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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Crankshaft Pulley removal
|I wonder if someone can advise me if it is possible to machine the front of the crankshaft pulley so that it can be removed/replaced without having to undo lots of stuff that is already in place.|
I have replaced my engine today (on my own) and I had to remove the pulley to enable the engine to sit at the right angle to engage the clutch etc - the gearbox was already in situ.
I have access to the proper engineering machinery, so removing the metal is not an issue unless it then creates an issue elsewhere.
|It would be helpful to know what engine you're talking about.|
|IIRC it's a Lenham so must be 1275.|
Martyn I have replaced engine on my own without disturbing the pulley - it helps to have a trolley jack under the gearbox to fine adjust the angle of entry.
I wouldn't recommend reducing the weight of the harmonic balancer pulley as it won't then be able to do it's job correctly.
|Similarly, engines in and out loads of times and the pulley hasn't presented a problem.|
|Dave O'Neill 2|
|With the engine bolted to the gearbox there should just be enough room to jack it up (jack under sump suitably braced) and put the crankshaft nut and pulley back. But, how you apply the necessary torque is another matter.|
I've found that with my Hertage shell 1275 I had to pull the engine/gearbox forward and up (i.e release gearbox mounts as well) before I could remove the c/s pulley nut and pulley.
Need to block the flywheel with a tool/bracket to stop rotation to apply torque but its not that high on an A series.
|That pully bolt will retorq its self in no time...haha|
They can be lighted ... i had gotten one prelightened but it moves the harmonics higher up the rpm range and it needs to be balanced also
There is a rubber coustion inside the pully and it needs to be in top shape before you turn it down as thsts what does the damping.
|Prop and the|
|To add a note about engine removal and install|
They make a china made engine leveler thsts cheap at im sure your tool mart it has a crank and you can adjust the angle of the engine from pointing up to pointing down...its indespensiable for me
I did modify my load leveler... i removed the crank handle and attached a bolt to it and then i just plug in the electric impact rench and buzz away makes it so much easier then hand cranking it...also lube up the long threaded bar that shifts the balance and that makes it easier to crank back and forth.
|Prop and the|
|Thanks for the replies, I tried lifting the engine and gearbox upwards but the bellhousing catches on the heater shelf, the amount of space I need is 5mm.|
I had thought about moving the engine/gearbox back but its seems really daft that you need to undo all the mounts just to gain 5mm of space.
Does anybody make a shallower harmonic crankshaft pulley so that engine removal/installation will be easier in the future.
Had I have known before the car was painted I would have notched the offending chassis member.
|I don't think I have ever found the pulley to be particularly bothersome when taking the engine out or putting it back. . . but that clearly doesn't mean it has loads of room. Like others, I would suggest you leave the pulley as is and should you remove metal from anywhere then perhaps the heater 'shelf' might be the answer. Having said that, I am trying to think why you would leave the engine in the car if you are having to take the crank pulley off or re-install it.|
Always happy to learn, so do let me know how you get on and what you choose to do.
|Its easier just to remove the engine and gearbox together, as a unit. But I have done it both ways and never had to remove the pulley either. Its close, but a little careful jacking under the gearbox whilst lifting and sliding the engine forwards and the pulley just clears the front cross member|
However, although removing the engine whilst leaving the gearbox in situ is easy enough, I do find it much harder putting the engine back in and aligning the gearbox with the clutch. With the engine hanging on the hoist it always feels like there is a danger of damaging the input shaft. On a number of occasions I have taken the engine out on its own, but have given up trying to realign in situ and have whipped the gearbox out too, reconnected and then lowered them back in as a unit.
|I agree with Guy. Removing/replacing the gearbox with the engine adds maybe half an hour to the job. I don't bother removing the propshaft as I have found that I can slide it back on to the gearbox via the gearchange access hole whilst lowering the engine/gearbox assembly.|
|Funnily enough I prefer to take the engine out leaving the G box in place. saves all that oil draining and bleeding the clutch. I know that the first motion appears vulnerable but it all seems to go together if the G box is well supported. I use the standard lifting eyes on the rocker box studs.|
Yes the clearance to the front pulley is tight but with careful wiggling (technical term!)it drops in ok. It may be worth leaving the gearbox mountings slack so there is a bit more movement.
|I prefer to remove the engine on its own. Even if I need to remove the gearbox, I still remove the engine first, then pull the gearbox out.|
|Dave O'Neill 2|
|That's a good tip, Simon! I have spent many happy hours, oil up to the armpit, finding the hole for the propshaft.|
|Nick and Cherry Scoop|
|Thanks again for the views, I too prefer to leave the box in position and take the engine out on its own, no gearbox oil all over the floor etc.|
With regard to lining up the gearbox splines I just remove the plugs and use a socket or spanner to locate the two together and push when you feel it engage.
MED do a pulley for the Cooper S I have rang them for the dimensions, if it fits and is a least 5mm shorter than the midget one then that's what I will probably use.
Yes its quite expensive but it pails into insignificance if I were to add up all the money I have already spent building the Lenham.
|Bob, no need to bleed clutch, simply detatch slave cylinder from bellhousing. Either way you have to get under the car and so oil can be draining when undoing bolts.|
|Martyn, I have the med damper on mine. It won't clear the crossmember so I remove it when the engine comes out. I have it fixed with 4 cap head bolts so easy to get an Allen key on the bolts. If I can find a pic I'll post one.|
|Cheers John, the MED one is actually 1mm thicker than the stock one, can you actually remove part of it in situ and then hoist the engine out.|
A picture would be great
|It comes in 2 parts Martyn. The outer part is what is secured with the cap head bolts. Can't find a photo and car is in the body shop - back at the end of the week.|
|Martyn, both the assembly and the component parts are pictured on the MED website|
|Super, I have just been on the phone with MED and the pulley part is 31mm thick (deep) and the harmonic part is 16mm thick, so I think the problem is now sorted.|
Many thanks one and all
This thread was discussed between 19/03/2017 and 21/03/2017
This thread is from the archive. The Live MG Midget and Sprite Technical BBS is active now.