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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Brake Bleeding

What do you think? If I replace a front brake hose at the calliper, is air likely to get all the way through the system or can I just bleed that particular leg? Loss kept to a minimum during the changover.
Presumably the air, introduced at thew low point, will work its way up the pipe towards the master cylinder. Can it make its way into the associated pipework or can I blow it all out back down the same line.
It's just that crawling underneath trying to get at all four bleed points is not the most entertaining jobs on the car.
G Williams (Graeme)

Just bleed that leg Graeme. Test pedal. If it feels all right go for a test and see. I have done mine half and half (front left alone and back tweeked at unions) with easibleed and been fine.
Dave Squire (1500)

PS I have a good handbrake if all fails by the way.
Dave Squire (1500)

I always cover the master cylinder top with cling film and put the cap back on - helps control loss etc.

richard boobier

Before you start, top the brake reservoir up to the brim, cover the aperture with a piece of polythene and screw the top back on. Do the job, having first made sure that the bleed nipple is free and not seized. Put a one man bleed tube on the nipple and open it half a turn. Remove polythene and pump the pedal four or five times. This will expell any air and bring the fluid back to the correct level.

b higginson

Did the cover on the reservoir bit. I use Eesibleed - have done for years and find it does the job although I do chuck a towel over it in case a pipe comes off!

It's just that bleeding all four legs uses a lot of wasted fluid. And if there is actually no air present, you keep going for longer because you wonder if it hasn't quite worked its way out yet!
G Williams (Graeme)

This thread was discussed on 16/03/2013

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

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