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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - 5 Speed Gear Lever

I am now sorting out the gear lever during my Type 9 conversion. Even with mods to the gear box casting the lever is further back and a new hole needs to be cut in the transmission tunnel. I attach photos of my first prototype. I am using a cut down steering rack boot to cover the Ford boot. The instructions that came with the conversion kit said make a blanking plate with a hole just wide enough the take the Type 9 boot and "wind" this over the boot until one convolution is left at the botton. I tried this but reverse was difficult to engage since the original boot acts a spring which is compressed as the lever is pushed down to select reverse. I had in effect shortened the downward travel hence the selection difficulty.

The steering rack boot works fine and I think early MGBs had something similar. However it has been suggested a leather gaiter, made up from four triangles wold look better. Has anyone got views on this?

Note there is no transmission tunnel carpet, the original one has a large hole in the wrong place. I will look for a piece of suitable carpet at the Clasic Car Show next month. Has anyone advice on making one. I would prefer not to have leather cloth covering the seams. Is it possible to join the carpet with hot melt glue as carpet fitters do. Also I don't have access to a sewing machine!

Jan T






J Targosz

I prefer this. Possibly bought from GOH Baines. But there are loads online.

Search on ," gear lever gaiter "

https://tinyurl.com/24t5j68d

I hand sewed my carpet. Use a leather needle and extra strong thread.






anamnesis

Jan

I think a gaiter, such as Anam links to, would look better. Your choice of course but the rack boot looks like, well, a rack boot. But just my opinion.
Bill Bretherton

Jan, I agree with Bill on the looks of your gaiter.
Ive used a mgb gaiter like one of Anamnesis.
And lately changed it again as ive removed the fibre glass tunnercover you buy from Frontline as its part of their 5speed conversion.

Now used the old metal bol/box from early spridgets and adapted that to fit the spot where the stick is now (5 speed + Kengine means stick is more rear of the tunnel)

Photo one is made in my midget-sparebody so no signs of 5speed conversion in this one.






A de Best

photo 1 old situation in my car with the fibeglass tunnel still in place.

Photo 2 is how its now with the cutdown gearboxleaverbowl/box.
You can see how far back my gearlever is hence why we bent a S into it to make the position of the knob-drivershand good again.





A de Best

Also tryed a leather gaiter gearlever but removed it again as I prefer the 50-60ties bare metal stick look more.





A de Best

Very nice Arie. I like that a lot.

Like an airplane cockpit in there.

Nice leather too.
anamnesis

Thanks to all for the prompt and constructive replies. I do prefer the circular rubber boots rather than the stiched up leather ones. I had searched on line and could only find the latter. My concern is I am still using the origonal Ford rubber boot as the reverse inhibitor spring so need a boot that will not interfere with this. I have made a new stainless lever and found the distance from the top of the ball to the top of the boot to be critical. Too short and you can't select reverse and to long and you can select reverse instead of first. That is why I am still using the Ford boot rather than a wire spring. Problem is the tunnel slopes down towards the rear and from right to left. Because the lever is vertical this means the flange on the boot will distorted. You have given me plenty to think about and keep the grey cells exercised!

Jan
J Targosz

Never had that problem Jan.

Get what Arie and I have.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324603986311




anamnesis

Hi Anam

Hope you don't mind me pestering you.

I note Arnie has a modified lever using a spring. Do you have the original boot or a spring? The reason I ask is I have found some dimensions of the MGB boot on line but they only show diameters and not hight. I will need one that will accomadate the original Ford rubber boot. The one you have kindly identified for me is so cheap I will buy one and try it out. The boots that look like pyramids are dreadful.

You will only note issues with the original "spring" boot if you file away the notches in the stick and dismantle everything. I cut off the original lever below the bend and turned/threaded it. I made a new upper lever than screwed onto the lower stub. This has a collar in place of the original notches. You can see this in my pic. I can increase or reduce the tension on the rubber boot by screwing /unscrewing the two parts of the leaver together. This is how I found the need to get the tension just right. I am about to make a lever out of stainless and will ensure that when tightened the collar is in the same position as the original notches.

Cheers

Jan




J Targosz

I don't mind at all Jan.

Unfortunately I can't check my levers now, as I'm on my way to the Philippines for 4 weeks.

But looking back at previous pictures I posted, it does look as if I took one of my levers apart too. Maybe I did have your problem and have forgotten. But the gaiter I'm using (in my earlier picture), hasn't caused me any problems.


anamnesis

I have recieved and fitted a MGB gear lever gaiter and surround as part of the Type 9 5 speed conversion. I had to make a small box to lift the tunnel slightly to prevent it fouling on one of the bolts that secure the lever ball plate to the box. I attach a couple of pics.The carpet is only temporary until I can get the car to a local upholsterer.

A slight warning. I made the box out of aluminium sheeting and drilled holes for self tappers in situ. The carpets are full of aluminium swarf. Brushing, hoovering and stickiy tape were useless at removing them and I had to resort to a pair of snipe nose pliers.


Jan T






J Targosz

Looks neat! You won't regret it for everyday driving.
GuyW

This thread was discussed between 28/09/2023 and 12/10/2023

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

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