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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - A post/pillar repair

Good afternoon/morning/evening gents,

I bought my first midget earlier this year and have started with some bodywork improvements and repairs with a view to having it looking good for next summer.

It is generally solid but needs a few holes in the boot floor and sills patched up, aswell as a repair to the driver's side A post. I knew the cover needed cut off and replaced but the lower door hinge area is gone too so the post itself will need replaced.

It's not immediately clear how I remove it - I was going to cut the cover at the corner of the windscreen frame but how do I go about removing the post from the body?

Here's a pic of what lurked beneath the paint.

Many thanks,
Paul

P Robson 1500

Having done this recently, I can recomend a set of pics for you to look at. Courtesy of Simon, not me I hasten to add.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/53944874@N04/sets/72157624987461278/ or try this link if that one fails, http://tinyurl.com/kxbpynq


But before you cut the whole A post skin off, cut off the bottom section, and take a peek at the bottom hinge. you may only need a repair section.

To remove a section, or all of the A post skin, : --

Cut a SHALLOW horizontal slot along at the height where you want to remove the skin.

Grind off the rear fold of the skin -- where it folds towards the front wing, or just drill out the spot welds. Then grind the edge off the front fold of the skin, where it folds towards the door. You may also find that there are a couple of spot welds holding the front of skin to the a-post proper. Drill them out.

And looking at that pic, I'd remove a whole lot more filler along that sill. It looks a bit ratty to say the least. But if the rest going backwards is good, you can patch a new bit of sill in, rather than renew the whole sill.

Much depends on your motivation and ability to weld.

Meanwhile, here's a nice pic of the front section of a newly replaced a-post, -- minus the skin and rear upright. Sorry, I've forgotten who's car this is.


Lawrence Slater

I'll correct my post before someone else does.

1st correction.
Grind off the "FRONT" fold of the skin -- where it folds towards the front wing, or just drill out the spot welds. Then grind the edge off the "REAR" fold of the skin, where it folds towards the door.

2nd correction.
Strike this, --- "And looking at that pic, I'd remove a whole lot more filler along that sill. It looks a bit ratty to say the least. But if the rest going backwards is good, you can patch a new bit of sill in, rather than renew the whole sill." ---- , since your pic is of the a-post, not the sill.

I have an appointment with the senility doctor, followed by one with specsavers. LOL.
Lawrence Slater

And, if your doing your a-posts, why not add some drains?

Try this link.
http://www2.mg-cars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgbbs&access=&mode=archiveth&subject=97&subjectar=97&thread=2013060821252817430

Or just look in the technical archive for 2013, for "A-Post drainage. Maybe B-Post too". Last post 09 June 2013.




Lawrence Slater

I'll second what Lawrence says and add a few comments.

It's unusual to see that much rust so high on the A post cover and I would recommend buying your repair panel first to mark the top edge of the repair.

Study the very informative set of picture in the link and you won't go far wrong.

If you do need to remove the full inner A post, including both hinge mountings, be sure and brace the scuttle to the inner sill/floor and triple check all measurements before fully welding in place.

Best of....
MGmike
M McAndrew

And I'll 2nd what Mike days. esp' the bit about the bracing.

How do your doors shut at the moment? Are the gaps even at the front and rear? If good, then be sure to preserve them. Else you might find yourself resorting to more drastic measures to restore them after you replace the sills/a-post.
Lawrence Slater

Or just don't go there, quit whilst you are ahead and go and buy an Audi! Not that I hate my car right now or anything... ha ha :-D

Good luck!

Malcolm.
M Le Chevalier

" ---- quit whilst you are ahead and go and buy an Audi! "

LOL.
Lawrence Slater

Many thanks for the replies gents, apologies for my own slow response. That's a very useful collection of pictures.

From what I've seen elsewhere it does seem to be an unusual place to have that much rot on the cover. Hopefully it's not too bad underneath and I may get away with just replacing the bottom door hinge section.

The door aligns ok so hopefully I don't need to destroy too much.

I'm considering teaching myself to weld since the car is a longer-term project, though there is also a bodyshop locally which I've used in the past for anything beyond my skills.
P Robson 1500

I'll be saving this threat for later!!!!

Thanks for the photo link :-)

James

http://1965mgmidgetrestoration.blogspot.co.uk/



James Paul

I trust you're enjoying all that work James? ;)
Lawrence Slater

I like the invisible bracing system. Must make it a lot easier not having extra bits of steel bar and wooden struts getting in the way! I presume its adjustable?
Guy Weller

No need for bracing Guy.

That picture shows the bit he cut off to throw away. ;).
Lawrence Slater

Hi,

Yes still enjoying the project thanks Lawrence. Just wish I could spend more time in the workshop!

It turned out that a previous owner had done some major tinkering around the sills trying to resolve the rust and the door measurements were all out so the they didn't fit properly before I started. So I took the decision to rebuild the car around the doors, following all the friendly advice here! ;-)





James Paul

Ah well winter's coming, so no excuses for being out in the fresh air James. So you can get stuck in again :).
Lawrence Slater

This thread was discussed between 30/08/2014 and 09/09/2014

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG Midget and Sprite Technical BBS is active now.