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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Clutch Slave - Renew or Repair?

Hi

After my 1275 Mk3 1972 midget being stood in the garage since last autumn the gears are grating and I've noticed clutch fluid around the slave cylinder. Fluid was also low in the reservoir.

What's the general opinion on replacing the slave cylinder with a new one or do I buy a repair kit?

Many thanks in advance

Paul
P Greenhough

If you're going to take it off anyway, you might as well clean it and look inside. If the bore and the piston are good, no score in the bore and no wear lip in particular, then a kit for circa 6 quid will fix it. I've used kits before and had no problem at all.

A full kit, piston, spring, seals and boot is circa 16 quid. So not worth it when you can get a new slave cylinder for circa 16 - 20 quid.

But you don't need a new spring and I doubt you'd need a new piston either.

But if the bore's scored, don't bother. Get a new slave.

Lawrence Slater

But there are new slaves...and new slaves.

Unless you can get NOS, I'd repair, unless the bore is really knackered.
Dave O'Neill 2

True, old is often best these days when it comes to parts for spridgets. I've got an old slave from my ribcase days. It's got the circlip, which I prefer.

Are there any on ebay? What other car did it fit?
Lawrence Slater

If the slave is orginal that makes it 43 years old..

I personally hate B.S. that gets in the way, so I did and would just buy a new one, and avoid the risk of a near future hassle...

for $20, id rather just re-wear my underpants for a couple of weeks to save the cash to buy a new slave, rather then have to spend an afternoon redoing what id already done

Prop



Prop and the Blackhole Midget

Hi

Many thanks for your replies and advice. I'll be ordering a new one from MGBHive on Monday. Got the two retaining bolts free but struggling to turn the nut on the fluid pipe. I've given it a good squirt with WD40 and will have another go in the morning.

Many thanks

Paul
P Greenhough

Paul
Turn the top fixing hole into a vertical slot. Put the top bolt in place to just allow the slave hole boss to slide under the bolt head. Then it just needs a nip rather than a turn.
The lower hole remains as is for normal fitment.
It just makes fitting so much easier
Alan
www.maskent.org
Alan Anstead

Alan's tip is worth doing it is much easier.

Noticed this :-

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GSY113

Not sure who makes it, or where !

The last ones I bought were 'Delphi' brand and they were good, seem to remember they had some financial issue so not sure if still making them.

R.
richard boobier

"What other car did it fit? "

MGB V8. Ain't many of those around!
Dave O'Neill 2

Many thanks everyone for your advice.

Don't know what brand MGBHive sell but had stuff from them before and it all seems ok.

Just hope that nut moves freely tomorrow.

Ta

Paul
P Greenhough

If you are struggling with the hose into the cylinder, why not take the hose off the other end where it joins the hydraulic pipe ?
If the hose is fairly old/stiff rubber it may well be worth replacing it as well.

R.
richard boobier

Thanks Richard. Might just do that.

Paul
P Greenhough

The ones supplied from most stockists have 'county' marked on the casting. generally ok but as with all aftermarket stuff quality can vary. I recall someone on here have problems with one. Part of the casting had to be ground away to ensure it fitted snugly on the gearbox.
Bob Beaumont

Am I right in thinking that this (see link) comes complete with seals and push rod.

http://mgbhive.co.uk/product/mgb-v8-clutch-slave-cylinder-midget-1275-gsy113/

P Greenhough

It will have seals and a piston, but not pushrod. Is that what you meant?
Dave O'Neill 2

Thanks David. Yes I thought the piston was called the pushrod.

I'm learning everyday.

Ta

Paul
P Greenhough

Now then. Finally got the old slave cylinder off with help from my neighbour and his open ring spanner.

Got a new slave on order from MGBhive. Should be with me in a couple of days.

My next question is, how much brake & clutch fluid am I likely to need to bleed the system when the new one is fitted. I have nearly a full 500ml Halfords Universal dot 4 Brake & Clutch fluid, am I likely to need more than this. Don't want to run out half way through the job.

Many thanks

Paul
P Greenhough

500 will do it, but I'd get another bottle just in case you spill some/the lot.
Lawrence Slater

Now then. Finally got the new slave fitted. Thanks for the advice Alan on cutting the top bolt hole, it made fitting it much easier.

Now for bleeding the system. The front of the car is on ramps but it is virtually impossible to access the bleed nipple from beneath the car or from the hole in the footwell. Is the best way to push it off the ramps, baring in mind I won't be able to push it back up,take the wheel off and try to get to it through the wheel arch?

Many thanks

Paul
P Greenhough

I've never heard of doing it that way.

I've only ever done it from the footwell, although I was younger and fitter then.
Dave O'Neill 2

HaHa. Maybe that's the problem. I'm not so young and not so fit.
P Greenhough

It is easier to bleed if you fit a remote bleed nipple
Alan
Alan Anstead

Alan

Is this something that can be bought or is it made up. Any more information would be good.

Ta
P Greenhough

You make it.

And this is how.

I did exactly this, but my fixing lug is a little different.

REMOTE CLUTCH BLEED
This can be made using 1 piece of brake pipe with 2 male ends and 1 double female nut. Fit 1 male end into the bleed valve hole fit double female nut to the other end, and attach to eng/gearbox fit original bleed valve into the other end of double female bleed system. Remember to secure the pipe and bleed valve end to stop it whipping about. We braze a piece of steel, in the centre of the double female nut, with a slot cut in it to locate it behind an eng/gearbox bolt.

Taken from
http://www.omniautos.force9.co.uk/sprite/m_trans.htm

Alan gave me the link the other day in another thread.



Lawrence Slater

What I do is fit a rear flexible brake pipe from a Spridget into the outlet occupied by the bleed nipple.
At the other end of the flexible I fit a brass 3 way connector as found on a Spridget back axle connection.
Put the nipple in one outlet. Blank the remaining outlet with a 3/8 unf bolt cut to size over a copper washer. I fit the 3 way to a bracket off the rear of the gearbox bellhousing. It is possible to then bleed by pumping the master cylinder pushrod and bleed almost next to whilst observing the fluid level.
The bleed can also be made from Goodridge couplings.
Allied to my long term use of silicon brake fluid I don't get all the problems that seemingly blight users of the BBS
Alan
www.masckent.org
Alan Anstead

Many thanks. I think that will exceed my capabilities. I'll persevere tomorrow with trying to access the bleed nipple via the foot well. It's just a bit of a tight squeeze though. Might resort to removing the seat, only 4 bolts I think.

Ta Paul
P Greenhough

You can use copper pipe instead of the flexible.
Alan
Alan Anstead

You lie facing the pedals, with your shoulders inside the car, under the steering wheel. It's not fun, but it can be done.


After I bought the copper pipe, I wish I'd bought a flexi Alan. Better I reckon.
Lawrence Slater

I'll give it a go tomorrow.

Ta

Paul
P Greenhough

You can (or certainly used to be able to) buy a remote bleed from Peter May.
David Smith

Third item down...

http://www.petermayengineering.co.uk/catalogue5.htm#catalogue5
Dave O'Neill 2

29.50.

I wonder what you get for that? I paid 4.75 to have my pipe made in the local car part store just the other week. It included the double female and a new bleed nipple.

Maybe it's a flexi.
Lawrence Slater

+ VAT
Dave O'Neill 2

but as we see time and time again on other threads there are times when it pays to just simply buy the tried and tested ready-made component.
David Smith

If you can still get the oe tried and tested component that is, and not buy a poor copy of it. I wouldn't bother at all, mucking about with a roller release, if the original carbon releases were easy to find.

Maybe that's what will finally kill these cars off. You won't be able to get a decent part for something, and the 'copies' will be too expensive, and crap to boot.
Lawrence Slater

Job done (hopefully). Many thanks for all your help and advice.

Water pump next I think. I'll no doubt be in touch.

Ta

Paul
P Greenhough

This thread was discussed between 14/03/2015 and 24/03/2015

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG Midget and Sprite Technical BBS is active now.