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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Electronic ignition

Do you guys recommend electric ignition, if so where from and is it easy to install
Scott Coe

I fitted a Velleman K2543 kit https://quasarelectronics.co.uk/Item/velleman-k2543-electronic-transistor-ignition-kit years ago on the basis that it still uses the points but with much reduced current through them they lasted far longer, never had to replace a set of points after it was fitted and using the car as a daily driver. IIRC the condenser has to be removed but it was kept as a back-up in case the electronics failed, they never did. I fitted it in a die cast case and well insulated with PCB lacquer to keep off any moisture, it seemed well designed. Others will likely chip in with purely electronic designs which are easy to retrofit these days such as SimonBBC which seem to come up often https://simonbbc.com/electronic-ignition-kits/ .
David Billington

I have had the Simonbbc one for several years with no problems and also have a rotor arm and cap from them as well.

Trev
T Mason

- ETA: as usual, I was still typing this whilst others posted, I thought I was first reply. And David's covered an alternative I forgot about -

Some do others don't - I very much do.

There are two main types

1) igniter heads
these replace the nasty CB points and condenser and deal with only the top part of the distributor, leaving the bottom part possibly still worn and mechanical.

There are different makes, types and prices of these.

As with points and condensers you do need to be very careful when fitting the delicate leads to the igniters inside the dissy cap and allow for baseplate movement.

2) fully electronic (full) dissy
this is a whole new complete dissy that's electronic top and bottom. Once fitted and set up you leave them alone unless you want/need to adjust the timing because of altering other settings. I only know of two makes of these 123-ignition and CSI, both are no cheap.

The advantage given for retaining CB points is that you can do roadside repairs and adjustments with them (what I call farting about and being a roadside warrior). Where as, if the electronics fail unless you carry a spare you're buggered.

I've had my 123 fully electronic dissy fitted for 10 years, year round use and only need to clean the rotor arm and dissy cap posts (as you would with points).

Others will be along to give the advantages of CB points and disadvantages of igniter heads and say how you can restore the bottom half of the dissy (but it'll only last a few years before wear, certainly not 10).

Note, as you can tell I'm very biased against the nasty CB as they have let me down but I've never been let down by electronic in many tens of thousands of miles in various MGs and classics.

Over to alternative points of view (remember Barry Took) . . .
Nigel Atkins

Trev,
just for info, I bought a couple of 'red rotor arms' off both Powerspark and AccuSpark, all looked the same to me, nothing wrong with them but you can see the quality difference compared to a Bosch or Beru and they weighted a lot less.

I don't actually know how any compare with the DD ones as I have the 123 that takes Bosch not Lucas.
Nigel Atkins

I've had a real good run out of the Powerspark conversions , just the little module and chopper wheel that replaces the points,-Fitted heaps of them and no issues
Just check that the wiring is pulled through into the dizzy enough to allow movement with the vac advance and secure the wiring onto the old loom on the outside for support
Haven't had a broken wire yet but the wiring is fairly light and needs supporting to stop it flapping about
willy
William Revit

I replaced my knackered distributor with a 123. It took all of about 5 mins to fit and set up. Very easy.

Its been excellent so far, I'm looking forward to the next 9 years based on Nigel's comments.
Chris Madge

Nigel, it's so long ago that I fitted them, must be about 8 years without looking, that I cant remember now how the rotor arm compared but all were fitted together and have been no problem so far.

Trev
T Mason

Think I'm quite tempted with the simonbbc version, not a bad price either
Scott Coe

To answer your question - yes.
Its a personal choice. Some like the originality of contact breaker based system but I prefer not having to mess around with points and once its set up, it's maintenance free.
Mine has a Piranha system (much derided by some) but fitted 13 years ago and still going strong.
When it fails it'll be replaced by another system, something like the SimonBBC or whatever is available then.
Jeremy MkIII

Trev,
no problem, I don't think they were copying, sorry, having their own 'red rotor arms' made then, DD only dragged standard up in 2008 according to his website.
Nigel Atkins

Whatever you do dont buy pertronix, as they used to be good but the current ones are rubbish. I know of a few guys with yank tanks that have used them as theres not much else available to them and they are failing just out of warranty on a regular basis.

Trev
T Mason

I have an accuspark, cost about £30 and it's worked perfectly for years. No more points/condenser, work distributor doesn't matter either and it's so cheap that I carry a spare unit in the boot in case it fails. One important tip...don't use copper leads and electronic ignition! It fries the module, not instantly but it does.
R Cohen

Big fan of points. Easy to fix and easy to carry spares. For the mileage the cars in general do nowadays the don't require much maintenance. Different matter if your using it for competition though!
Bob Beaumont

I had a Pertronix (or possibly Aldon Ignitor is the same thing?) and it was great for years. But then had a spate of intermittent breakdowns which ended up with the ignition unit dying. I replaced it with a SimonBBC one so I'll see how it goes.

On my other more original car I've gone for points for old times sake!
John Payne

I always used Lumenition Optronic on the race cars.

My B is running with points.

A number of midget racers I know had no end of trouble with Petronix/Aldon Ignitor.
Dave O'Neill 2

Luminition set up in my 79 MGB since 2001. Never had an issue since converting from points, which kept collapsing.

Cheers

Gary

79 MGB
gary hansen

Scott,

It is just what you want, Maximum performance (programable) 123, or cheap (simonbbc version). Both are reliable. To program the 123 you need Windows and an usb cable. No need for a rolling road. To program the simonbbc to perfection you need more time, a lot of distributor springs and a rolling road. You can also buy a non programable 123 and chose on of the ignition curves. (almost perfect). I choose for the 123 because of the always changing fuel regulating on the continent. (at the moment E 10)

Flip
Flip Brühl

I've got a Pertronix circa 2010 and it's never missed a beat after 30,000 miles. I carry a set of points and condenser in my tool box, but I was going to buy another Pertronix as a spare in case the current one ever did break down, but if what Trev and Dave say is true, I don't think I'll bother.

Why is it almost always the case that something that works well and consequently sells well, has to be messed about with, no doubt for cheapness of manufacture, only for it to become crap? Surely the manufacturers are shooting themselves in the foot.

I might look at 123 though.

Bernie.
b higginson

Bernie, as you say most manufacturers are hell bent on reducing cost at the expense of everything else these days and people are becoming conditioned to accepting this. To most companies quality is a dirty word these days.

With regard to Pertronix I have heard it said that production has moved to China but not sure if that is the case.

Trev
T Mason

Bernie

The Pertronix that I know people had issues with were well before 2010, so maybe quality improved.

No idea about current offerings, though.
Dave O'Neill 2

This thread was discussed between 15/10/2019 and 20/10/2019

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

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