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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - 5 speed type 9
finished putting the type 9 into my 1500 connected every thing up won't
turn over locked solid,back out and unto the floor when i slacken the bell housing off you can turn the engine over,you can tighten the top bolts when i put bolts into the plate at the bottom it locks solid again any ideas of what i'm doing wrong.
|It sounds as if you might have the version of the box that has a longer input shaft. These fit as usual but being "too long" actually jam against the inner end of the spigot bush hole.|
Measure the length of your input shaft against the length of the distance between the inner end of the spigot bush hole out to the bell housing face, you want a significantly shorter input shaft than the distance in to the hole. I have seen 1" quoted, you need enough shaft to fit the bush but not enough to go in far enough to bind
What spigot bush are you using? Is it fitted properly in the back of the flywheel to allow clearance?
|If the tube covering the impit shaft has been retained it may need shortening a tad.|
|Per Bill's comment: Input shafts: Type 9 input shafts are 6.9" and 8.1" respectively. |
Per Anstead's comment: Input shaft tube: (Frontline T-9 kit for 1500 midget instructions state): "From the gearbox remove the centre guide tube for the clutch bearing. It is bolted to the front of the gearbox with 4 small bolts. Clamp the base securely in a vise and, using a handsaw, COMPLETELY CUT OFF THE MACHINED PART OF THE TUBE. Clean thoroughly, lubricate the oil seal and refit. With this correctly done you should now have the base of this tube, with the oil seal still intact, and free of any metal filings. Bolt back onto the gearbox".
I cut mine here (see pic).
|Also worth noting that even with the "short shaft" box i found that the splined section of the input shaft was pressed hard against the flywheel. I had to grind the splines back by about 5 to 6mm to get clearance.|
Wish I taken more pictures...
|I just looped about 3/4" off the input shaft and then ground a fresh bevel on the end so it would align with spigot bush on assembly.|
|Bob would yours have been better if the spacer block you used had been thicker?|
For those who didn't know 1500s need a spacer block betwen the box and the bell housing, didn't you use one off James, all those years ago Bob?
It seems that no matter what has been done before there is always another twist to the type9/Spridget interface story.
|Do not shorten too much (like wot I did!) The clutch bearing falls off the end and gets jammed. Slightly irritating having to take it all back out.|
|Bill, yes I think that was the problem exactly, the plate needed to be just a tad thicker but we find other ways to get over these little issues don't we ;o)|
Gary, if you're worried it may be the wrong version of the type 9, this should help you understand exactly what version you do have:
thanks very much for the replys,i used the canly classics kit (mounting plate,spigot bearing and guide tube)meaning i can use the standard
clutch arm and release bearing.Just measured the shaft 61/2 inch from the face of the gearbox to the end of the shaft also the ford guide tube is cut flush.
This thread was discussed between 10/07/2011 and 11/07/2011
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