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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Bayonet LEDs

Chaps

My lamps and indicators are not the brightest - especially at the rear. Thinking of substituting the standard filament lamps with bayonet LEDs. Never tried them before - thoughts welcome.... Seems to be a few on the usual websites...any modifications required or just a straight swap?
Oggers

I bought some stop/tail led bulbs at NEC in November. Straight swap, brighter and less current through the brake light switch. I didn't get the indicator bulbs because they require a different flasher unit.
The bulbs I bought were only £2.50 each, so we'll see if they are value for money in due course. I bought 4 just in case.

Bernie.
b higginson

As Bernie has put the bulbs themselves are just a straight swap but you need to consider your type of flasher unit and if you have a hazard unit too.

As with the standard bulbs the tail/brake bulbs have offset pins so (I guess) it is possible to install them the wrong way round so that one or both are dimmer when braking.

Warm-white bulbs look better where clear glass lenses are used such as front side and number plate.

The colour of the lens dictates the colour of bulb you need - amber, red, white.

It's best to use LED in full sets i.e. front and rear sidelights, indicators and dash tell-tale lights.

LEDs will tend to show up if there are other problems in the wiring, switches, connections and earths.

Not all bulbs are made equally (same as with oil, petrol, ect.) so cheapest isn't always best buy.

These two suppliers and their products are good and their web sites should tell you all you need to know.

Classic Car LEDs (also trade on ebay) - https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/

Classic Dynamo & Regulator Conversions - http://www.dynamoregulatorconversions.com/

And Oggers I'm sure you'd be delighted to know that the use of LEDs on the road could be illegal in some circumstances, well in England at least perhaps it doesn't apply north of the (mainland) border and it'll all be sorted for the better after the European divorce, unless you have to sell the car or they get it (as I hear from so many bitter men, I prefer a light ale myself).
Nigel Atkins

It's the indicators which are the most feeble.....flasher unit is standard as far as I know....
Oggers

Oggers,
why not first try cleaning and checking all wires, connections, bulbs, switches and earths are all clean, secure and protected. You'll need it with LEDs anyway and a different flasher unit for appropriate flasher rate. Don't forget the dash tell-tale bulbs, lenses and connectors.

Cleaning the earth connections, lenses inside and out will also possibly help with the front sidelights and rear tail/brake lights.

Also cleaning the reflectors, but don't polish them, I made that mistake and the bulbs can gain a surprising amount of brightness. You'd be surprised how much muck and dust can get inside especially after respray/repair work.

Cleaning the column stalk connections with electric contact cleaner or switch cleaning lubricant (but probably not WD40) might help and again help with dip/main/flash if that's on the stalk too.

(Just as one example) - Servisol Super 10 Switch Contact Cleaner - http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1323667.pdf

Replacing any poor quality connectors and wire ends can also make a difference.

For filament bulbs, if you've got an original bi-metallic flasher unit then don't replace it with a rubbish modern made one just clean the connection on and to it.

You could also check the flasher unit is (colour) wired correctly to the markings on it, I'm not sure what odds that makes but you'd think it'd be marked for a reason and best to stick with convention to save confusion now and later.

It's not heavy, macho mechanics or engineering but cleaning and lubing is at the heart of much effective servicing, maintenance and repairs.

Let us know how you get on, good luck.


Nigel Atkins

Compatible flasher unit for LEDs is bobbins from Fleabay. Bayonet type LEDs are about 3 quid each.

Not fussed about the dashboard as I hardly ever drive at night.


Think I may give it a try....
Oggers

Oggers, you should try night driving with all the dashboard lights switched off. Nothing better on a fast open road and driving, up and down through the gears just on the feel and sound of the engine. Best on a summers' night though!
HNY !
GuyW

I wasn't thinking of dial lights but the dash indicator tell-tale lights, thinking of a full set, i.e four external bulbs and two on the dash.

I can't say if the flasher unit for bobbins and £3 bulbs you're looking at are the best thing since sliced bread or low quality but I do see where some say the LED bulbs are not good and don't last and I suspect they've bought "cheap".

Wasting more digit skin I'll put I should have also put to check and clean (if required) the fuse box connections and even perhaps the fuse going back to the battery clamps, posts and earth, do it once a decade or so in normal conditions.

If you buy cheap and they work (and last) then let us know as none of us really want to waste money.

Cheers.

Nigel Atkins

Guy

I can assure you that my dashboard lights are so utterly feeble that it would not make much difference. Add to that, my tachometer does not work anyways - needs the innards sorting due to requiring the feed from the ECU. Also the odometer is 25% shy due to it not being calibrated to the T9 gearbox. So I do drive by the seat of my kilt - so to speak.

Driving without the headlamps would be much more of challenge. Mind even at 2300 on mid-summer night, you may not actually need them up here....

HNY to you too.....

Oggers

ETA:
I tried a set of two "cheap" (interior, festoon) LED bulbs and they were a total waste of money, time and effort - an exercise of total instant disposability.

(bl**dy spellchecker kept arguing about the spelling of disposability and I thought I'd got it wrong)
Nigel Atkins

I by-passed the dashlight switch (to use it as a map reading lamp switch) but the dial lights were no brighter. The inside of the dials, particularly it seems speeedo and tacho, rust from wet/condensation so without painting the inside a bulb light can't reflect its light across the gauge.

My speedo needle was 25% out with the T9 but the mileage was only 20% out (well about 18% IIRC).
Nigel Atkins

if your dashboard lights are dim, try some LED replacements. They brightened up my dash :)
C MADGE

Hi,
Just visiting your site from the MGB site. LED replacement bulbs made a great difference to the instrument lighting as per attached where you can see the comparison between the right two instruments (LED) & the left still with the old bulbs in during changing them over.
You can get shorter LED bulbs that negate the need (in my car) to remove the green filter within the guage - using warm white bulbs results in the colour of green being retained,but brighter!
Cheers
Charles


Charles9

Hi Charles,
that looks great.

No worry of filters for us as Spridgets don't have such luxury and sophistication as green dial illumination. :)

However we could use green LED bulbs to get the same effect - (18mm long) https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/collections/dashboard-gauge-bulbs-1/products/glb987-e10mes-green-8-smd-led-flat-bulbs-dashboard-gauge-lighting

I must admit the dash bulbs I got were one SMD (and the can reflectors are probably rusted) so I could get brighter results with brighter LEDs.

Nigel Atkins

Whoops - I meant the green bulbs might give a similar effect if they're not too bright.
Nigel Atkins

This thread was discussed between 31/12/2018 and 02/01/2019

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

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