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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Coil Wire Connections


This might be a combination of bad luck and a Senior Moment...

I disconnected the coil in my 1972 midget last week and discovered tonight that I also must have broken the wires that connect to the positive and negative terminals on the coil. I have soldered the broken wires and now can’t remember the previous location of those spade connectors to the proper side of the coil.

An old wiring diagram I found in the basement, indicates a white wire is from the tach while the other is white w/black – but I can’t find my Haynes manual for the car.

I thought that both wires were connected to the positive side of the coil, but the wiring diagram implies that one goes to the “+” side and the other to the “-“ side...

I will continue the search in the garage for my Haynes manual, but if anyone can comment on my problem tonight, I would greatly appreciate it...

Thanks!

Mike “disconnected in Upstate NY” P.
Mike Pelone

White to +
White/Black to -
Dave O'Neill 2

Dave:

Thanks for the prompt reply...That makes more sense and uses both terminals...

I could have sworn that only ONE of the coil terminals was used...I'll chalk that up to a combination of failing eyesight enhanced by a Senior Moment...

There wasn't much wire length left to connect to the white wire after I soldered the connector back on. It now sticks out about 2 inches from the wrapped wiring loom as it passes along the side of the inner fender apron...

I hope that the tension and vibrations don't cause my soldered connector to loosen over time...

Mike P.
Mike Pelone

Mike

Is it possible to rotate the coil within its bracket to reduce the strain on the wire?
Dave O'Neill 2

Dave:

Here is a photo of what I ended up with...Note that I actually marked the polarity on the side of the coil so that when I disconnect those wires in the future - I can clearly tag them without standing upside down on my head...

There wasn't a lot to be gained by rotating the coil inside of the bracket. I did loosen the tension screw and moved it slightly..

You can see where I upgraded the hardware that holds down the coil bracket, since the PO used only one small bolt to hold it to the fender apron [and metric at that!]...

So I used a stud & jam nut on the underside to anchor the bracket, plus a 2nd set of nuts and washers on the "upside" for faster removal in the future...those studs firmly anchor the assembly such vibration issues should be minimized.

At this time, I really don't want to splice/solder in another 2+ inches of wire. Maybe in my Next Life...


Mike Pelone

Ohh Mike that's tight

An interesting thing (if you like hints and tips on wiring)

Lucas colour coding generally runs a black trace on any wire that is destined to go to earth/ground like the white/black

it is bound for the switch inside the dissy that then earths it, the contact breaker points

so you have white wire into the coil and the white/black out to earth/ground

My car's fuel circuit has a green wire to the gauge and a green/black wire that runs to the tank unit, where it earths

same method

anyway, I think I would soldr a fly wire to that one, it wouldnt take much vibration (what? In a Midget? How dare I?) to cause a new problem
Bill 1

What about slitting and unwrapping an extra inch or so of the plastic tape where the 2 spurs to the coil leave the loom. That would release a little extra slack on the wires.

I would also look at re-routing the loom underneath that brake pipe (left of photo) - it looks like it is going to rub there and could eventually chafe through the insulation. But maybe it's just the angle of the shot.

Guy
Guy Weller

The only observation I would make is the unprotected LIVE terminal that is exposed on the positive of the coil. This will be LIVE at all times when the ignition is on and would be better if protected.
Robert (Bob) Midget Turbo

This thread was discussed between 10/09/2010 and 11/09/2010

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