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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - After welding...


I just wanted to ask...after welding what order of treatments would you then apply.

Have repaired a seem between two inner panels, one panel is new the other is slightly rusty.

1. Apply rust fe-123 to encapsulate the rust.
2. Paint on zinc based primer to both panels
3. Paint on chassis black
4. Apply seam sealer
5. Treat with Waxoyl

What I am trying make sure that the metal is protected as best as I can.

Is this correct or have I missed of a product or got the wrong order.

This is really for areas that will never be seen as I am planning on having the chassis blasted and primed ready for painting.

Many thanks

James Paul

Hammerite the direction id go

(Rhinno Truckbed linner)....Nahhh LoL.

Prop and the Blackhole Midget

Trouble is Prop that Hammerite now is not the same as it was 20 years ago. You can now wash your brushes in celly thinners after painting, years ago it wouldn't touch Hammerite, you had to use their special thinners.

The best rust cure I ever used was called Trustan 23, bought out by Hammerite then dropped. Although the name implied it had tannic acid in it (which it probably did) on the side of the container it said contains phosphoric acid.

I would put etch primer on top of that, then if underneath or not visible, seam sealer for joints then stonechip then topcoat.

For visible paintwork I would seam seal joints, then hi-build then topcoat.

Wish I could still buy Trustan 23. It was the bees knees or dogs dangly things.

Rob aka MG Moneypit

If rusty - kurust and then Bondo Primer, if not rusty Bondo Primer.

I got mine from here

It's an epoxy primer with added zinc.

Just remember, Hammerite rymes with sh1te.

Tech specs - I found a recommendation on a canal boat website - I challenge anybody to top that.

They reckon it was developed in the 60's for oil rigs.

Malc Gilliver

Sorry to be picky Malc, but it's Bondaprimer. Excellent stuff, been using it for years. Don't like Hammerite, it doesn't do what it says on the tin, and it's dreadful to work with, doesn't cover very well especially on sharp corners and if you dont re-coat within the allotted time the finish starts to crinkle.
It's ok coating the surfaces you can see, the problem is coating the areas you can't see. Areas that have been welded rust very quickly, and will rust through from the back of the welded area in no time. I found Supertrol an excellent product, a bit hard to find though. available in aerosols or brush or spray liquid.Great for getting into difficult areas, using the aerosol with extension tube.Available from Amazon.
Another good idea is to use weld through zinc spray on all surfaces before you start.

Well... I guess pass on the hammerite. And try something else

Id hate for someone to have a cross burnt in there front yard for having the hammerite on the garage shelving...hahaha


Prop and the Blackhole Midget

Yes, Bonda not Bondo - I'll look into the Supatrol.


Prop, Don't worry about the burning cross, anybody with Hammerite can just pour the paint on the cross and put it out - that's about all it's good for - lol
Malc Gilliver

Malc, it's SUPERTROL !-)

Hahaha... good one malc

That will teach them.

Prop and the Blackhole Midget

I've always liked Hammerite and tend to thin it down and spray it on to a good primed surface and that way it stays stuck and lasts for ages. But the price of it is a bit steep these days. I've bought a cheaper version made by Flag Paint (it's about 1/3 of the price) to prime the surface and a tin of Hammerite for the top coat - the Flag stuff is pretty good but they don't have the colour I wanted. I painted the whole of the underside with Kurust first and let it go off for a few weeks while I got on with other things - it's very thin and a small 6 pot will do the whole of the underside. Here's the first primer coat...

Nick Nakorn

This thread was discussed between 17/03/2014 and 20/03/2014

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