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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Anti Roll Bar End Stops

In the process of building my Lenham I have uprated the front anti roll bar to a 3/4" diameter one mounted in the standard location using polyurethane bushes and appropriate mounts.

As I couldn't find and end stops for a non standard bar I made my own however should they go inboard of the mounts or outboard or does it not matter - I can't make my mind up.

Gratuitous shot of the brake lines and wiring loom installed

Martyn Wilks

In my opinion (and I wait to be shot down in flames) you don't need end stops at all. My MGB with 7/8" ARB hasn't had end stops for the last 27,000 miles with no obvious detriment. Looking at the bar there is no sign of sideways movement - no wear marks outside the bushes. After all you aren't relying on the ARB to prevent lateral movement of the suspension, or if you are something is seriously wrong!
Mike Howlett

Inboard.
Gratuitous shot of my Lenham (new rolling shell to take the old body)


David Smith

which dual brake cylinders are you using?

Mine are on the inside too. But I also agree with Mike, they shouldn't be needed.
Rob Armstrong

Hi Rob, the cylinders are from OBP in Peterborough pretty much identical to Goodridge ones but at half the price, used them in single sweaters in the past with no issues.

It is so easy for me to make some stops as I have a Colchester lathe and a Bridgeport milling machine so it's just a bit of tinkering at lunch time and it costs me nothing.

I am sure I've seen some posts on here regarding polished drop links which would suggest the bar does move.

Just belt and braces
Martyn Wilks

Loving the gratuitous shots, serious car tinkerin' no G
Martyn Wilks

Thanks for the info! I think the polished drop links are as a result of wider tyres. But if they are easy to make then get them on!
Rob Armstrong

I have 175/60/13 tyres so a little wider than standard
Martyn Wilks

I ran 185/60s on the racer, with no polishing of the drop links - but I did have the end stops.

Standard bars have them on the outside IIRC.

MGB versions may fit.
Dave O'Neill 2

Martyn,
Moss did (now do?) end stops for uprated ARB. Originally I didn't have them fitted but soon learnt I needed them. I fitted them as standard to the outside as no one suggested fitting inside at the time.

Guy did recommend strengthening for the uprated ARB especially the mount plates on the chassis.

Based on David's advice I'll now put them on the inside as it's only a matter of two small screws on each.
Nigel Atkins

Make sure you re-enforce the mountings on the rails where the bar attaches or you will rip them out in a couple 100 miles

prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

I downloaded the info sheet on these and made my own to suit - the 3/4" bar was actually 18.50mm diameter.

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/collars/4351093/
Martyn Wilks

For some time I made do with suitably sized Jubilee clips mounted on the bar outside the rollbar mounts. They work perfectly well even though they don't look perfect but you have to be bending down looking to see them. Got some proper stops now but can't remember where from!

I second Props comment about reinforcing the mounts. Mine ripped off twice (one from the original spot welds and second from seam welded repair). I had the arb mounts removed and welded to some 1/8th steel plate and the whole lot welded to the bottom of the chassis rails. Seem OK now!
Chris Hasluck

I installed a big piece of right angle bolted to the bumper mounts. Arb mounts to the right angle.
Rob Armstrong

Rob

do you have a photo of that ?

Thanks

prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

Bit late now for reinforcing as the car is painted, the shell however is brand new so it shouldn't have been weakened yet by years of salt being thrown at it.
Martyn Wilks

Martyn,
You may be lucky with a new shell although I think they simply aren't up to the job if a thicker ARB is used.

When they ripped out of my car I initially replaced the bottom of the chassis extensions with new steel of the same gauge. However this also ripped out after only a few months. No track use, just lots of uneven and twisty back roads in Scotland and the Lakes. On the second repair I made up a thicker single plate to cover the base of the boxed cross section and the chassis rails together as a unit. I also added stiffening webs inside the boxed section and inside the extension pieces. It is now much stronger and its been fine ever since.
Guyw

Martyn,
I agree with the other posters to reinforce as I had a Heritage shell that need reinforcing after fitting a 11/16" ARB. I had the mounts cut out and put on thicker metal plates welded to where the previous metal was cut out. This was a few years ago and the mounts are still fine despite enthusiastic driving on the road and a few non-competitive full days on a track.

The location of standard mounts shouldn't make any real difference to a freshly sprayed up Spridget.
Nigel Atkins

Martyn

if you dont want to reinforce...then stay with the orginal size....thats your best option

its not wear tear and time... its just the forces being applied to the weaker metal are more then the mounts can with stand

the archives have lots of horror stories concerning this and how many of us have over came nd fixed

my favorite is gryf ketcherside's solution... rather involved but looked factory orginal when it was completed

prop

Prop and the Blackhole Midget

Prop - full details are in the archives - hunt for "Adjustable anti roll (sway) bar"
Posted 20 September 2014 " In fact, I've awakened it for you.

It has pictures in it that I can't seem to find on my computer any more.

Completely bolt on and therefore removable if concourse judges are coming.

Mine have withstood a very large amount of abuse (can just see them below the stripes on the valance in this pic)


Rob Armstrong

This thread was discussed between 22/08/2016 and 24/08/2016

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG Midget and Sprite Technical BBS is active now.