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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Can't get the key out
I recently brought home a 76 midget (USA MODEL)that was partially restored 10 years ago. Actually, it was totally restored, but not put back together. That's my job! Since I did not take it apart and nothing is labeled, this sometimes creates "issues". Right now my new issue is I cannot get the key out of the ignition. I followed the instructions on the steering column telling me to put the key on 1 (where it remains)push the metal button on the bottom and then turn the key to 0 and remove. The key will not turn at all when I push the button. I tried moving the steering wheel to various positions, but this did not help. Do I need to have the battery hooked up to get the key out or what? This blog is great. Thanking all the contributors .....AL |
AL MILLER |
More important question! Whats with people and keys that live in Fla. that own midgets ....LOL Sorry Phil....I still think about your adventure...LOL Prop |
SheBoyGan5 from Prop |
My '78 did that from time to time when I first brought it home...the last time it stuck, I soaked it down with WD40 (as much as I could spray in past the key) & kept working and wiggling the key until the button worked & the key came out. Now I spray some key lube with graphite in it as maintenance... no problems for 3 months. Sounds too simple, but it worked for me. Good luck, Dave |
DL Rhine |
Dave, I just gave it a shot and it released. Thanks. I thought of that at the start but did not want to mess up any of the electrical contacts. Just pulled out the dash today. Hard telling if I am making progress or going backwards! |
AL MILLER |
Al, Where in Florida are you? We have some realy good British car shows coming up this fall. I live in the Jupiter(Tequesta)area. Phil |
Phil |
Al Don't be afraid of WD40! It's saved my butt quite afew times...also works great on wet & condensated distributor caps. Dave |
DL Rhine |
Odd, I've got a '78, but it doesn't have the key release button. (Thank goodness.) -:G:- |
Gryf Ketcherside |
I don't like it...took me awhile to figure out what it was! When replacement time comes, I'll try get one without it. Dave |
DL Rhine |
Hi Al, sad word of warning - when the key gets stuck like that it's usually an early sign of impending disaster (when mine went the chap told me they replace one a week at my local mg specialist). Personally, I'd fit a new steering lock. Incidentaly, WD40 won't hurt your electrics (in another life I used to do their advertising!) Regards Andy Frog Hollow |
A S Duff |
Thanks for all your feedback. Hopefully it was stuck because of non use for 10 years and it will not self destruct soon. Phil - I am down in Miami ....AL |
AL MILLER |
After I flooded everything with WD40 the key still had "issues". Thus, since just about everything else on the car was in pieces, I decided to tinker. The 2 black plastic pieces on the steering column came off easy as did the ignition mechanism. The wiring all unplugged and thus I had the entire switch in my hand. There was only one small screw holding the wiring harness assembly to the lock mechanism which removed easy. No springs flying out yet. To my surprise there was no problem with the key now with the wiring and contacts removed! The problem was all in the contact mechanism. Why stop now! I carefully pried it apart and found 2 balls, 4 small springs and 2 copper contacts. I cleaned everything in brake cleaning and put it all back together. Same problem ...did not want to turn. Thus, took all apart again and this time greased it up ...all except the copper to copper. That seemed to do it. It turns very good now. I would guess that many other switches are just like mine ...in need of grease......AL |
AL MILLER |
Good work Al. I drive thru Miami about every 2-3 weeks on the way to the Keys. I don't get to far from the Tpk. My son is at FL Keys Comm. College in Key West. Maybe I'll see you at a show sometime. There is a group that drives up to Boca every February. Phil |
Phil |
Now take it apart again and grease the copper bits - that's how they come from the factory. Best to use OxGard, a special grease for electrical contacts. Get at hardware stores and such in the house electrical wiring department. Use it on ALL electrical connections, especially harness connectors and plugs. Prevents oxidation, corrosion, and greatly helps things out. Also carefully check, clean, and lube the button, steering lock bolt, and the associated area for casting flash, debris, etc. These frequently cause sticky locks. Locks that don't freely return to RUN from START are the cause of the death of many starters and some wiring meltdowns. FRM |
FR Millmore |
If I had to go through all that, I think I'd just go ahead & replace the switch...why take a chance, the ignition switch doesn't work in the door or trunk locks anyway...I'd prefer not to get stranded for an easily replaceable component that already I know is suspect! |
DL Rhine |
Ah, but Dave, the problems are not all or even mostly in the switch, but in the rest of that nonsense. FRM |
FR Millmore |
THANKS ALL FOR YOUR INPUT .....AL |
AL MILLER |
FR True! Dave |
DL Rhine |
This thread was discussed between 18/09/2009 and 24/09/2009
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