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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Electrical Starting Issue

After dropping the dash a few inches to help get too the windscreen bolts, as the car had not run for a month or two I charged the battery and later tried to start the car, the car started but as soon as I released the ignition the car immediately stopped.

Whilst the key is fully turned the car runs but as soon as its released it stops.

My electrical skills are not great, but I presume I have caught a wire and broken the circuit from the ignition to the solenoid?

All the wires look OK at the ignition, has anyone any ideas on which wire if damaged would give this issue or have I jumped to the wrong conclusion?
Tim Lynam

Tim

Although your car is an early 1500, I’m hoping it has the ballasted coil. I would guess that the ballast wire has detached from one end - either from the ignition switch or the coil.

While cranking, the coil is being fed directly from the solenoid, bypassing the ballast wire, so you have a separate live feed to the coil. When you release the key, the ballast wire should be supplying power to the coil, but it sounds like it isn’t.
Dave O'Neill 2

Thanks Dave, a great explanation.

The coil has two white/green wires and two white/black wires, all looking OK so I presume there is an issue at the ignition connection.
Tim Lynam

Yes, almost certainly coil connection from ignition switch - maybe via a bullet connector but I'm not familiar with 1500 wiring.
Bill Bretherton

My Haynes manual - which is celebrating its 40th birthday this year - has the wrong wiring diagram for 1500s, even the later 1275s.

The MGB wiring diagram (which *should* be similar) shows one of the white/green wires coming from the solenoid, the other is connected to the ballast resistor - which I believe is buried in the loom - that in turn is connected via a white wire to the fuse box.

If you have a voltmeter, disconnect the two white/greens from the coil and see if one of them has any voltage present with ignition turned on. Then check which one of them has 12v present when you turn the key to 'start'. You will need an assistant for that part. The wire with 12v when starting is the one form the solenoid, so you can ignore that one.
Dave O'Neill 2

The connection on the white/green wire also looks good at the ignition end, will try a voltmeter at the weekend
Tim Lynam

There could be some confusion creeping in, as there may well be a white/green from the ignition switch which powers accessories. The coil supply is actually white & light green. I don't have the correct wiring diagram for a 1500, but with the MGB, it originates as a white wire at the fuse box.
Dave O'Neill 2

If you need a 1500 wiring diagram, I have found these really useful over the years:

https://midget1500.wordpress.com/wiring-diagrams/

Malc.
Malcolm

I've downloaded those diagrams and it seems that the Midget is quite different to the MGB. Typical!

If you download this image and enlarge it, I have marked the various parts of the ballast circuit in red.

You have two white wires from the ignition switch (38), one to the fusebox and one which goes to a multi-plug, before looping out of the same connector and going to the ballast wire. The other side of the multi-plug connector then feeds to the ignition warning light.

The first thing to check is that the ignition warning light comes on when you turn the ignition on. That will tell you that the ignition switch is working and that power is at least getting to the multi-plug. If it isn't working, check that you have 12v to the white wire at the fusebox.



Dave O'Neill 2

Dave, confusion and electrics go together well with me, being a son of an electrical engineer unfortunately I inherited non of his electrical skills, the great wiring diagrams that Malc has kindly posted a link too started very impressively with the gorgeous white de bumpered 1500 at the top of the page and then all was lost with the diagrams.

But thanks for highlighting the relevant parts of the drawing, yes the ignition light comes on all is good until you release the key and then the engine stops, but thats a great starting point if I can fathom the drawing when blown up.
Tim Lynam

Tim,
your (relevant) Driver's Handbook will have the correct diagram for your early model, with regards colours just note the code for colours -
. N = brown
. U = blue
. K = pink
. others are straight forward
. first letter is main colour with second letter as trace colour, e.g. LGG = light green/green.

Do check you have good wire connections to the spade connectors and that the spade connectors are a tight fit to coil and starter connections as they can expand loose especially the more modern ones.

Finding the ballast wire might be the tricky bit.

You can zoom in on this page for an idea but the colours are wrong - https://midget1500.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/white2.gif
Nigel Atkins

Tim

I've just tried saving the image, but the resolution is a lot lower than the one I uploaded, so it doesn't zoom well.

I can email you the original by return - daveo138 yahoo co uk

I've had my steering column out this afternoon, in order to access the exhaust manifold joint and engine mount bolt. It seems a DPO has butchered the ignition switch wiring with scotchloks, while fitting a radio. The plug on the other end of the ignition switch loom is also looking a bit corroded.

Edit: Nigel posted while I was typing - touche.

I was going to mention the error in the 'white' diagram - It shows white/red from the solenoid to the coil and from the coil to the ballast, where they should be white/light green.






Dave O'Neill 2

Dave,
those nasty "wally fittings" Scotchloks, it surprises me that Paul uses them. Have you tried using superglue to fill the gap left in the insulation when you remove them, does it insulate or used to close the gap?

What is DPO?

That's not corrosion mere slight moisture, I'm saving one to show Paul.

I'd no idea if the colour diagrams have error or if things changed in 1978 but they're still a great idea and undertaking and very useful.





Nigel Atkins

Could be wrong here but I think that 1500s have the ballast resistor hidden somewhere behind the dash. At least, those that still use one - it's not always required for aftermarket electronic ignition.
However, Spitfires (same engine as the 1500 Midget) and GT6s have one conveniently mounted next to the coil, as did the Triumph saloons I had back in the day.
If I had a problem with the original resistor and couldn't be ar*ed digging it out I'd simply bypass it and fit one for a Spitfire on the inner wing. Dead easy wiring job and at least it's accessible.

Tim, I think you're on the right track in your first post. Moving the dash has probably broken a connection between the keyswitch "run" pole and the coil via the resistor, maybe pulling a wire out of one of those nasty bullet connectors somewhere. Something like that. If you can't find the break it might be the easiest option just to bypass it and rewire it to a new resistor.
It wouldn't pass muster for a concours judge though, so go ahead and call me a bodger if you like!

PS: Hate Scotchloks too. Even I'm not that rough 😉
Greybeard

Thanks to all for your comments, I had wondered about running a wire from the ignition if I can find which is the dodgy white/green wire, I have never seen the resistor but then again I've never delved too deeply under the dash.

But for £11.20 for a new resistor I believe this is the correct part? https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/ballast-resistor-led-bulbs-170-965.html plus a length of wire to the coil it should be much easier than searching for the buried resistor? But finding the correct wire at each end may be tricky!
Tim Lynam

If there is a bad connection on the ballast wire, adding a new wire and separate ballast resistor may cause a problem, if the bad connection reconnects. You would effectively halve the resistance, thereby putting too much voltage through the coil.

If taking that route, it would be best to split the two W/LG wires at the coil, identify which comes from the solenoid and reconnect that one to the coil, taping up the other one.
Dave O'Neill 2

That ballast resistor is for led bulbs so would it even work for the ignition system?

(And why do Moss say you need it for LED bulbs on MGs or do they mean the ones they sell?)

The following is from Paul Hunt's excellent mgb-stuff.org.uk site so relates to MGBs (apart from wire colours perhaps) but I thought it's the same or similar for 1500s, or have I misunderstood?

"This resistance is not an identifiable component but a length of resistance wire contained within the harness. The resistance wire itself is usually pink with a white tracer, but has a white or white/brown tail at the supply end, and a white/light-green on a 4-cylinder or white/light-blue on a factory V8 tail at the coil end."

Cropped photo from Paul's site.




Nigel Atkins

Hmm.... bit of confusion creeping in. Dave is correct that a new wire and resistor could effectively reduce the resistance and oversupply the coil but, crucially, only if the existing resistance remains in circuit.
If the old wire is snipped at BOTH ends it does nothing at all and the existing resistor is similarly isolated.
Then it simply needs a new wire from the correct pole on the keyswitch straight to a Triumph type resistor and another from the resistor to the coil.
The resistor as I recall is a ceramic type with an integral mounting bracket. I'll have a look for the actual part later but I don't see why it wouldn't work. Everything else is the same including the circuit protection.
But have you had a good look at the connections at the keyswitch and behind the dash? Something disconnected is much likelier than something suddenly failed. And if something is disconnected it means that there is something potentially live floating around in there looking for somewhere to earth out, but might be hard to find. That's why simply replacing it is easier - it just saves a lot of hassle and headache.
As ever, other opinions are available.
Greybeard

I did suggest removing the possibility of lowering the resistance by disconnecting at the (easy) coil end and insulating. Not much benefit in disconnecting from both ends, particularly if it's not easy to find the other end, perhaps.
Dave O'Neill 2

A strange update and hopefully the fault has been found.

I was under the impression that the white/green cable coming off the back of the ignition barrel went to the coil with there being the two white/green wires at the coil. Sorry Dave I should have examined your wiring diagram better, so to see if that was the dodgy connection I removed it from the ignition barrel. I had also noticed that the back of the barrel was very loose and did not seem good

After removing the white/green wire and attempting to start the car, it sprang into life and ran perfectly.
But the white/green wire is actually the live feed to the radio!

So my assumption is that the ignition barrel is faulty as after fitting the white/green wire back to the ignition the car ran again, so I am assuming there is short/bad connection inside the ignition barrel.

But thanks to all for your help as I have learnt a little more about these wonderful cars and now know what a ballast resistor does and why it was added to the vehicles.


Tim Lynam

Tim,
have a look at your ignition switch, if it's the type (and I don't know if they are) that had a grubscrew holding it into the steering lock assembly then it might just be a matter of tightening it up.

If so I'd also remove it and give it a spray of contact cleaner (battery disconnected) I'd also give it a spray of switch lube/cleaner too if you have it.

I think I'm right for yours being the same(?), the white/green will be the supply from the accessories position of the switch, supply the wipers, blower fan and perhaps other stuff before the radio, they're off the in-line in the engine bay.

Do you have a relevant Driver's Handbook with wiring diagram for your year, it'll also have the what's off which fuse and ignition switch positions.

Nigel Atkins

ETA:
Tim,
just seen and remembered from posting on another thread - go easy with the switch, don't break it as replacements can be expensive, depending on your type possibly needing the whole lock assembly (with keys) or if just switch part piss-poor modern made quality.

Photo of switch 37H7708.

Second photo possibly(?) the wire to your ignition switch?






Nigel Atkins

Cheers Nigel, I have not checked how the ignition switch is held in, but the rear of the switch does not look healthy at all, but its not done too bad to last well over 40 years.

I have just checked the wiring diagram in the Handbook and it does show the white/green wire just goes to an in line fuse and radio.
Tim Lynam

Tim,
if the switch comes out it can be surprising how much better it can look and operate with a clean. That's not to say it's a certain repair for you but well worth a try if possible.

New switches *might*(?) be fine now but with so much existing old NOS about who knows.

I bought a new steering lock assembly complete a few years back as they were 25% off at the time and I needed one, it's been fine (after a bit of initial fiddling to get the steering lock part aligned to operate properly).

Removing the old shear bolts needed a (IIRC 6.5mm) long drill bit to make removal easier.

If you're able to scan and post here the wiring diagram from your DH as a pdf (rather than a jpg photo) at high resolution it'll help save confusion from the Haynes mistakes and later 1500 wiring diagrams.

As my example below (600 dpi) which at 500% zoom even I can read and see!
Nigel Atkins

Removing the ignition sounds a pig of a job having to remove the steering column, but one that looks like needs doing, unfortunately the ignition seems a bit too far gone to be repairable. Hopefully will be another item when replaced less to fail when out on the road.

Good idea about copying the wiring diagram to a pdf from the drivers handbook with it being the exact one for the model, its a bit marked and tatty, but blown up will be far easier to understand.
Tim Lynam

Tim
Do the accessories that only work with ignition on still work when you turn the key? If so, the ignition switch works and the problem is between the switch and the coil still. If the accessories do not work then the problem is the switch itself.
Bill Bretherton

are these any use - they've seemed pretty accurate - have them printed and laminated at a4

https://midget1500.wordpress.com/wiring-diagrams/
timmyk

Tim,
I was suggesting you put the pdf on here as my example (although I should have done a two page document with the second page being the page with the key for the numbers and wiring colours).

This would prevent the confusion and confirm the wiring (well as factory at least) as you see Bill also thinks as I did that the white/green is for the other accessories as well as the radio.

Removing the ignition switch isn't difficult if it's just held in by a grub screw, awkward maybe but not difficult as I can do it.

Unless yours is a lot different to mine removing and replacing the steering lock assembly (c/w ignition switch) is again easy as I've done it, and you don't need to remove the steering column.

It'd be a shame to replace any parts when cleaning and securing of perhaps a connection is all that's really required.
Nigel Atkins

timmyk,
thanks, yes they're useful, but they're for the 1978 which is a later model year than Tim's, they may have errors but are different anyway. Malc linked to them earlier in the thread which I selected the white wires link from it.

Haynes seems to have a wiring diagram which isn't correct so as always the appropriate Driver's Handbook is the go to. :)
Nigel Atkins

This is my ignition switch. It has six terminals and is attached by two screws, although it's later than Tim's, so might be different.

It's not actually that difficult to remove the column, if you need to. I took mine out this week, as it made it easier to get to the RH engine mount bolt and exhaust manifold flange.


Dave O'Neill 2

Dave,
is your switch this one - "has SWE and Germany; it has 6 terminals, and the numbers that appear to align with terminal spades are 57a (one spade), 15 (one spade), 50 (one spade), 75 (one spade) and 30 (in between 2 spades)."?

If so, was it factory original to vehicle or a later parts replacement.

I lifted the info from a post by John (J P Hall, Queensland, Australia) as that switch is fitted to his '73 BGT.
Nigel Atkins

Tim,
below is just an example of a grub screw and its position in the steering lock assembly that holds the ignition switch in. As you can see, if yours is similar/same, it's very easy to remove the switch part.



Nigel Atkins

Thanks gents for the pics, would be great if the switch is held in by a small grub screw or two screws as Dave's, will have a check.
Tim Lynam

Nigel, you were correct the ignition switch is held in by a tiny screw as in your photo, the later change with the two screws as per Dave's looks like a great later amendment, the switch was very loose as the grub screw was only just holding it in, the switch and terminals have had a good clean, but getting that grub screw to latch onto the switch is proving difficult. Did you use the original grub screw or have to replace with a longer alternative?


Tim Lynam

Tim,
just for you I've been outside laying with my back arched in the literally freezing cold, shoulders on the driver's seat trying to twist my arms into the footwell with a torch and sample No.4 pan head screw in my hands to offer up for comparison.

Yes I see what you mean that screw is very small (certainly much smaller head than on a No.4 size). Good news is that it's shiny and not black (on to a black carpet).

Here's what I'd do being non-technical. I'd get a bit of wire or blunted pin or whatever that's just the right gauge fit through the hole in the switch and steering lock assembly and use this as a locating pin. To aid getting the orientation right and to hold the switch to the steering lock assembly in position as you remove your locating 'pin' I'd use a good dob of bluetac or similar. This leaves both hands free to guide the screw and screwdriver to the now aligned holes without dropping the screw, too often.

Also, if you have one, have a magnet literally to hand ready in case you drop the screw. Be very careful if it drops as it may land on your clothing then as you go to stand up it gets lost (until your wife instantly finds it). Or it may bounce off you and then somehow it will go under the seat or footwell carpet.

Imagine in more or less the same place an even smaller screw than the one you have, that can barely be held with chubby little fingers and focussed on with wonky eyes, which is black and falling onto a black carpet, and not just once. If I managed to put up with the torment of that you can sort yours.

However, I was fresh out farting-about and can-be-arsed when my ignition switch played up as the locking mech was also a bit loose and key tumblers a bit worn so I replaced the whole steering lock assembly c/w switch as there was a bit of discount at the time (but they're actually lower cost now, I paid £63).

Now I do hope that's a before photo, what's that brown stuff on the white plastic wheel part?

In the photo below you can just see the numbers 1, 2 and 5(?).

Make a note of the switch number as it may help if you need to find good quality NOS (pre-1990s) - 157 SA.

Any chance of you being able to put up a pdf of your 'good book's' wiring diagram so we can confirm things for you - plus I can compare it with my 73-74 to see the differences.

Cheers, let us know how you get on.



Nigel Atkins

Nigel, I really appreciate you checking last night as I was doing the same trying to locate that little grub screw upside down and in a small garage its not a nice position for an ageing body!

But good tips, when your struggling at something supposedly so simple its good to have other peoples ideas from folk that have been in the same position.

I have attached the wiring diagram as a pdf, the old Handbook is a bit past its best and may not be the best to view but should show that the only accessory (60 Radio) is fed by the white/green wire from the ignition switch (38)

The picture was before a good clean as I thought Id give it a go of trying to save the old switch and the terminals are now nice and shiny but no idea of what issues may lurk below the brown gunge.



Tim Lynam

Tim,
I'm lucky I'm not restricted by garage space.

These type of jobs are quite simple otherwise I'd not be able to do them but they can be awkward, very awkward or very annoyingly awkward and it's sometimes comforting to know that others struggle too, not because it's difficult just bl**dy awkward. So you don't want to be in a rush or worry about anyone else that says they can do it in two-minutes.

What luxury models these 1500s are with individual switched and fused supply dedicated to the audio system, so we/I've learnt something from you.

Thanks for doing the wiring diagram, also very interesting. If you want I can offer a 30-minute tutorial on scanner tips with only a 15-minute multichoice written test after, no certificate.

I did think about suggesting taking the switch cover off to clean the insides but this always risks damage with something of this age and use and possibly only worth the extra risk if it's there's nothing to lose. And anyway you can do it next time if needed now you know how easy it is to remove and reinstall the switch. :)
Nigel Atkins

Tim,
just remembered - one thing that did send a shiver down my spine was the handwritten wire colours for a burglar alarm, if one of those has/had been added by a previous owner then that can throw up all sorts of 'fun' with the electrics.
Nigel Atkins

Blimey well spotted and yes spot on, PO had a burglar alarm fitted but that was long gone when I bought the car, all that was left was the alarm lock to set the alarm, but all wiring appears ok and I’ve not experienced many electrical issues other than the occasional old bullet connectors and bad earth
Tim Lynam

At 500% zoom these these sort of things really stand out. By the handwriting and terminology I'd guess the author was probably an older person and/or from an older generation.

I've also lifted your fingerprints and who knows in future may be able to replicate some of your DNA from the information. 😁
Nigel Atkins

Tim,
is it OK for me to offer your photo of your switch to Paul Hunt for his excellent mgb-stuff website?

He might want it but might not as the subject of switches and steering lock assemblies, for the B particularly, seems to have got very convoluted and confusing with the available original parts information from the time and different parts offered by suppliers using the original part numbers.
Nigel Atkins

Nigel, if it’s any use no problem.
Tim Lynam

After having lots of good help just in case anyone has similar issues in the future the issue was down to a failed ignition switch.

After fitting a new switch the car started perfectly and the problem is solved, thanks for everyone's help.


Tim Lynam

Well done Tim.

I had the same failure in the Diahatsu camper I had until last year. Turned out the switch was Italian made and no longer available. So I left the lock in place as it still worked as a steering lock and did some rewiring. I bought a small alloy panel on eBay with a 20amp rocker switch as a master switch and a momentary pushbutton switch for the supply to the starter solenoid.
It was marketed as a panel for race cars and even had a flip up cover over the start button.
I liked it. It solved the problem and the present owner of the camper thinks it is cool!
IIRC I paid less than 20 quid for it and I've thought since then it would look cool in the Midget - I'm tempted even though there's nothing wrong with the original arrangement.
Greybeard

"even though there's nothing wrong with the original arrangement"

Good thing Prop isn't able to see that. He'd be on it faster than you could blink.
Martin

Well done Tim and thanks for reporting back.

If you have the old switch still, just out of general interest and info, any chance of taking it apart for a photo of its internals, I assume it just plastic discs and contacts (perhaps a spring?).
Nigel Atkins

I was going to say that I wouldn’t mind dissecting it, if you don’t.
Dave O'Neill 2

If it comes apart and reassembles easily it could perhaps be cleaned up and passed on to someone else or kept as a spare.

The return from starting position feels quite strong so I've always thought they'd be at the bottom of the key barrel inside the steering lock housing. But I've taken things apart before to have something unexpectedly fly out and sometimes it's tiny and disappears forever.
Nigel Atkins

I have dug it out of the bin, I usually keep everything that's re usable for myself or others, but thought this was not worth keeping, I had given it a good clean and re installed it, there was an improvement but not good enough unfortunately.

It looks like its kept together by a rivet, Dave is more than welcome to dissect it and I could pass it on at the next Notts/Derbys MASC event whenever restrictions allow, but if I get it apart before I will post pics.
Tim Lynam

Just be interesting to know. Drilling it out to remove rivet and then to risk reriveting on aged plastic (or whatever) would have been too much of a risk without your replacement switch and now is just academic (nearest I'd ever get to being an academic).

Is it this rivet?



Nigel Atkins

It looks like it’s crimped rather than riveted.
Dave O'Neill 2

That’s the one, it seems the only thing holding it together, but my technical terminology is limited so whether it’s a rivet or crimped I’ve no idea!
Tim Lynam

Not so very different to the MK1 dashboard mounted combined lighting and ignition switch. No doubt one evolved from the other.

I refurbished my Frogeye one, opening up the back and expecting the internals to be in a state. They were actually pretty good. The switch had failed because of corrosion getting in under the crimped over heads and interrupting the continuity to the spade terminals. And in fact one of them had come away completely. 10 minutes with a bit of emery paper and then flooding some solder over the joints with each crimped over 'rivet' head and the switch works just fine again.
GuyW

I don't think that rivet is holding it together. It looks like it's crimped on four sides.


Dave O'Neill 2

Incidentally, the rivet isn't what keeps the back of the switch on. Look at the outside of the thing and you can see where the outer casing is crimped in at the edge. Bend these outwards with some pliers and the back of the switch can be eased away from the can.
GuyW

I also refurbished my mk1 ignition switch which had worn internal contacts for the ignition function, which I lengthened slightly with solder. Took several goes to fix it. All those crimped over contacts needed cleaning and soldering (externally) as I was getting a few ohms resistance which is significant at 12 volts.

Currently trying to fix the wiper switch (early push-pull-twist). One of the contacts came off in my hand (all of it including the internal part) as the bakealite (?) seemed to have disintegrated. I've managed to glue the contact back with superglue and, if it seems reliable, I'll fill the broken gap with JB weld or resin.

Rather painstaking as it took several attempts but the switch is virtually unobtainium!
Bill Bretherton

I was thinking of the rivet holding the internals together perhaps rather than holding the casing on.

And the tag at the 'UK' I thought might be for locating the switch assembly correctly but now I see the shadow from it I'm not sure.



Nigel Atkins

Not sure what that bit does, Nigel, but there is a locating peg and notch almost diametrically opposite, next to the double spade terminals.
GuyW

Bill, I bought what was advertised as the wiper switch for mine (original missing). Cost around £12 I think. It came in a green 'Lucas' box though from the burrs on the plastic bits it clearly isn't up to the quality of original Lucas ones. It operates as a push / pull arrangement. I don't recall a twist element to it. What does that do?

My heater switch is also a push / pull for the flap, and that does twist to turn on the fan. Like for later cars.
GuyW

Oops, I do mean the heater switch Guy!

Re. the 1500 switch, there must be an internal spring to return it from the start position, presumably?
Bill Bretherton

You had me confused there Bill!
Yes the heater switches are hard to come by. And although the ones for the various models look the same there are differences in the length of the inner and outer cables.
GuyW

My heart sank when the terminal detached itself. It's as if the bakelite has crumbled but it is 63 years old this year! I hope it holds.
Bill Bretherton

The knowledge of you guys on here astounds me, yes the 4 points highlighted were bent in to hold the plate with the connectors.

No doubt if I had taken it apart first and cleaned all the internal contacts it may well have worked again, but putting everything back in the same position would have been a problem.







Tim Lynam

Final couple of pics showing the internal parts.





Tim Lynam

The heater switches do appear on the auction sites from times to time. The later spridget ones (crackle finish dash) have a slightly longer cable so easily shortened for a Frog or Mk11.
Bob Beaumont

I may have this wrong, Bob, but I think the Frog one is slightly longer than the later ones. I think the position of the knob on the later dashboards puts the cable more directly in line with the flap valve lever so it's a shorter route. I know that the inner cable on mine was too short for the frog. I welded an extension piece onto it to get it to fit.
GuyW

Tim,
thanks for that. A bit like I expected but not the way I was expecting. So the start spring/return must be bottom of key barrel then as I suspected.

I wonder if it's a break down of its own materials causing the mess and staining or something introduced. If breakdown then probably only fit for bin (recycling?), if introduced then perhaps a good internal clean up would get more useful life from it.

ETA: I'm on a different machine at the moment and wow are things easier to see, text and photos, I can see its a centre punch now from your first photo.
Nigel Atkins

Hi Guy sorry a bit of thread hijack! Interesting, I found I had to shorten a spridget one I got from Andy Jennings to fit the frog. I would have thought the flat Frog dash is nearer the heater box than the curved spridget one but perhaps not.
Bob Beaumont

I don't know the origin of my heater pull/switch, but it was definitely too sort by about 1" 1/4 for the frog. At first I thought it had snapped but on looking closely I didn't think so. At first I tried welding an extension to it but the weld snagged on he outer and didn't last. Then I replaced the full length of the inner using a length of welding rod that I fashioned a ball to the top end, as original.

Comparing with my '71 car the position on the dash is nearer to the centre line of the car so the cable takes a curving "S" line to the heater valve, whereas the later car has a shorter, direct line of pull. But there are other potential variables and maybe these switches were also used on other vehicles?
GuyW

Bob/Guy

Have checked switch after leaving superglue overnight and it works so will fill exposed gaps with JB Weld or resin. At least with the heater fan, it's not critical.

Apologies to Tim for thread drift.
Bill Bretherton

there are 3 different length heater switches for the Spridgets post-Frog;
- a really long one for when the air flap was down the front of the inlet hose, by the splash shield
- one for the 'snail' blower
- and one for the later integrated blower/heater box
there may have been LHD versions too!
David Smith

The 1500 has the flap on the opposite side, so presumably that would need to be longer.
Dave O'Neill 2

Dave,
didn't the heater knob move too IIRC?
Nigel Atkins

David,

LHD Mk I Sprites had the heater and wiper switches in the same location as the RHD ones, wiper on the left and heater on the right. So, at least as far as the early cars goes, the cable and housing would be the same. I can't say anything about later cars.
Martin

Nigel

Yes, it would appear so. I don't have a copy of the DH and can't be bothered to go outside, so I've had a look in Horler's OSM. It seems that it swapped places with the choke, which would make sense, as the carbs are also on the 'wrong' side.
Dave O'Neill 2

Dave,
thought as much as I once owned an original 1500 Driver's Handbook (but not the car).

You are now the same as me, have the car but can't remember, and it's often too cold or wet to go a few paces outside to check - i.e. you're getting old. :)
Nigel Atkins

This thread was discussed between 02/02/2021 and 22/02/2021

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

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