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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - '76 Midget Starting Problems

My teenaged son inherited my ’76 midget this past year when I purchased my MGA. It’s been his daily driver since September and he takes it to and from school and around town…very little night driving and never in the rain or snow.

No problems until recently when he had a hard time starting the car and resorted to pushing it and popping the clutch. I did a quick check of all of the ignition wires and made sure all was in place, checked the rotor (electronic ignition). It started right up, but would not start after just a short drive of a mile or two.

So, I replaced the plugs and wires, cleaned all of the terminals on the coil and again it started right up. Again, a quick run to the grocery…less than a mile, and it would not start.

I had similar problems when I first got the MGA and it turned out to be sediment in the fuel tank impeding flow. So, I will get into the fuel system tonight.

Some additional information that might be helpful…I have had the car for about ten years and have done nothing other than change the fluids and fix things as they broke. We went through all of the wiring last summer as we prepped it to be my son’s daily driver. It’s got a Weber DGV carb and an aftermarket electric fuel pump fitted back at the tank. Coincidently to the starting problems, he lost his tachometer, gas gauge, signals and dash lights…we have not sorted that out yet.

So, since it will start when we push it and pop the clutch, where should I begin to look? I would like to get him back on the road soon. Any advice would be helpful.

MJJ Jones

I don't have much time just now but the problem is electrical.
When the key is turned to the start position full voltage is applied to the coil until the key is released and then a "ballasted" or reduced voltage is fed to the coil for running the engine.
These symptoms, ie the other electical faults you mention suggest that a wire has come adrift somewhere and part of the problem is that the full voltage is not being sent to the coil for starting but it will start with a push as the key is then in the ballasted position.
So you should find what is causing the other electrical anomalies and then your starting problems will also be solved...hopefully!
JB Anderson

wow... alot going on there

I seriously doulbt its fuel...and most likely its electrical

I dont know alot about the 1500s but other here do

the 1st part that gets my attention is .... pushing the car a poping the clutch to start it ....????? ..... is this because the battry is dead and wont turn the engine over

the 2nd part that really got my attention big time, you said...

""" Coincidently to the starting problems, he lost his tachometer, gas gauge, signals and dash lights…we have not sorted that out yet."""

id say you solve that and your and your starting issue will be solved

the wire from the coil passes thur the tachometer

my guess is 1 of 2 things

1... you got a bad shaffing or screw threw the ignition wire and Its double grounding out and at somepoint will burst into flames tourching the car, burning down the house, and killing everyone inside, soooo do you have hot dogs and mashmellows on the stand by...

2nd... not as grand or spectacular..."grounds", boring old rusted, dirty, loose ad wornout grounds


im guessing if you disconnect the positive side of the coil and run jumper wire to the positive side of the battery to the coil and then turn the key it will start right up...if it does...then you may bow on bended me and worship me as your new god...its been suggested id make a great new pope...I think they are right

let us know what happens...definatly before the car burst into flames

hollow be thy octigan

prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

btw... if after on of these trips to the store and then it wont restart as you said... feel up the coil... if its super hot, then id strongly look to a bad ignition wire in the loom and not so much a ground...

so disconnect the pos side of the battry when not in use, and keep an ABC fire extingiher close by at the ready...once the fire starts, it wont take but a few minutes to be beyound the avg persons control.

FYI..... i do know as an absolute fact that ice cold coke a cola in a can ...shaken and then popped will knock down a 3 foot tall flame in the drivers seat almost instantly

prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

I had the same problem once ie no tacho, no fuel gauge, no turn signals and no dash lights.

After much searching and measuring with a volt meter, I discovered (by total fluke) that the fuse had come loose in its holder.

The fuse measured 12 volts at each side but when it was put under load the poor connection could not cope.

Have a quick look here before you start tearing the car apart, might save a lot of hassle.

Peter.
P Dunne

yes and the fuse holder connections or even the fuse can get crudded up enough to stop full load or even the connections on the other side of the fusebox where they're linked
Nigel Atkins

This thread was discussed between 14/02/2013 and 15/02/2013

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