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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Brake Pressure Warning Light Switch Removal
Does anyone have any tips & tricks when removing the Brake Pressure Warning Light switch on the dashboard? Is there any advantage of removing the larger speedo and tach gauges to get better access from either side?
Also, does that funky spring retainer get released from the bottom or top side? I don’t have a replacement for that spring retainer – so I want to proceed with caution on this one. It appears that the purple power lead is missing from the back of my switch so it’s time to remove it and solve the power supply problem.
And lastly – any tips to getting the retaining spring back on while lying on your back looking up with a flashlight? This is not a minor repair that I am looking forward to...
Mike “Gumby” P.
|I find removal of the drivers seat greatly reduces the contortion required to work in that area. It's definitely worth the few extra minutes it takes. |
|You may end up removing the bolts holding the steering colume and lowering it. Then you should be able to reach up and fiddle the switch.|
|definitely remove the entire steering column, that frees up a lot of access space, and you may want to remove the driver's seat, as already mentioned.|
The metal clip unhooks from the bottom, and then is lifted up and out of the top of the switch, then the switch can be pushed out of the dash (there are a few little "detent" tabs molded into the switch housing that release when you press out the switch out).
By the way, I don't know if replacement switches are available new yet, but I cleaned mine up and painted it semi gloss black and it looks very factory like that. I've never seen one yet that still had the chrome on it, and the material the switch was made out of fades to such an ugly color. Nothing worse than a nicely restored midget with that horrible, worn out looking thing right in the middle of the dash.
|here's a photo of what one looks like after it has been disassembled, painted and re-installed (attached).|
Note, this photo was taken about 15 or more years after I did that, and it still looks like "new" (not that you can say the same for the rest of the car at the point this photo was taken last year!).
I have removed the driver's seat for other reasons, and always find that re-fitting the seat tracks and 4 bolts thru the floorpan is always a fiddly experience. Dropping the steering column might free up a few inches easier...
I did scrounge up another switch as part of a daashboard purchase, and have been practicing removing and installing the retaining spring before venturing into the deep (and darker...) waters of under dash maneuvers.
For what it's worth...here is a picture of the wiring connections behind the switch. I can see the two B/W wires connected to the brass pressure switch attached to the inner fender on the passenger side and my lack of a purple connection is the real underlying problem to solver since I have no current thru the rocker switch at this time. I can see several purple wires that meter "hot" when the key is turned under the dash since my radio unit was botched by the previous owner...
Thanks for the suggestions, etc.
|ahhh, in that case, it sounds like you've solved your problem: restore the missing purple power feed and all should be well.|
All of the wires in the car that are colored purple are hot all of the time & fused (fed from the same fuse that also powers the horn, the lighter and interior lights).
This thread was discussed on 05/09/2010
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