MG-Cars.net

Welcome to our resource for MG Car Information.

Recommendations

Parts

MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Engine lifting and removal

Two questions:

i) Is it OK to lift the engine on the studs without the head in place or do I risk bending studs?

ii) After a couple of early experiences with Mum's midget Dad and I have always removed engine and gearbox together. However bearing in mind the Datsun gearbox mounting is a bit fiddly I'm wondering about trying engine only. Does anyone with the Datsun conversion have any experience of this please?

Thanks.
Jeremy Cogman

1. I always lift the engine / engine gearbox out using straps under the engine.

2. If you have the radiator out, there should be sufficient room to move the engine forward, off the gearbox (supported), then up and out. If an A series engine, it is possible, without a hoist, to "slide" it out the front of the car, assuming you have removed the rack, and the front panel assembly, and most of the ancillaries.

Note I do not have the datsun conversion (but I do have a hoist, if you need one, I see you are in Hampshire too....)
Tim Carter

I have had my 1275 out three times this year, first to junk the rear oil seal conversion, then to recondition the original gear box and presently to fit a 5 Speed conversion. Each time I lifted the engine with small brackets fitted to the rocker cover studs. The only problem I had one of the brackets bent the corner of the Austin badge on the rocker cover - my car is a Sprite and the badge was perfect before the mishap. One advantage of using the studs is you can set the hoist chain with 5 links to the back and 2 to the front. This tips the engine nicely so the sump can clear the bonnet slam panel. If you have one of the engine tilters that fit to the chain this wouldn't be necessary. My hoist isn't hydraulic, there is a long scew that you work with a lever similar to a starting handle. My mechanic friend who helped with refitting the engine (I removed it single handed) has a pneumatic one but was impressed with the screw since you can adjust the lift within a fraction of an inch. Surprisingly the engine and attached Ford Type 9 gear box went in easier than the original set up. The remote gear shift housing is lower on the Ford and fits into the tunnel with room to spare.

I don't think it possible to rmove the engine without the gear box with a 1275. On my car the front pulley / damper is very close to the crossmember and even when the engine is tilted the sump would then be in the way.

Good luck

Jan T
J Targosz

It is possible to remove the engine without the gearbox, and is my preferred method.

Even if I need to remove the gearbox, I remove the engine first, then the gearbox on its own.
Dave O'Neill 2

I remove the engine and Datsun transmission together using the rocker studs.

I removed just the engine only once to replace the clutch when the Ribcase was still running. I believe that it was more difficult to remove the engine separately than to pull it with the transmission as it was difficult to bolt back up.

Having the transmission out provides the opportunity to replace transmission mounts, check the main drive cover (which tends to break using the Rivergate setup), check for rear transmission bushing wear and oil leaks and to properly set the clutch fork fulcrum ball prior to reassembly.

I have had the Datsun 5 speed out with the engine several times. By now the heater duct is mashed up enough to provide easy clearance for removal and replacement. This has not affected heater air flow.
Glenn Mallory

I usually remove the cylinder head before taking the engine out, because it's much easier to get enough torque on the nuts. It also lightens the load somewhat. Then I use a rope under the engine and a nylon line block and tackle. Last time I took the engine out separately, leaving the gearbox in. This saves me draining the gearbox oil, and that dreadful job with the prop shaft connection to the diff. I removed the gearbox mounting bolts from under the car and loosened the ones inside. Trolley jack under the bell housing to tip the gearbox up. I have never used the lifting eyes, because I don't have any and they have never looked very secure to me.

The mistake I made when replacing the engine was that the clutch slave cylinder was full of fluid and couldn't be compressed, hence the release bearing was jammed against the clutch. I spent hours trying to work out why the bell housing would not close up to the block. Yes, I had used the correct clutch centering tool.

Sorry, I don't have a 5-speed, but I hope this is of some help.
Les Rose

You have to remove the radiator.

I split too. I find it much easier. Engine out first, complete. Followed by box if the box needs to come out.

I wouldn't take the two together, esp' if the box doesn't need to come out. Just a waste of effort and extra time. Same as with the rib cage. I can't see why it should be different with a dastun box.

I use nylon rope round the engine mounting bracket on the distributor side, and through the block flange holes on the exhaust side. Dozens of times over 46 years, and never a problem.

I don't like the head stud or rocker cover stud method.

But what ever works for you best, is best for you. 😉









anamnesis

This thread was discussed between 24/09/2023 and 26/09/2023

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG Midget and Sprite Technical BBS is active now.