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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Dashboard wiring
|This is by way of a "when I get round to it" task.|
Having just persuaded my dashboard back into position after a re-spray, and reconnected all the snaking wires I was a bit horrified at the scrow of wires back there!
What is needed is a mini-loom, nicely wrapped with each wire exiting at the right position for its connection - and all terminating in a single multiplug at a point easy to reach to connect to the main loom. It would be safer, and less likely to get shorts or "crossed wires".
And it would be just SO NICE to know that all was neat and tidy down there!
I wonder if I will ever do it!
You need a perspex dashboard... then you'd fix the wiring; otherwise, it's out of sight...
Can you make one for me while you're at it ;)
Neat wiring behind the dashboard would be lovely, wouldn't it.
|actually, you can do what you describe, when the dash is laying on your knees. If there isn't enough slack in the harness, you can shift the whole dash a little to the right while you are working, until you are ready to re-install it.|
You route the wiring to everything where it is needed, and then use little zip ties to bundle things together and tidy it all up. Then install the dash to the car and tuck up the last bit of slack on the RH side.
If you want to get fancy, you can also cut the harness somewhere on the RH side, behind the dash, and install a modern, multi-wire connector (or you can use those big rubber ones from the bugeye bonnet harness). Doing this will only loose you about 1/2", or so, of w/h length, if you are really careful about how you cut/strip/crimp the leads.
|I was going to suggest the same as Norm. I'm replacing my main harness over the winter (more for peace of mind than anything else) and I intend to get it as neat as I can. when i rewired all the instrument lights last fall, i made a sub harness for the wires I added and it really helps me know what I am unplugging and where it needs to go. |
|Er! My 65 Sprite already has two multi-connectors that connect the dash wiring to the main harness and a further 9 way connector at the RHSnext to the A-post which connects the main harness to the rear wiring. Looks original to me. All the various wires go through connectors that show up on the wiring diagram, although these connectors are shown as multiple 'plugs and sockets' they are grouped in blocks.|
|Spridget under dash wiring = bird's nest!|
Great minds think alike. I have spent this week knee deep in wiring. The midget loom has been done as you described. everything in its place, all wires shortened or lengthened to come out of the loom where required.
We are yet to finish under the dash but it will be finished in the nylon braided sleeving with yellow heat shrink labels at every termination so the loom can never be plugged in incorrectly.
The engine bay has seen the fusebox removed and relocated by the centre console with an additional 6 fuse dist block for accessories like spot lamps, trip, map lights, 2nd fuel pump, etc.
The wiring which typically cuts across the bottom of the pedal box has been removed, renewed, and extended to loop round from the front of the car to prevent shorting, rubbing or problems around the brake lines and coils. this includes the brake light switch, coil +&- and the alternator wiring.
At the same time the starter solenoid has been moved outboard of the pedal box and sits in line with the new loom. easily connected and also well protected from foreign objects, shorting, etc etc.
The water temp sender wire has been looped and p-clipped across the top of the head studs, again to prevent rubbing, shorting or other problems and is then p-clipped up the driver side wall of the battery tray.
Lighting loom is in the process of being shortened and new connectors to prevent water/dirt ingress and of course continue on a route that would be pleasing to the eye should you go hunting for it.
Anyway, a pic
|wednesday was spent completely wire-tucking a honda civic |
Dashboard loom mid process
|lighting loom removed from engine bay, deloomed from engine loom, tidied then brought out through the door loom grommet, cut, heat shrink, then solder on the neat lighting loom once it is complete and fitted neatly to the lights.|
|and the same process only longer and more painful when you catch your hands on random brackets.|
The entire engine loom is designed to attach to connectors on the shock towers on each side of the engine bay.
what we have done is brought all those connectors down the back of the engine, shortened some, lengthened others to provide us with a set of connectors which can fit through the hole in the bulkhead and straight into the connectors that have been deloomed pulled back into the car then reloomed behind the dash to meet in the middle.
|I like you work Peter.|
I had thought about suggesting the behind-dash mini-loom as an item for you a while back when you were asking for manufacturing product ideas. But the problem is probably too much variation in dash-board layouts to be able to standardise to a universal sub-loom.
I like your work. What type of connectors do you find work best at keeping the damp out and minimising losses?
|The idea is that when the fuel lines and brake lines are also done, the bulkhead and sides of the engine bay are totally smooth and clean and your engine appears to float in the middle of it.|
|Guy, i personally use a connector that we always relied on when i used to race model cars. We know them as RS Pins - but i will find out a proper name and price should you be interested.|
|A friend of mine used to be a rep for RS - I will ask him|
|good idea, they are basically bullet connectors, but sexier.|
They solder on and do not increase the overall diameter of the cable aside from the heatshrink. Always have any live feeds as the females and earth/negatives as males - prevents any unwanted sparks/shorting.
|better shot showing the new loom in wills car|
Still to be p-clipped to the top of footwell and inner wing
This thread was discussed between 02/09/2010 and 03/09/2010
This thread is from the archive. The Live MG Midget and Sprite Technical BBS is active now.