MG-Cars.net

Welcome to our resource for MG Car Information.

Recommendations

Parts

MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Brake Master Cylinder Resleeved

Hello:

I had my dual line master brake cylinder re-sleeved last week. Today, I put it back on the car and the front brakes could be bled smooth & easy. Nice long, smooth brake pedal strokes plus plenty of fluid out the bleeder screws on the front calipers. However, NOTHING comes out either of the rear wheel cylinders – no air – no fluid – zilch!

I used a short section of brake line to “bench bleed” the master cylinder using shortened brake lines that pointed right back into the plastic reservoir after I mounted it in the pedal box BEFORE I connected the original steel brake lines.

What seemed strange was that the front line put fluid back into the reservoir after just a few pedal pumps while the line closest to the firewall [I am guessing that would be the rear wheels...] just moved some air and minimal fluid. That should have been the red flag but I connected the steel lines with the final result of no air or fluid out the rear cylinders. What seems even more bizarre is the reduced length of travel and feel of the brake pedal while trying to bleed the rear wheel cylinders.

Any suggestions to try any tricks to move some brake fluid to the rear wheels? Plan “B” is to remove the master cylinder and send it back to the rebuilder and hope for the best…Is it possible that the small drain hole in the plastic reservoir might be plugged by debris?

Do these symptoms appear to be consistent with a “basic blunder” by the rebuilder?

Thanks for any insight into this problem...

Mike P.
Buffalo, NY
Mike Pelone

congrats on the resleeve,

you might research the brass bias valve, it may need resetting or repair if the O rings have parrished

Also look to the manual, I think you have to bleed the brakes from furthest out 1st working inward...

if no fluid can be pushed thur by other means then the new master to the rear wheels...you may need a new hose as they can look good outside but be collapsed on the inside



I wish I could offer more But I dumpped my brake system several years ago and never regretted not looking back

but others will be able to help

Prop
Prop

The Haynes manual says to bleed the back brakes first, on the dual-line system.
David Smith

I use part of old bike inner tube: one end sealed; other attached to m/c filler with jubilee clip; and pump a couple of psi into it until fluid emerges.

Make sure m/c is full of fluid at start and beware of letting too much fluid escape at the other end in case you empty the m/c.

Use this on brakes and clutch...

A
Anthony Cutler

This thread was discussed on 02/08/2010

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG Midget and Sprite Technical BBS is active now.