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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Clutch issues
|Engaging gears was becoming increasingly difficult.
Efforts to cure initially concentrated on bleeding the clutch system, including adopting Lawrence Slater's remote bleeder idea and then on the slave cylinder, even fabricating an adjustable push rod.
Slight improvements were made but it was still very difficult to cleanly engage any gear.
Focus shifted after remembering (becoming less common) contributors on here discussing pedal wear.
Removing the pedal box cover and watching whilst the beautiful assistant operated the clutch pedal revealed a lot of slack in the pedal and master cylinder cylinder assembly.
The photo shows the old pin, clearly worn out as the two grooves demonstrate.
Replacement made a significant improvement but there was still slack before any engagement (presuming an elongated hole in the clutch pedal arm). Not wanting to disassemble the pedal assembly, a 'bush' was fabricated and has taken up the slack so gear engagement is restored. A temporary fix but enough to make the car useable until a more permanent solution is made.
Has anyone enlarged the hole in the pedal to take a bush or is the consensus to weld it up and drill it back to the original size?
|I would weld it and re-drill it.|
|Dave O'Neill 2|
|I drilled the clutch and brake pedal bushes and fitted grease nipples to each.|
|Interesting Guy, did you fit grease nipples to the brake pedal (20) to lubricate the bushes (21) and the bolt (22)?|
I was thinking of drilling the brake pedal at the end/top (where it connects with the master cylinder pushrod (43)), where the hole is out of shape to take a small oilite bush. What do you think?
|Jeremey, yes to 20,21/22|
Both my pedals had sized to the pivot shaft so that was my response.
Never thought about putting a bush at the top eye. I think it would be quite fiddly to do. I think mine had gone oval but I filled it with weld and redrilled it. Answer is probably more regular lubrication though. 😁
thanks. That's a neat solution to a rusted bolt, you've made me think mine needs oiling.
My welder is both ancient and hasn't been used in decades so will need refurbishment before use and it doesn't seem worth the effort and expense for such a small job.
A local mechanic may fill it for me but I was looking for an alternative to do at home.
The fabricated bush is made from a slice from a tin of tuna so we'll see how long it lasts. I'm not holding my breath (and it's not because of any fishy smell).
|I guess another possibility would be to drill out the hole to the next oversize and use a larger cotter pin. But maybe theres a concern there over weakening it? I dont know.|
|I'm not sure if there's enough metal there for a bush.|
We did a similar 'repair' on a friend's car at the Nuburgring, using a strip cut from a Coke can. Other carbonated drinks are available.
|Dave O'Neill 2|
|Guy I did think about drilling out the hole to a larger size but it means drilling both arms of the pushrod to match.|
Dave how long did the repair last do you remember? I was maybe thinking now of a top hat bush as there is a small gap between the pushrod arms and pedal.
It lasted the race, at least. I assume it was repaired properly when it got home.
|Dave O'Neill 2|
|Very neat Guy, like the way they're pointing upwards for easier maintenance too.|
Thanks Dave, it'll be interesting to see how long tuna tins last compared to fizzy pop ones.
This thread was discussed on 01/09/2020
This thread is from the archive. The Live MG Midget and Sprite Technical BBS is active now.