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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Adjusting handbrake

Does anyone know how to remove slack in the handbrake cable of a 1978 1500? The threaded adjuster is at its limit and the rear brake shoes are well adjusted (or as well as I can adjust them).
In the archives it is recommended that the actual rod is cut down by around half an inch. However as I do'nt have access to welding/brazing equiptment this is not really a solution.
Thanks
BH Harvey

Sounds like the inner has stretched and you have run out of adjustment. So its either a new cable, or you could use one of these cable adjusters:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Handbrake-Hand-Brake-Cable-Adjuster-Adjustor-/270827351972?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f0e916fa4

http://tinyurl.com/8264x5p
Guy

But there is no free cable to attach the cable adjustor to, I suppose I could try bending the rod.
BH Harvey

Sorry, forgetting there is less bare cable on a 1500!

Maybe you could use one of these:
http://tinyurl.com/77bz3t7

They are slotted, so you can slip them on to the cable even when the ends are fixed. The knurled adjuster is then tuned so the slots are offset and it cannot come off again. Looks like it would work, and a lot quicker than replacing the whole cable!
Guy

Thanks for the suggestion, but I just bent the rod in two places (on the same principle as the first adjustor) and it seems to have worked. Don't know how long it will last though.
Thanks
BH Harvey

Guy,
that looks a clever bit of kit, now I don't know the answer just asking, do you think it's big enough in size and strong enough for the handbrake

BH,
again I don't know the answer but wouldn't the bends eventually straighten out a bit and as I know even less about 1500s than the little I do know about 1275 is your handbrake the type that doesn't have grease nipples?
Nigel Atkins

Nigel,
Were you referring to the first or the second link I suggested? Both should be up to the job though.

The first is a type of adjuster common as original equipment on cable braked cars from the 1930s and is a well proven system. Whether current e-bay versions are as good, or made now from putty metal, I don't know.

The second type are as fitted to many British motorcyles up to the advent of hydraulic braking systems on bikes, and should certainly be up to the job for a Spridget handbrake system. It is after all rather less of a safety item than an operational brake. They fit securely too, and when adjusted they cannot come off of their own accord.

Like you though, I would have some concerns that bending the rods will provide a lasting solution. At the very least I an imagine it introducing a certain springiness to the feel of the handbrake!
Guy

I wonder if just a small pulley attached to he roof .of the tranny tunnel somehow with a spring would work....

Kind of like a fan belt self tensioner concept....not sure how to clear the driveshaft

Cause these cables sure like to streatch

Prop
and and the Blackhole Midget

The midget tunnel is exceptionally narrow, I don't think that there would be space for a pulley and spring.
BH Harvey

Guy,
yes it was the second, thanks

BH,
don't worry Prop will design for you, probably end with an umbrella handle type hadbrake lever coming out of the dash :)
Nigel Atkins

Oh

BH Harvey

I tried something similar to Guys suggestion prior to getting a new cable. It didn't work for long. The cable gets weaker as it stretches. Mine simply stretched more and after about 6 months I couldn't take up the slack. New cable is the only real solution. Your old one has been good for more than 30 years, so I reckon it's due a new one.
Lawrence Slater

BH,
I bet Prop's in his garage right now rigging up his improved handbrake off your posted diagram :)
Nigel Atkins

Before buying a new cable, check whether or not the problem is waer in the drum and linakges there. It is simple to detect: The cranked lever which protrudes from the brake backplate (and to which the cross rods attach) should be hard up against the backplate with only minimal movement before they take up.

Typically this is not the case, with the lever moving 1/2" or more before it takes up. This means that the handbrake cable etc have had to use much of their adjustment and travel in taking up this movement and gives the appearnace that the cable has stretched.

I have found that most cases of "stretched cable" are in fact down to this. In these circumstances the new cable makes little difference because the old one hadn't stretched much if at all.

BTW I assume that before you adjusted the shoes you disconnected the cable/linkage from the drum? It is impossible to adjust the shoes properly if the cable is pre-loading the shoes, and removing the clevis pin is the best way to ensure this, particularly if the cable has run out of adjustment.
Paul Walbran

I figured it out... No cable needed, and super simple

Just but a big wedged shaped rock behind the rear tire, just make sure to paint it ford blue.....now thats a cool mod

Seriously... Several years ago, there was nothing but bad cables that streatched with just little effort....i know we had nurmours discussions on those several years ago... Any one have recent insight if the cableshave been improved

Prop
and and the Blackhole Midget

Prop,
I had a new handbrake fitted nearly two years ago and it seems fine, beeter than my wife's modern car but I also had linkages and washers and bits and bobs renewed too
Nigel Atkins

This thread was discussed between 09/03/2012 and 10/03/2012

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG Midget and Sprite Technical BBS is active now.