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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Clutch pedal tracel.

Morning gentlemen,
Doris was coming along nicely until the head gasket give up the ghost. Anyway, up and running again.

Problem or call it niggle, is that theres very little travel on the clutch pedal. Its practally into the carpet to dis-engauge clutch. Its bled to death.
Q. What can i do to get the pedal to dis engauge the clutch before hitting the carpet ? Longer rod ?

Any suggestions chaps ?

A pic. of a clutch pedal is not going to help whatsoever so heres a pic. of Doris at present :)

Regards Gary

Co Durham.

ps Anyone local or passing through always welcome to drop in for a coffee and banter !
G Bewick

Have you got the correct slave cylinder and pushrod length for your car (7/8 or 1" bore, 69mm or 75mm length I think). Is the clutch fork properly located (bushing and bolt not worn). Is the master pushrod and pedal in good shape (not worn oval). Has the footwell panel been replaced - is it in the correct position!!
You shouldnt need to lengthen the pushrod. It is self adjusting for wear of the release bearing. Lengthening it could cause clutch damage

S G Macfarlane

New correct slave, new correct 1275 pushrod, new fork positioned correctly, new CRB and new clutch. Footwell panel not replaced but pedal assembly been off body along with masters.
G Bewick

Depending on the year of your car, some used an adjustable pushrod at the master cylinder. If yours has, then adjust it so that there is a bit less free movement at the pedal before things start happening.

Did you compare the new CRB with the old one?? Some of the repro CRB's are incorrectly made.
Bob Beaumont

David Cox

What procedure did you use to bleed the system ??
Dave Barrow

Sometimes on masters you have to bench bleed them

With this being a complete clutch rebuild, there are could be a mis categorized part

Another thought that hasn't been raised yet, is the clutch disk installed correctly not backwards, apparently that can happen from what ive read

No photo showed up 😶


1 Paper

Is there any chance the fork is bent or that the rubber grommet boots have parished that support the fork at the entrance into the bell housing

The 1st thing I'd do is make sure the master is pumping a full volume of fluid then make sure the slave is actually fully distributing the fluid .

What was the purpose of the clutch system rebuild that you needed new masters/slaves and pushrod to begin with

1 Paper

Carpet as should be. Put new clutch in when box getting refurbed. No pedal afterward. Replaced slave and master and rod. Still no pedal. Box off to find bent arm. New arm fitted. Bled with EZ Bleed kit. Clutch does work - but as i say- its at the carpet to dis engauge.
Guy W. know the adjustable type off the Tiger - this is a non adjustable. Have taken all onboard and will start from basics on Saturday. Cheers for the input gents.
G Bewick

The only method of bleeding the clutch that I found works is as follows.

Bleed with eazybleed
Leave the bleed screw open, and then disconnect the rod, and push the slave piston in as far as it will go a few times, with a screwdriver or similar.
Reconect, and bleed again, using the pump the pedal method, with a peice of wood stopping the clutch from moving, this will get rid of any minute air left.
Some people recomend blocking the clutch hard down, and leaving it overnight, but have never tried this.

Dave Barrow

Some time back, whilst assisting someone over the phone, it was discovered his new clutch yoke, purchased from a Welsh supplier, was bent. An adjustable push rod was used short term.
Alan Anstead

I found that after about 15,000 mi, it was necessary to swap the rod for a longer one taken from a Morris 1300. The difference in length was about 1/2". This would get another 10,000 mi out of the clutch before it bottomed out again.

Removing all worn pins and forks makes a huge difference and wear in the pedal hole and release fork also figures heavily into the equation. A tiny bit of grease at each pivot point will prevent wear altogether but the cars were not shipped from the factory with lubricated clevis pins.

I am currently using a Rivergate kit with the Datsun 5 speed and an adjustable rod at the slave. It has its own problems.
Glenn Mallory

Wrong release bearing supplied in three piece kit. Someone had a 1098 instead of 1275 release supplied in 1275 3 piece kit.
Alan Anstead

This thread was discussed between 15/03/2018 and 29/03/2018

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

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