heads can be chamfered to allow better access.
|Just a random thought....|
What's to stop you using a tank cutter to make a strategically placed hole in the bottom panel of the tunnel to grease the UJ? It could be closed with a little patch of sheet steel and a couple of self-tappers to keep the crud out. Or even the same thing inside the car under the carpet?
Edit: Sorry Nigel you already said something of the kind. I should pay more attention.
|If you use a grease gun with a standard flexi-hose extension, you can reach in by sticking your arm up the rear of the tunnel to get to the front UJ nipples.|
(Now I wonder why that sounds obscene!)
|Guy don't I remember you have unusually long arms. It'd be an absolutely messy job on my car with the specially purchased oil leak.
inside IIRC would be where the carpet is stuck down and you'd have to remove the seat each time to get at it for greasing. I've often thought about cutting a hole under the car (I could drain off the gearbox oil and reuse it then) but to get the syringe in at the correct angle would need quite a large hole, perhaps oval.
Rush into the 20th century, go greaseless!
|Gentlemen, the verdict
After having received the parts mentioned in the premilinary thread, the conversion kit in January and the gearbox in start March I began the painstaking adaption / conversion with engine / gearbox on the workbench.
I must say it wasn't a plug and play solution. There are a lot of details to deal with. I have had tremendous help from you guys here when having questions that could help me on with the project.
The guy from who I bought the conversion kit was not at much help, but Paul of First Motion Transmissions has been very helpfull when having had questions.
He delivered the 5 speed T9 gearbox with the longer first gear and shortened remote.
By avoiding buying the gearbox and the conversion kit from Moss or Front Line I saved approx £1100, and that's even with the long first gear and the short remote included.
A week ago, the fight ended with a victory with me. After a couple of days of hard struggle with a bad battery teasing me, I could finally rotate the engine without spark plugs, and build up the oil pressure. Then with the engine started and playing sweet music for 5-10 minutes, after which I checked the oil level in the gearbox. Everything was ok, so I drove a little trip to see if everything felt as it should.
Without further test driving I challenged the fate and invited my wife on a drive. Everything worked fine, though with the five-speed gearbox, it fits nicely with the car. We have been driving several trips since and still no problems, knock on wood.
Lovely with the fifth and the synchronised first.
Okay, two things, the gear levr is a bit short, I'll extending a little. And then I think the clutch pedal gets a bit tight down near the floor, but maybe it will be better over time? Or suggestions?
Was it the whole expense and the hassle worth it - YES - now it's :-)
|Well done Jan ! Your attention to detail has obviously paid off, and just in time for a long summer season. You will now need to plan some good longer road trips to make best use of it!|
|Well done Jan.
I'm surprised the gear lever is a bit short especially if you have the shortened remote. I'd have thought the standard lever would have your right thigh brushed for reverse and knuckles close to the dash for first.
I'm not sure the clutch pedal will improve but others will know better than I possible solutions, certainly keep driving and see if anything changes with it and do a check on the g/box oil level once more now you've done a few drives so that you can forget about it until the next service check.
Well done again.
In the conversion kit instruction it's said, that the anti vibration rubber has to be cut and upper part of the Ford gear stick has to be removed, so you can imagine how short it is now. It's approx 4" long.
Looking back, maybe I should have cut the gear stick two or three inches above the rubber.
But theese are minor problems solved over a beer, the important thing is that the gearbox and clutch works :-)
|As you say it can be sorted later but for the benefit of other readers, I might be missing something but I can't see why with the Ford gear lever the isolating rubber needs to be removed to shorten the lever. Earlier in the thread I put a photo of the shortened Ford gear lever I had which kept the isolating rubber (and a photo of two shortened cheap quickshift levers that tizz because they lack the isolation).|
A reminder of the shortened Ford lever -
|Have you fitted a nice knob to it?
|Nigel, I absolutely agree, the stick should not have been shortened at the "rubber point", that I know now, but that's unfortunately what the instructions said......|
Are you sure that method - removing the rubber isolator - wasn't in the notes I sent you? Or did your gearbox supplier say the same? I haven't read my own notes recently but that is how I did mine and it is very short! At first I thought I might weld on a short extension but I then just got used to it. I quite like it now and it is very quick and easy to use.
The other thing I did, which really goes with the ultra-short gear lever was to shorten the detent springs that the selector shaft locates with. This then needs less pressure to move the shafts and makes for a lighter operation.
|Daniel, what is the right-hand knob from? I looked everywhere for one like that but ended up fitting a Land Rover 4-speed knob that shows reverse in the correct position.|
I considered fitting something like what you show, but decided to fit my nice MG logo wooden knop, like the one shown in Guy's photo above
I'm quite sure the "shortening instruction" instruction was the in gearbox conversion kit actually, I'll try to scan it, so that you can see it here.
The apperarance is similar as shown in your photo with the gear stick rather low in the tunnel
I too would like to know what the r/h gear knob is from, looks ideal.
The Ford (Sierra) gear knob IMO is horrible for a Spridget and feels all wrong, I think I still have one if anyone wants one or doesn't believe me.
|For everyone that can't simply turn to page 97 of a popular Sprite/Midget tuning book (which also offers advice on how to drill and tap the knob to fit the metric threaded Ford lever - not found anywhere else and I searched the internet for a long time). It's from a Jag - E-type from memory. There is a part number in the book. It's period correct which I really like when I can incorporate it into a mod'.|
|Thanks. I must have an old edition of the book, as my p97 is about the rear axle.|
|This is how the new setup appears. It seems that the gearstick goes a little further up than Guy's ......?
|Regarding shortening the Ford gear stick, section 21
|.........and here visualized in the drawing in the instructions. How do you guy's interpret the text shown in the instructions in my previous and this thread?|
......"melting the rubber...." would mean deviding the stick at the "rubber" point, right ?
Well, anyway, I will, just for a test, prolong the stick two inches and see how it works......
There were various ford levers of differing lengths so the lower stub part may be a litle lomger in yours than in mine if it came off a different model. But I think the main thing that makes it look different is that I have a heavy rubber sound insulating dome underneath the leather gaitor so the gearknob in mine nestles down into that.Its very much like on a TVR Chimaera that my son had at the time I did this installation. The actual movement into each gear is probably abou an inch or maybe a bit less. Its more lke pressing a button han moving a lever, especially as I lightened the detent spring pressure as well.
|Perhaps it's me but the work given in the instructions seems unnecessarily involved (for a later Spridget). The rubber may foul the vinyl gaiter cover if left in its original position but as shown in the photo of the gear lever I have the lever can be altered so that the rubber fits under the vinyl gaiter.
I also don't think there's necessarily a need for a washer and split pin to retain the gaiter (unless it's the very floppy vinyl).
Jan, I would suggest to you that you leave the gear lever as it is and use the car for a good while before doing any alterations to the gear lever. If the lever tizzes (at 3,500rpm on mine) then I'd guess it might tizz even a bit more if made longer, and it's only with use of the car that you can tell exactly long or short you want the gear to be.
ETA: AFAIK the Ford levers are all more or less the same
the Chims had a more elaborate console cover and the the gear knob position might have been to mirror the the knob to open the doors (which I always twisted the wrong way not matter how much thought I gave it before).
As I've said previously - I'd seek medical attention for the gear lever knob position in your car. :)
|Ford pickups definitely had a much longer gear lever Nigel. But there were also variations at different times in the standard shorter levers as fitted in the different models of the Sierra.At one time l amassed 7 T9 boxes, gathered from two local 'old fashioned' scrapyards when they were commonplace and hadn't attracted the ridiculous prices commonly asked nowadays. There were at least 3 variations on the gear levers amongst them. Most of those boxes were redistributed to friends, 2 going to a couple of former BBS participants.|
|Good points Guy, I restricted my thinking to cars and more recent availability. Even then I'd have thought (but don't know) that the rubber would have been low down on any lever to be covered by the lever gaiter so it could remain.
When I returned to Spridgets I still thought of the Japanese gearboxes and was a bit disappointed to find it was Sierra type boxes. Same as small light Japanese alternators (don't think starters?) where no longer the choice and how scrapyards have changed, things are different if not always better.
|I installed the $Frontline T-9 kit with shortened remote and still had to make this cut. Reversed the boot and Bob's your Uncle.
|Here is the source for the right shape gear knob withe sierra pattern|
|Gulp, £33 for a Jag label - is the inset thread on the knob correct to Ford thread do you know?|
|Migod that is overcomplex isnt it
I cut away a small section of the tunnel at the back like Richard and allowed the stick's upper section to come off with the heat torch melting away the rubber
No way was I going to shorten the lever though
I used the Midget's gear knob on top of the short stick
with the gear postitions visible, it force screwed in place very easily, has it been about thirteen years now? maybe...
My mini anti theft device
Reverse is not where the knob displays it to be and anyone trying to drive it using the BMC pattern will soon get stuck in a wrong 'un
Im sure you will soon get the hang of it Jan and I bet you'd hate to go back to a BMC box in the future
nOW I can listen to my stereo at speed, with the BMC box all I could hear was WHIRRRRRGRINDGRINDGRINDWHIRR
|"nOW I can listen to my stereo at speed" - 33 and a third, 45 or do you still have the needles for 78. :)|
|I HAD one of those once you know, 45s only of course but it served the purpose |
Of getting me familiar with record transport decks for 12v mobile use
Ive never had to fit/fix one since :)
(yes I have 78 needles if you need any, sadly I didnt hang on to dad's old wind up machine. I learnt to change needles when I was about four. "My very good friend the milkman says" was my favourite song as a kid using that deck)
|Bill; I can asure you I can get used to it, allready did....|
We have an extraordinary good weather situation in Denmark for the time being, all of May actually was been so far, so I have had a handfull of journeys.
It is very rewarding with the synchronised first, the looong first, that Paul fitted suits the little ligt weight vehicle, and then changing to fifth at speed, lovely - I'm very happy with it.
Today I'll go fishing Garfish with my son, so why not go in the Midget.... ?
|Regarding my concerns about the short gearstick, it's obvious, when comparing our pictures above, that Guy's gearstick is even shorter. I haven't prolonged it yet, I think I'm getting used to it OR it has loosened up a little, anyway the gearshifting is easier for me now, having driven a few hundred miles - or kilometer, as ve say here on the continent :-)
The feeling of clutch has become human too, so for the time being the Midget life is just wonderful :-)
Knock on wood.....
Nigel wanted to hear about the process of having my speedometer at Richard Jenkins.
Richard received it and the informations he had asked for April 18 and yesterday I had it back again.
I was very, very positively surprised by his work.
He did recalibrate it, did an ODO repair, altered the readout from miles to kilometer, had the face reprinted to kilometer, supplied me with a new facia O-ring, two thumb nuts and a (used) reset cable for only £80 !
And it looks absolutely brand new.
And as far as I have noticed it's very accurate.
|Now, having had the 5-speed gearbox for some weeks and a fine-sunny-weather-record-breaking May with a lot of journeys, enjoying the conversion kit/gearbox in use, I could use some comments from the experts:
When idling in neutral, the engine/clutch/transmission is talking a little, nothing much, but when pressing the clutch pedal, the engine/transmission becomes absolute noiseless.
Second, when pressing the clutch pedal down, with engine shut down or at idle, there's not a single sound, clonk or click or whatever, but when shifting gear when driving, there is a sort of mild clonk, sounds like slack in a propeller shaft or something like that. I can eliminate the clonk, by shifting very soft, by release clutch very carefull, adapting the rpm's to the speed. The supplied propeller shaft should be new. The clonk wasn't there with old gearbox / propeller shaft. I could hear the old propellershaft when lifting the foot off the throttle quick, though. That's the same now with the new.
When pushing the car forth and back in first, I can hear the transmission / propellershaft slack, but it doesn't say "clonk".
As allways, hard to describe mechanical sounds/noises.
|I noticed on yesterdays journey, that when shifting down in the gears the sound does not appear.|
Second, I took a grip on the propeller shaft at the diff. nose, turned the shaft clockwise and anticlockwise. There is no slack in the shaft, but in the diff.
|Jan, the "talking" when in neutral and the engine is on tickover is probably the clutch release bearing rattling against the gearbox input shaft. It's due to the design and there isn't much you can do about it. Sometimes increasing The tickover revs a little may help.|
The clunk noise on gearchange is probably the normal slack in the differential but it's odd then that you didn't notice it with the old gearbox.
This thread was discussed between 19/11/2017 and 03/06/2018
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