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MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Ebay, 5 speed T9, or am I wrong?

http://tinyurl.com/7uqnrrg
FORD type 9 4speed gearbox
Item number:200713369670
Price:£15.00
Time left:2d 23h

Do you see what I see? Or am I wrong?

I think this is a late casing 5 speed, and at 15 quid, it's a steal. ---- If I'm right.

And if I am right, no wonder he hasn't got any bids. Who want's a 4 speed?

I wish I was nearer to Manchester, I'd have it myself for a spare or a profit.

So take a peek folks, and schhh, don't tell everyone. :)
Lawrence Slater

I think the 4 speed has the integral cast belhousing as in the top one in the image. Others will confirm.


F Pollock

F Pollock,

The top one does have an integral bellhousing, although version were apparently available in Europe with removable, but that is a smaller gearbox. There is a Ford 4 speed gearbox, which has a removable bellhousing, and is the same basic size as the type 9, I think the type 9 was actually developed from the 4 speed hence the add on nature of the 5th gear on the type 9. I have one of the 4 speed boxes kicking around from a mk3 Cortina 2000E see http://www.burtonpower.com/tuning-guides/tuning-guide-pages/ford-type-e-gearbox-guide.html
David Billington

Intresting.

So for someone not bothered about getting a 5th gear, but wanting a better box than the Ribcase, a 4 speed ford could be an option? Presumabley lighter too.
Lawrence Slater

But would it be better?

What are the ratios like?
Dave O'Neill2

Here you go.


Lawrence Slater

I do not think it will be lighter.
Ribcase has a alloy case
Ford is cast iron.....
Onno K

Lighter than the 5 speed type 9 Onno.
Lawrence Slater

But isn't that comparing apple's and pears?

A 4 speed is always going to be lighter than a 5 speed.

If you want a stronger gearbox than there are easier options who bolt right in the shell without cutting
Onno K

It looks like a type 9 five speeder.

All Ford stuff is similar so you could fit a 4 speed four if you wanted a stronger box than the Spridget 4 speed but don't expect it to be lighter even if you used an alloy main case Ford or Ford based 4 speed box.
Daniel Thirteen-Twelve

Send Three and Fourpence. We’re Going to a Dance.

Back when the original order, that led to the above was sent, messages were relayed by word of mouth, and multiple radio link, with each operator having to listen, and then pass on the message. No wonder then, that in the passing, the message was changed.

But I wonder sometimes, how in the course of a thread, in which the original text is always on display, and everyone speaks the same language, the message still manages to change. :)

------
I had noticed, that perhaps a 4 speed ford g/box had been mistaken for a 5 speed gearbox. It was confirmed in the next post with a picture, and a further post added that a 4 speed ford box is also available with a removable bell housing.

This then led me to speculate, that if a 5th gear wasn't wanted by someone fed up with the crappy recon ribcases, that such a person might be interested in a 4 speed ford box. I added that the 4 speed ford box, would also likely be lighter than a 5 speed ford box, thereby compensating in some measure for the lack of a 5th gear.

The advantage of this might be, that 4 speed ford boxes are likely to be as cheap as chips, and as plentiful, since nobody much wants them anymore.

Neither apples, pears, or other similies were being considered. It was simply a muse on the results of the previous posts.

Send reinforcements, we're going to advance. :)

Funny ol' world ain't it.
Lawrence Slater

Come on then, own up you lucky person, who put in the winning bid.

I'm kicking myself for 2 reasons.

1) After I posted this here, I realised it was a mistake to be so generous with my knowledge, as it occured to me that a rather nice profit might have been put at risk.

2) I just missed bidding, because I got distracted doing something else, with 30 seconds to go, and by the time I got back, it was gone, for the extremely cheap sum of £23 and a penny plus 30 quid postage.

Bummer. I was going to bid 50 quid for it, as I know someone would grab it from me for £130.

Aint life a ball. lol.
Lawrence Slater

£130 ! Is that what they are going for now? Over the last 8 years I have paid £0, £20, £30 and £80 for two. And I have "passed" on a few others that came my way as I didn't have the storage space.
Guy

Actually Guy, 130 is ball park. They go for more than that sometimes. It rather depends on how the seller -- on ebay anyway -- pitches it.

If the description contains, definitely working, or good for midgets, or low mileage, and a decent description of exactly what kind of type 9 it is, etc, they can go for 200 ish.

No doubt many are bought for other kit conversions, but from what I can tell, a lot are being bought for midget conversions too.

Not long ago someone posted here that type9s were getting scarce. I said I thought not, and it seems I'm right. But they are getting expensive.

Or maybe not so expensive when compared to the cost of a fully recon'd type9 by some g/box specialists, who are charging over 500, quid and want a box in exchange.

So if you come by a late type 9 again for 20/30/40/50 snap it up. If even just as a spare for yourself.

But this one only went cheap as it was wrongly described as a 4 speed. At the same time, another one accurately described as a 5 speed, went for £137.
Lawrence Slater

The time period in which cars go from filling the scrapyards to real rarities seems to be quite short. The same thi9ng happened with classic minis. There was a time when there were dozens in every scrapyard. Now they are rarely seen there. However many Sierras there may have once been, when did you actually last see one on the roads? Maybe the odd cherished Cossie, but not much else.
Guy

I picked my 68,000 mile 1982 Sierra 1.6 'box up for £70 two years ago. I just popped the top to check the condition of the gears and found it was lovely and clean inside. I've had two years of noise free, smooth changing motoring since and I love it. Although mine is unmodified in the remote area, I have got used to the 4 inches further back position, but having said that, I'd like to try a shortened remote one to see if it's worth getting mine done.

Bernie.
b higginson

for Sierras, allowing for those without Type 9 and database errors it appears to be in the low thousands - but I didn't add them up - from How Many Left site -
http://howmanyleft.co.uk/?q=ford%20sierra&p=0

shortly after (always after) I got my Type 9 I was told of a low mileage whole car that went for £80
Nigel Atkins

Yes I agree with you there. I've been asking the scrappies (those that are left anyway), and they rarely get fords of an age that had type 9 boxes any more, although some do still have the odd box on their shelves.

For a car that was once so common, it is amazing how quickly the sierra has disappeared.

But the boxes themselves are still quite abundant it seems. There are usually 3-6 on ebay at any one time. I would also think that there are quite a few in local papers, by people who don't use ebay.

Of course this is all relative to demand. If everyone suddenly wanted one, they'd be like gold dust on an ice rink. :)

I've bought myself a spare, and with the help of docs you sent me Guy, I'm going to strip and rebuild it.
Lawrence Slater

missed the edit - ETA:

Bernie I've got a shorten box what do you want to known

- note mine was done not very nicely by a 'specialist expert' oufit and was supposed to have been reconditioned too but I have my doubts about that

I have photos
Nigel Atkins

Nigel. I just wondered how a type 9 with a shortened remote feels in comparison to a full length one. I know some of the guys on here have done their own and there are plenty of firms out there that will do the work, so I was contemplating diong it maybe next winter, but I probably won't as life's too short and I'm very happy with mine as it is.

Bernie.
b higginson

Bernie,
I don't know if mine is typical of most shortened boxes because of the possible poor work done to shorten it by said 'specialist expert'

I have driven a mate's Midget with a standard length un-reconditioned type 9 fitted so can compare with that

neither box is as nice as a good Spridget box

I must also mention I have a shortened (by said mate) quickshift lever that's a waste of time, well the quickshift bit anyway, shortening is nice for throw

my box in comparision to to my mate's is quite stiff and a little notchy, 5th gear selection is particularly awkward if you think about the selection, if you just do it it works but give it thought and it's awkward

someone on here told me about the plastic saddle (you can also get it in brass) which cut out most of the gear lever rattle that the 'specialist expert' was unable to get rid of by lever replacement or bodging by packing out with grease

in conclusion I'd say if you're happy with your box as it is then let it be

Nigel Atkins

plastic gearlever saddle - http://www.bearingkits.co.uk/FORD-GEARBOX-PARTS-FORD-SIERRA-TYPE-9-GEARBOX-PARTS/c76_90/p239/TYPE-9-GEARSTICK-PLASTIC-SADDLE/product_info.html?osCsid=530fd28dc1cd049869871c6d76f28606

harder weraring brass gearlever saddle - http://www.bearingkits.co.uk/FORD-GEARBOX-PARTS-FORD-SIERRA-TYPE-9-GEARBOX-PARTS/c76_90/p523/METAL-RACE-SPEC-TYPE-9-GEARSTICK-SADDLE/product_info.html?osCsid=530fd28dc1cd049869871c6d76f28606
Nigel Atkins

Bernie, you have mail!

Nigel, when I did my gearbox I fitted a drain plug which does make things a bit easier even though gearbox oil changing isn't a very frequent event.

I have understood from stuff that I have read that the T9 boxes are very sensitive to use of the right oil. Possibly a rumour put about by Ford as the recommended Ford oil via their dealerships is very expensive! So I am using a 75W-90 oil sold by Comma which was far cheaper and I have no complaints!

Guy

Thanks for the mail Guy.
I also use semi synthetic 75W-90 and so far, so good. The oil that was in it when I got it was red, so I assume that was the fully synthetic Ford stuff.
If I do take it out next winter to shorten the remote I think I'll make a drain plug also, as all the box has at the moment is the magnet in the bottom.

BTW. Nigel. Can you please tell this dummy how to post links like the ones in your last post. I've never been able to do it.

Bernie.
b higginson

Bernie

Links are dead easy...

'right click' on the URL - the http bit at the top of the screen - then click on 'copy' from the menu.
Put the cursor in the text box where you are writing and 'right click' again, then select 'paste'. Job done.

Lawrence will be along in a minute to tell you how to use 'tinyurl'. I used to use it, but my PC started blocking the site as it said it was unsafe.
Dave O'Neill2

Thanks Dave. Another lesson learned.
b higginson

I need the magnet from the bottom of a T9 box if anyone every happens to have a spare one.
Daniel Thirteen-Twelve

Guy,
I’ve got Comma SX75W-90 as top up oil as someone told they used it and it was fine

you’d have thought a ‘specialists expert’ company might have thought of adding a drain plug whilst doing the shortening work

luckily they gave me a box that leaks a little so perhaps they were going for gradual oil change over a number of years

I think from all I’ve read that it pays to get the right oil for the box but I know this from experience too of other gearboxes but as always there’s more than one opinion on what the correct oil is

Bernie,
the secret (keep it between ourselves) is to have a (carriage) return immediately after the link, i.e. next character/word on the next line or leave a line space

ETA: I just tried to put a link that didn't link but it did link - arrrh, bl**dy computers

ETA: what magnet I bet mine is missing
Nigel Atkins

I am lucky to have two sprites which I have fitted with T9's. I shortened the remote on one only and I would not go to the trouble again. There is risk of cooking an oil seal and / or bearing if you are not careful with the tig welding.
I am 6ft + tall so do have the seat back as far as whereas someone more vertically challenged may appreciate the shortened remote.
A Anstead

having short legs I sit with my nose on the windscreen (and still struggle to see or recognise the end of the bonnet)

I had a car where 2nd and 4th were almost behind me

I always remember taking a tall mate out once and he said it was lke being in a taxi as he was looking at the back of my head and he didn't think it was possible in a two seater
Nigel Atkins

Anyone ever tried putting a T5-Z gearbox in a Spridget?
Guy

Nigel,
A decent srpidget box doesn't exist does it? Anyway, having syncro on 1st is better than a crash first. If your having crunch problems selecting gears, and you have the right oil, then either the clutch isn't fully disengaging, or you have wear on the syncros. As for selecting 5th gear, you have to remember that in a capri or sierra, you would be sitting higher, with a longer lever, and the action would be smoother. Having said that, I have a lever I shortened myself, and just a light tap on the left hand side, makes for a pretty easy shift into 5th. I wonder if when they shortened your extension, they inadvertently incorporated some extra stiffness?

On the subject of shortened remotes, I emailed an Ebay firm recently, that does the opposite. I.e, they make a bolt on device to lengthen the remote on a type9, for other cars. http://tinyurl.com/7p5bwby
I asked if they could make a bolt on device to move the lever forward for a Spridget. He said if I sent him the measurements, he'd look into it. I haven't, but if someone is interested, it's info@mst-developments.co.uk

I was told to use Tiny URl so I didn't screw up peoples screen dimensions. :)

Oils: I have it on good advice from a type9 g/box rebuilder, that if you drain a Type9 box, and it's red, then that is ATF. It was supposed to be good for worn boxes, and then it was confused as an alternate to ford oil, which was expensive. I am told that ATF will eventually ruin the gearbox, and that Comma oil is perfectly good stuff.

I also put a drain plug in mine, directly under the magnet.

How exactly does the plastic saddle fit? Was it a standard fitment? I don't have one, and can't see that there is any room for one, or need as the stick doesn't rattle. Does anyone have a picture of the saddle in place?

As for the gear leaver. I have a spare one that I have seen selling on ebay for in excess of 60 quid. It looks pretty crude, and is identical to one sold by Quaife. It's supposed to be quick shift, but as far as I can tell it has the same action as the standard ford variety. So why are they special?




Lawrence Slater

Mine uses a very short stubby lever. In effect this makes for a "quick shift" as the distance moved by the top of the gear lever is very short and quick. I shortened the pressure of the detent spring in order to make for a lighter shift, given the lack of leverage compared to the original Sierra "wand".

There is a method of modifying a standard lever to make it a quick shift.It involves moving the pivot ball up the gear lever shaft by about 3/8" and then lifting the cover plate by the same amount with spacers.


Guy

Lawrence,
you’re probably right that a decent Spridget box doesn’t exist on a car that’s used

I’m not having crunch problems just that the changes aren’t as nice as previous boxes

thanks to the quality of the work done by the ‘specialist expert’ the clutch adoption work he (they?) done has been dealt properly by a more honest company

as for the work done by them on the remote it could be that is the cause, by the look of the weld it could have be dolloped anywhere

on the oils I’ve read, and agree with, as you’ve put

***So where’s this magnet??***

saddle fits under where the gear lever bottom forks go, it’s black plastic (in mine anyway) so is hard to see especially if some bodge artist has been throwing grease everywhere

I think it’s a standard component of the box

some where in a previous thread is a photo of it in situ as that’s how I leant about it

there are quickshift levers that look exactly the same as the two (or is it three) I’ve had, they vary in price but none are as expensive as I was charged (more research by me now on these things) the ones I’ve had are just not that well made but they all look the same, the Quaife looks the quality one though

there’s a description somewhere of how to convert a standard lever to quick shift for the sake of a few washers I think that you’d like

as far as I can tell the standard lever has a section that acts as an anti-rattle/vibration section which the quickshift levers don’t - I can put up links of various levers if you want them

and I can confirm that you were asked to use (something like?) the Tiny URL to keep page widths down

ETA: Guy posted whilst I was typing so has given details on conversuion to quickshift

Guy, get that to the doctor's !

PPS - is the right turn indicator red lens for danger?
Nigel Atkins

LOL, just fancied red and green lenses made from plastic milk carton caps as the originals had long since gone missing. Someone should tell me they are the wrong way round.
Get what to the doctors? The red and green lenses?
Guy

if I do route notes I put put left turns in green ink and right turns in red ink - you can't see it here as it's in B&W (and for those without colour sets . . . )

Guy everyone except you it appears would see and know what I mean in that photo by get that to the doctor's :)
Nigel Atkins

Good to know you get them the wrong way round as well then!
Guy

is it boats and/or aeroplanes that do it the other way round, as I drive neither of them I don't worry

no I do it as red for danger

the ladies that navigate think it's a good idea

my wife once asked about considering people that are coloured-blind then went on to photocopy the notes in default B&W - sometimes I'd swear she does it on purpose :)
Nigel Atkins

Port, red, left.
Starboard, green, right.
Guy

I'll get my spare gear lever down from the loft, and take a good look at it again. Maybe it's constructed along the lines that Guy describes. It was sold to me, as part of my 5 speed conversion kit. However, as I already had a standard ford job with g/box I bought seperately, I didn't use the so called quick shift lever, because the action didn't look any different to my untrained eye.

Guy, thanks for that.
My modified lever is pretty short, but not that short. I have a circa 2.5 inch removable extention on it. When I first shortened it, I found it a bit too stiff (after the little finger effort of the sprite box), so I made up a short extension. I did wonder about reducing the pressure on the detents, but thought it might make it pop out of gear, but as you've already done it, I'll give it a go when I next remove the box.

Where are those seats from Guy? Very nice indeed.

Nigel, get what to the doctor?

I've just been looking at the availability of Ribcase g/box parts, a bit expensive, but you can get most if not all that's needed to rebuild one. I've got my old one in the loft, I think I'll strip it this year and see what it needs. When I took it out, it drove and stayed in all gears, but was pretty noisy in 1st 3rd and reverse if I remember rightly. Especially 1st, but that's straight cut anyway. I suspect all I need is bearings and baulk rings. If so it would be pretty cheap to rebuild and keep for a future sale as a decent ribcase. Even these are begining to make silly money on Ebay now.
Lawrence Slater

yes I thought that was the colours for a boat, in future only I'll give sailors the B&W photocopies

but thinking about it as I discovered from following 4 famous (to others, I only knew Paddy Hopkirk, who seemed a really nice gentleman) instructions there is (or was) no strict convention on route notes, so I change my mind they are the notes so sailors will have to forget what they do at sea (careful Lawrence)

I should have guessed Lawrence would question it :)

if you can't see it don't worry about it :)

as I found by one of the 'specialist expert's suggested remedies, and later from my mate, even using a stiffer rubber (MGA) gaiter will pull the lever out of gear so careful with the detents

I think just lifting the fulcrum point or point of fulcrum or something like that makes the lever a quickshift

the seats look very familiar but I'm wondering if the bases have been shortened
Nigel Atkins

Lawrence,
Seats are MGF ones. Bought on e-bay for £10. They were a cream colour when I got them. I recoloured them with a leather dye. I sent a sample of the trim and the supplier produced a reasonable colour match. They have acquired just about the right amount of patina now so look the part for the age of the car.

I made the centre arm rest; for my back length it is just the right height for resting my arm on and using the stubby gearlever. The colour match isn't quite right, I aught to spray that with the same leather dye too.

Looking at that photo I think it is time to adjust the rear brake shoes up a notch or two. Might do that tomorrow if the forecast snow doesn't arrive tonight.
Guy

See, that's the trouble with this bbs.

Guy gets a set of MGF seats for only 10 quid on ebay, and they look so good, that now my good condition spridget seats need changing lol.

Didn't know you were a sailor Nigel? What did you do at sea then?

Ah I get it, if I were colour blind, I would notice something about the red/green indicator markers.

What would I see then?

Lawrence Slater

no mate you're not seeing it but don't worry about it

no I'm certainly not a sailor, I don't like water much, I have no interest infact I almost have a dislike of the sea, the seaside, lakes, rivers, fountains, all of those my wife likes - I also don't like the sound of water

my mate lives on a boat during the week as it's cheaper than renting or buying somewhere near where he works

about every 18 months I got to stay with him for a day or two and he uses that excuse to have me help empty the toilts and actually take the boat out for a spin, we once got as far as Windsor before stopping for tea and turning back, I don't we done under 10 miles in total
Nigel Atkins

Hydrophobia Nigel? Scary.
I hope you don't go around biting people nigel lol.

And how do you cleanse yourself? Dry cleaning? :)

I do worry Nigel, I won't be able to sleep tonight, knowing that in that picture is something I can't see. Something that may have such a profound effect on my life, that I may even be converted to the sacred religion of the OM :)
Lawrence Slater

I don’t even bark at people

the only slight phobic bit might be running taps, I don't like bath or sink taps left to run if no one is there

I do occasionally wash, if it’s not scheduled then before a bath I do have notify the water board and Dynarod - although a lot of people do wash too often, check with your dermatologist

the bit you are missing is the subject of the photo but the comment is well past it’s best now so forget it

Lawrence you're a long way off conversion if you can't get the name of the religion correct - a religion is only basically a strong believe
Nigel Atkins

DM then?

I used to have a pair of them when I was in my skinhead Parka, Lambretta phase, before I entered my long haired, leathers, Bonneville phase. :)

Ah, the subject of the photo. Yes indeed. Anyone who has one like that, should indeed seek medical assistance. lol

Edit, actually I also had a pair of steel toecap DM biker boots too. :)
Lawrence Slater

D M no, although DMs were made in the fine county of Northants at one time and the company when run by Max particularly was good with its workers

DMs were part of our version of uniform for a couple of years at school, well we didn't know better then, no skinhead connotations though

only one colour of DM allowed with one colour of stitching but you could chose number of lace holes was it 8/10 and 14, ours were the rounder toe - all collectors items now, wow I’d have got a few bob for my Church’s bookbinder brogues if I hadn’t have given them away years ago, the soles were that thick it was exercise lifting your feet but when they sold moccasins the soles were so thin you’d get your socks wet at the merest hint of a damp pavement

I’ve got such small fat feet I had to always pay full shop prices which were the same as the fashion street of London

I think Griggs not that long ago sold the shop in London they bought all three floors just to get the shop on the ground floor
Nigel Atkins

Is this a T9?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/260955364532
Dave O'Neill2

well the gear lever looks right :)

not the best photo but it looks like it might be - are you saying it isn't?
Nigel Atkins

Yup Dave, that's a type 9, 5 speed with cable speedo drive.
But from that picture, you can't be certain if it's a short shaft or long shaft box, or if it's an early box or late one.
However he does say it's from a lightning rod, so I would guess it's a short shaft, and therefore good for Spridget conversion.

Nigel. Church’s bookbinder brogues. Memories :)
Lawrence Slater

Whether it is short shaft or long shaft doesn't really matter. If it is a long shaft one you just lop a bit off the end with an angle grinder and clean up with a file. That's what I did. From memory, I think you take off around 12mm.

Nigel, I guess if you identify the box by the look of the gear lever, then it is unlikely that I actually have a T9 in my car! I am beginning to realise that your "doctor" comment referred to my gear lever. Its what you do with it, not the length that counts. Or so I am told!


Guy

Well that went pretty cheap Dave. Were you the buyer? A better description and a rainy day to keep people at home, would have raised that price up to the 130's mark.

Whose conversion kit did you use Guy, or did you make up your own?

Does it depend on the conversion kit you get? Mine was pretty specific. I needed the 1.6 - 2.0 5 speed capri/sierra box with a 175mm short shaft.

On the long shaft, the splines are a little further up the shaft. I was supplied with a Saab concentric slave, that had a spacer to bring the thrust to just the right position, along with a bellhousing that dictated how long the shaft could be.

At the time I asked the chap, if I could cut the end off a long shaft and he said it wouldn't match up properly if I did that. But sounds like he may have been wrong if you did exactly that.

Makes you wonder what's in Nigels mind, if he can instantly see what he sees, looking at your gear knob LOL
Lawrence Slater

No, not guilty.
Dave O'Neill2

Lawrence,
My T9 installation wasn't a kit. I bought the essential parts like the bellhousing and made the rest, including a concentric slave (Ford version, not Saab) and shortened gear shift extension. Hence position of stubby gear knob is more or less as standard.

I know that I am not the only one to take an angle grinder to a normal long input shaft. Although the splines are slightly further forward, they are not so different as to cause problems. Most of the extra length of the shaft is in the end nose section which is longer.

The thickness of the spacer (mounting block in my case) for the concentric slave is dependant on the position of the clutch cover plate fingers, not the length of the input shaft. The shaft just needs to be short enough not to bottom out against the bottom or shoulder of the spigot bush when the bell housing is bolted up to the engine back plate.
Guy

Thanks Guy. I think most people think as I did, the long shaft is unsuitable, hence a fair few must get overlooked when they come up for sale.

I've just dug out the paper work. I paid about 360/400 quid for the complete kit excluding the box, which I got in a local breaker for 40 quid.

I wanted to get all my bits seperately but didn't know where to get the bellhousing and prop. So I bought a kit. It was pretty good, and went in with relative ease, but it would have been nice to do it more cheaply, or just nice to have assembled it all myself for the satisfaction.

Mind you the cost has rocketed now if you look at the Moss offering. Craaaaaaaaaaaaaaazy price.

When I pull my engine this summer and swap boxes, one thing I want to do is ID the part number for the Saab slave. If I ever need an O ring, I have no idea what size it is, or the thrust roller bearing. I don't know which Saab it came from, and the guy that did the kits has long since shut up shop I believe. I also want to double check on the clutch used. I seem to remember it was a 7.5inch Escourt job, but I've lost my list of parts, so I need to look.

Who sold/sells the bellhousings?
Lawrence Slater

I got bellhousing from Birmingham Morris Minor centre. All together my "kit" cost £220 complete. I did the concentric clutch as a separate exercise a couple of years later. That cost me around £40.

Like you, it seems, I am never very good at recording and keeping adequate records. Its amazing how quickly one forgets! I have since then started a diary in which I try to remember to add notes on all car work that I do.It is so easy to get confused as to whch ones had what done to them and when! This often includes other cars owned by various offspring. This includes my car-mad son who is currently on around his 80th owned car. And guess who does much of the mechanical work on them!

Guy

80 cars? Lummy, that's a huge amount. I can't remember how many I've had, but nowhere that amount. Keeps you from vegetating then? :)

Your dead right about memory too. I thought I did mine somewhere around 12 years ago, but my paperwork, what I have left of it, is dated 1998. Where have the last 14 years gone?
Lawrence Slater

Blimey Guy. I thought mine was short but that IS short.

Bernie.


b higginson

This thread was discussed between 14/02/2012 and 20/02/2012

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG Midget and Sprite Technical BBS is active now.