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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - clutch release bearing
|I have a 1973 RWA that i bought last year as a non runner as it'd been sitting for a while. the clutch pedal was rock solid so i've actually never driven it.|
im guessing the reason for the rock solid pedal was the completely knackered flexy hose that you cant even blast and air line through.
further investigation of the hydraulics has found that there is a length of bolt welded to the end of the push rod, there is also a lot of dead travel of the releae fork before the beraring makes contact... couple of images attached. is this the correct bearing? is it completely knackered meaning that i'm going to have to remove the engine and box?
first image shows bearing engaged, second image shows it pulled away as far as it can go on the release fork.
|Difficult to tell if it's the right one from the photo.|
The fact that the pushrod had been extended would suggest that something is wrong, though.
You only need to take the engine out, which IMHO is a lot easier than gearbox as well.
Someone will be along in a minute with another opinion.
|Dave O'Neill 2|
that dosnt t look or read well to me....it sounds like a bodge job
on the photo... it dosnt look right i dont recall that much gap beteween the 2 pins and the fork housing...its like its not sitting into the housing all the way
as to the push rod modification... its a somewhat common bodge for im guessing several reasons the flywheel has been resurfaced to many times a differant master/slave has been used
also the carbon on the pilot looks a little thin as does the rubbing block
sorry to say ... to gain access inside the bell housing you do have to remove the engine
what shape is the rubber boot that holds the fork in... if that is deterioted it can give alot of play in the fork
|Prop the cow killer|
The picture shows the 1275 carbon release for your car / 1275 albeit without carbon. The offset of the one in your photo appears to show a correct item.
The yoke in my picture is incorrect for a Spridget although it was removed from same.
Your carbon is thin and would benefit from replacement if your engine is being removed to check the clutch components.
Your slave rod may have been lengthened because the yoke is bent. When replacing a bent fork check that the replacement one is straight as I know of one person receiving a bent, allegedly new, fork.
|My bad... |
looking at alans photo there is alot of gap between the piviot pins and the fork housing
|Prop the cow killer|
|Matin's release is held in the spring clips visible and doing their job?|
|thanks everyone, as soon as i saw the 'extended' push rod i guessed there was going to be trouble! rather frustrating that i've struggled trying to paint the engine bay with everything in situ if its all going to come out anyway! oh well!|
|Extended pushrod definitely a bodge. The release bearing looks correct from what I can see, is the clutch arm bent? Often happens with extended pushrod causes arm to contact with bell housing.|
Thats tough...i feel for you...might as well put a big scrap down the side and get it over with
one oc those murphy rules with new paing... try try try then ar the end you gouage it with your belt buckle 5 min before your complete
good luck anx hanv in There
jusf a thoufht...tbe bodge obviously worked ... well? who knows i wonder if you ant just put a new hose on and get it running then i the winter once the paint is cured and the driving season basically over thdn do a proper clutch renovation
|Prop the cow killer|
|I've had it 18 months and not even driven it yet so not worried if it takes a little while longer... i've still got the blue one (in the background of that photo) when i do fancy a drive.|
this one was too much of a bargain to say no to, it was meant to be a quick recommision and sell on job, but its been a "i might as well do that while that bits off" and so on... type of job!
plan is to sort this one out and get it on the road and then take the blue one off the road for a bit of tarting up. that way i'll not be midget-less.
this one is de bumpered with roll bar and minilites wheras the blue one is much more traditional chrome bumpers and wire wheels etc. the blue one will remain largely original but the with red one i'll let the boy racer in me show through!
This thread was discussed between 24/07/2016 and 26/07/2016
This thread is from the archive. The Live MG Midget and Sprite Technical BBS is active now.