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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Brake Pedal
|I run a Mk111 midget with a Tandem master cylinder and a PDWA Valve assy, Brembo grooved discs and competition pads and shoes.|
My problem is that I can't get a good pedal even when the brakes are hot and working.
Is there a technique in bleeding these brakes as I've tried all the conventional methods.
|Now thats a set up. Nice|
What I do is get clear vynial tubeing and attach it to the bleed valve and stick the other end into the brake reservoir and just pump slowly and watch for all the air bubbles to escape by watching the clear tubing
Also try some ptfe tape on the brake caliper zerk... they tend to wear the threads overbtime and get a little sloppy when bleeding
Are you sure you have the bias adjusted correctly its 90 /10 to 85/15 front to back
|Prop and the Blackhole Midget|
|Peter a soft pedal is very common with that setup, which is why one or two racers have tried and junked it (spinner and me to name a couple).|
So what do you use?
I have to stay standard for historics to keep in period.
|I've got a 3-cylinder pedal box from Classic Car Clinic (Netherlands). I thought the tandem cyl with PDWA was USA-spec on 1500s - not what I call period, where do you compete and who with?|
|This system came into the UK 1978, up to now no one's questioned it so want to keep it.|
The three cylinder pedal box in not allowed in historic rallying.
I am going to use it for sprints later this year when I get the time.
|you may well be better off with the earlier single cyl, and a Mini rear pressure limiting valve tucked away down the back of the tunnel. You certainly will have a firmer pedal.|
This thread was discussed between 11/07/2014 and 12/07/2014
This thread is from the archive. The Live MG Midget and Sprite Technical BBS is active now.