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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Bonnet Catch

Morning
I replaced my Bonnet release cable yesterday. All went very well - surprisingly. An issue I've had and still have is the bonnet is difficult to shut, when shut can pop up at random. It's always been like that. Having replaced the cable I though I'd try and sort that. Ran out of time & daylight yesterday.
Does the bonnet catch - the bit on the bonnet with the spring have any adjustment.
The release mechanism is fine, opens & closes exactly as it should do
Regards
Nigel Axtell
Nigel Axtell

Yes it does, its really a bolt threaded into the bonnet with a locknut that gives adjustment.
Slacken the locknut, in your case I would guess you need to unwind the centre portion a turn or maybe two, lock up the nut and test for that satisfying clunk/click !

If its too slack the bonnet can rattle a bit - try pulling it up and down a bit after you think the adjustment is set.

R.
richard b

Yes it does have adjustment , there is a locknut up against the bonnet inside the spring , if you loosen this the post can be screwed in or out as there should be a slot for a screwdriver in the cone . You then retighten the lock nut . Sorry difficult to describe.
You may however just find there is excessive wear in the cone or sliding catch . They’re not too expensive to replace
Mike Fairclough

Brilliant. Thanks for the quick replies
Nigel Axtell

Also check that the cone/spring part is entering the latch centrally. It is possible to re-align by loosening the three nuts and bolts holding it to the slam panel.
Dave O'Neill 2

Sorry to hijack the thread...

Is there an adjustment on the rubber bump stops at the front of the bonnet ? The front of the bonnet sits too low on one side and the front is 1/4 inch below the front of the wing.

I ran out of time to investigate further yesterday.
Chris Madge

Cheers Dave.

Chris, is your's a 1500. I don't remember seeing Rubber bump stops on mine - must look tonight
Nigel Axtell

There were two different versions of bump stops fitted to the bonnet.

According to Moss, the change point was GAN6-183740.

The earlier one is item number 4 and the later one is number 6. Both are adjustable.


Dave O'Neill 2

ETA: Dave has provided more clarity to my post (as normal I was still typing mine while he posted).

Nigel, Chris,
I was going to suggest that Nigel also checks and if required adjust the bonnet buffers that close against the slam panel and hold the bonnet front, acting as feet and anti-vibration pads.

Two sorts, one is a screw with large rubber padded head plus lock nut to hold its position, other is just a literally threaded rubber foot that screws itself into the bonnet front. Easy to tell which you need by the large thread to the bonnet for the later.

Nigel,
you may find it best to get the bonnet level with the buffers first and then adjust the catch's pin to match - but do remember to allow for the depression and bounce return of the bonnet height when you shut the bonnet, i.e. allow the bonnet to go down enough to engage the catch, and to allow the catch to be release when you pull the cable, otherwise you will get the bonnet shut but not open again from the cable pull in the cabin.
Nigel Atkins

Yes mines a 1500. Its a 1975, so one of the first which shares some of the 1275 parts that were changed on the later 1500s.

Thanks for the replies, that is good to know as I was wondering how I was going to sort that out.

I have run out of the side to side adjustment of the rear edge of the bonnet. Even with enlarging the holes in the hinges I could still do with a further 1/8 inch movement. Is there scope to move the hinges relative to the bulk head ?

I'm repairing A pillars at the moment so bonnet, wing and door gaps are a concern right now.

Chris Madge

Chris,
have a look for Guy's explanation of placing washers between the bonnet hinges and bonnet to adjust alignment, the four, on each side, set screws.

The positioning of the washers is anti-intuitive but easier to understand once done - but I'll not be able to give a clear written illustration so leave it with Guy's.

Also do bear in mind these changeover points (if accurate anyway) are for original parts and may differ as with the usual variances of the passing of time.
Nigel Atkins

The bonnet hinges are fitted into the boxes in the bulkhead, so no room for movement. There aren't any spacers to adjust.
Dave O'Neill 2

Other end Dave.
Nigel Atkins

Nigel, I see you are referencing an explanation of mine from some while ago. I presume you found it in the archive somewhere but I have no idea how to locate it again.

That apart, my advice on adjustment by use of spacing washers under the hinge plate is only to raise or lower the rear edge of the bonnet by small amounts relative to the scuttle. It doesn't adjust for side to side location of the bonnet which is what I think Chris is asking about.

At least on some versions of these cars there are stepped rubber blocks set into the rain gutter on either side which do help to align the bonnet betwen the wings.
GuyW

Yes Guy I was referring to side to side movement.
So if there’s no scope to move hinges relative to firewall I probably need to bend them slightly.......
Chris Madge

This reminds me of a mate that was having problems with getting the bonnet of IIRC an 1960s Oldsmobile to fit down correctly to the scuttle, he and his helper dropped the hinges as far as they could but couldn't get the fit right. He came over and consulted my neighbour and I popped round and had a look and nothing obvious initially so he went off and later I realised it was an over centre hinge arrangement and it wasn't going over centre so I suggested they raise the hinge body mount and when they did it all worked. Counter intuitively by raising the hinge mount on the body it went over centre and pulled the bonnet down to the correct position.
David Billington

Chris, does your car have the stepped blocks in the bonnet gutter channels at either side? My 1500 had two on each side, one pair quite near to the rear edge of the bonnet. I don't know if this was as factory or not. My '71 car just has a single pair about mid-way down the bonnet.
GuyW

Sorry Guy's washer info should have been for Nigel.

I didn't look it up it was just in my mind as I recently noticed a washer missing from the hinge on my midget.

The bonnet buffers at the side on the wings are I think one each side with the holes already there about midway on both models, but I might be wrong, I don't think they'd help for Chris.
Nigel Atkins

Guy

The gutter channels are devoid of anything. Although I do recall seeing some holes which must be for the buffers. I didnt realise they were a thing until now! Every day is a school day. :)

My replacement wing also came with a rubber strip (a bit like a door seal) that was attached to the outer edge of the gutter channel. Is this a thing on the Midget? I cant see any reference to it in the Moss parts catalogue.

Chris Madge

Chris, the buffers should definately be there. They may well be sufficient to get your bonnet to align centrally. I have a spare unused one somewhere that you are welcome to though they cannot cost much. But its not doing anything here. It came as one of what was supposed to be a set of 4 bonnet buffers for my frogeye and I didn't notice it was wrong.

As to the other seal, I don't think they ever had one there as standard, though I have seen some other cars fitted with one. And I have a similar seal that came off a Fiesta that I have fitted along the gutter edge across the rear of the bonnet.

Incidentally when refitting your wings pay attention to the corners where the side and back gutters meet. There is often a gap here which in heavy weather allows water to overflow onto the top of the footwell lids from where it will then drip through onto your feet. Unpleasant and not easily diagnosed as the source of water drips inside the car. Seal the joint with seam sealer or fabricate a little connecting piece so that the gutters are continuous at the bonnet corners.
GuyW

No seals on the wing channels.
Dave O'Neill 2

I've seen Spridgets copy the idea from Bs of a rear lip seal and even following round on the wings at the rear.
Nigel Atkins

Chris,

If you need a pair of the buffers that screw into the bonnet front edge like item 4 in diagram D'O posted I can let you have a new set (I think Guy was offering the wing channel one ?)
Mine being a Heritage shell required the later rubber screw in ones (part 6 in the pic).
richard b

All of this makes me want to seriously consider making the bonnet and wings one assembly ala frogeye and front hinge the whole assembly.
Stan Kowznofski

Thanks for all the replies gentlemen :)

Richard - my bonnet has the front bump stops, so I think I'm good. Thanks for the offer though.


Guy - both my 1500 front wings, including my spare have holes for the bump stops about 2/3rds of the way up towards the rear. This seems to be the standard configuration for the 1500. From your description it sounds like they can help align the bonnet to the wings? Thanks for the offer, but as Moss is local to me I'll add them to my shopping list the next time I'm in there.
Chris Madge

My late (1979) 1500 had 4 of them bit I don't know if that was original
GuyW

This thread was discussed between 11/11/2019 and 13/11/2019

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

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