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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Ashley Hinton heater tap

Anyone else recently had problems with a new Ashley Hinton heater tap (88G588), am I truly the first to send one back (and still have a problem with its replacement)?
Nigel Atkins

No I bought one a few years ago and it fell apart on its first outing
Dominic Clancy

I have a good, used, original one for sale, if anyone is interested?
Dave O'Neill 2

Hi Dave, does it leak do you know and does it have the shim/washer for later heater, cheers?
Nigel Atkins

I suspected the two I've received recently weren't the only ones to leak but perhaps others haven't noticed a leak as it's not always obvious and those that have noticed put up with it and/or don't return the faulty item.

I've had previous taps that leak so got an Ashley Hinton one that lasted about 10 years so I went back to him but other than sending me a replacement that also leaked and suggesting problems on my car that might cause his item to leak I've not found him over helpful as a manufacturer/supplier.
Nigel Atkins

I'll have to report back on whether my new Moss one is ok. It's fitted and seems ok but will be a few weeks before the big start up!
John Payne

The leak on my current one appears to be noticeable when the tap is closed, as photo, which is unfortunate as this is most of the time, also note the rust on top of the thumbwheel (altho' it looks yellow in this photo).



Nigel Atkins

Rust? - incorrect materials then, not OEM. The thumbwheel should be Mazak (or do I mean Zamak?) and the centre shaft, washer and nut should be brass.
David Smith

I've got the old type with the Mazak wheel. It started to leak, so Steve Kiel refurbed it for me. I keep it open all the time to avoid hotspots on number four cylinder and control the heat with the heater tube flap.
It would be good if there was some way of bypassing the matrix but still maintaining flow through the head without turning off the tap on the head. Has anyone done this, if so how did you do it?
b higginson

David, I thought of it as rust from the metal washer but perhaps I should look harder, I think there's more 'rust' staining in that photo than before.

I think the centre shaft is brass (looking/colour).

When I got the car it had a more original looking tap but it leaked.

The Ashley Hinton tap that lasted ten years had a different brass (looking) thumbwheel and brass (looking) nut without a washer.
Nigel Atkins

Bernie
Why would you want to bypass the matrix. Keeping the tap open and closing the flap up stream of the fan and closing the flaps in the foot well should keep most of the heat out the cockpit on a warm day.
If you are keeping the tap open all the time - which is best - the more its fiddled with the more likely it is to leak - then why not dispose of it altogether, replacing it with a suitable elbow.
I've removed the heater set up entirely, turning the tap through 180 degrees and connecting it back up with the original hose.
Regards
Stuart


S G Macfarlane

I've had the heater tap closed for the vast majority of the 12 years of ownership, so what evidence of hotspots should I look for or have?

We sometimes have the heater tap open in the winter but my passenger's feet can get too hot or if the roof is raised and both footwell flaps closed my forehead gets too hot.

For example, going to and from the NEC in November my wife would sooner have a blanket around her legs than have the heat on her feet, I only turn the heater on for my SBDR passengers as I have the roof down (that's when I remember).
Nigel Atkins

I just leave my tap open and use the flaps and fan to control the internal temp. saves all that fiddling and less risk of a leak.
Bob Beaumont

You can delete the heater and use a blanking plate on the block (http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Engine/Cylinder_heads/Head_components/2A180.aspx?100402&ReturnUrl=/shop/classic/Cooling~heating.aspxBack%20to%20shop

http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Cooling_heating/Heating/Valves/88G221.aspx?070103&ReturnUrl=/product/Classic/Engine/Cylinder_heads/Head_components/2A180.aspxBack%20to)

But better, apparently for reasons of hot spot at No4 cylinder bore, is to use a take-off and hose: http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Cooling_heating/Heating/Valves/12G2534.aspx?070103&ReturnUrl=/product/Classic/Cooling_heating/Heating/Valves/88G221.aspxBack%20to

http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Cooling_heating/Heating/Valves/88G221.aspx?070103&ReturnUrl=/product/Classic/Engine/Cylinder_heads/Head_components/2A180.aspxBack%20to

I can,t remember where and how to fit the new hose into at the front of the engine.

This mod is used on racers.

Cheers
Mike
M Wood

PS for a road car I would keep the extra cooling capacity of a heater matrix with the tap open and water circulating. AND using the car regularly and flushed according to Nigel's method and serviced according to the good book

Mike
M Wood

Mike you are a true good disciple, you will be rewarded in the next life.

The cylinder head take off has "for use with the larger 5/8" hose" are the hoses on ours 1/2" or am I remembering wrong as usual?


Nigel Atkins

Mike you are a true good disciple, you will be rewarded in the next life.

The cylinder head take off has "for use with the larger 5/8" hose" are the hoses on ours 1/2" or am I remembering wrong as usual?

(and you reminded me to measure a hose for Peter)



Nigel Atkins

Bernie, talk to Mike Bennett about this. He used a Ford Fiesta heater valve which is electrically operated with two in and two out pipes. When off the water bypasses the heater matrix and still returns to the head. He did this on a Mini inside near the heater so it was hidden. The in/out pipe spacing was very close to that on the Mini heater. Not sure how you would do it on a midget but it is do-able. Rob
MG Moneypit

Nigel

This is disappointing as the Ashely Hinton tap was the one that seemd to widely considered as of suitable quality (I.e not fail quickly).

Mike
M Wood

Yes, the previous one, before the two recent faulty taps, lasted 10 years.

If mine is the 1st he's had back then that's fair enough for the questioning and suggesting that it might be my heating/cooling system at fault, the pressure cap, stat and possible hgf.

After I explained how I look after the heating/cooling system and replacement dates of cap and stat and checking for hgf and asked what I should do next the replies stopped. Now he may not have got my last communication but it was sent in the same way as the others that did get replies.

For some time he's been producing more parts in stainless steel perhaps he finds more profit and less hassle in producing and selling these.

I'm fed up with dealing with and complaining about faulty parts.
Nigel Atkins

This thread was discussed between 13/05/2019 and 20/05/2019

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

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