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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Engine Lumpy?

My engine (the wife's) starts to run lumpy (as if it's missing) when you get to around 50-60pmh?

I took it to a local garage and had a full service on it and all new parts (bought them myself) - plugs, points, dizzy cap, rotor arm, leads, everything changed but still has this problem.

I have noticed that the fuel pump sounds noisy on start up?

Any help advice please.

Just a note we use the unleaded additive, which I don't like!

Thanks
Bob
BOB FOX

Hi Bob,
that could be a number of things,
timing
carb tuning
those spiteful contact breaker points might need resetting, they should be checked after I think 500 miles but often don’t make it that far before readjustment is required
faulty new parts, cheaply made rotor arms and points are favourite – rotor arms from Distributor Doctor - http://www.distributordoctor.com/red-rotor-arms.html or somewhere that sells similar as they all seem to be jumping on this bandwagon as they did supplying cheap nasty rotor arms – although any new part has the potential to be faulty
fuelling – carbs, filter
check obvious things like HT leads and other wires, connections being fully pushed home

do you know if the tappets where set?

what work was done at this service?

what model and year of car is it? (you could add details to your ‘Vehicle profile’)

a full service covers the whole car – details are in the excellent Driver’s Handbook - http://www.mgocshop.co.uk/catalog/Online_Catalogue_Handbooks_5.html

is the car used regularly and gets the occasional good blow out?

fuel pumps tend to be noisy at start up, and other times, so it depends how noisy and if it’s nosier than usual for the car

personally I wouldn’t bother with the lead additive unless you’re driving the engine hard but as far as I know it wont harm anything using it other than your pocket
Nigel Atkins

Lots of good points. I keep thinking about the fact it happens at 50-60 mph... I wonder if at that speed your timing belt is slipping, hence you're not getting a good spark. See if its loose and try tightening it... it might be time to replace it.

Just a thought
C L Carter

If you took it to a garage and they did a full service, and presumably charged you for it, then I would take it back and complain.

Nigel is correct about his list of possible causes, but if you paid someone to fix it then they should honour their work obligations.

The fuel pump should tick rapidly when you first turn on the ignition, but after maybe 10 to 15 seconds it should stop clicking, or only give a quiet click every 30 seconds or so. If it continues to rattle away it could be drawing in air or there could be a fuel leak. In either case, it may be supplying enough fuel for lower speeds, but struggling to keep up when you get to 50 or so as you describe.

PS Timing belt ??!
Guy

thing is Guy what's a full service (apart from what's in the good book of course :) ) you could add oiling door hinges ect.

Bob has only mentioned the engine that’s not a full service

I agree if the garage was asked to do a full service this thing would probably be covered or should have perhaps been spotted but a full service includes a lot of labour and most midget owners wouldn’t be prepared to pay for the labour required for a full service

so without knowing what the garaged was asked to do it’s difficult to know if they should have spotted this fault

the garage my have introduced this fault themselves even or it could be the parts supplied to them that are at fault – as I have very bitter costly experience of

by all means I’m sure the garage would look at the problem but it might incur further charge

or it could be very simple making a visit back to the garage inconvenient and unnecessary
Nigel Atkins

Again, Guy is right - they've been paid and should fix it.

Can't say I'm impressed by alot of these so-called "Classic experts" - the BGT was bought from someone who used one of these, and they were rubbish ....! So, I think the more complaints directly to them, the better.

However, it really does very much depend on which model/which cam/which timing chains/any other mods, including petrol pump - some of the aftermarket ones run all the time!

Also, with regards the additive - are you sure that the head hasn't already been sorted to take unleaded?

I'm sure that it's something really simple, and it's up to the garage to find it - and tell you what - after all, they can see and hear the car - and take it out with you to test it at that speed, which none of us can.
rachmacb

I think rach was probably typing as I posted

whilst I agree and have much experience of bad garages as you know I must point out that there are also many bad customrs - not that I'm suggesting Bob is a bad customer just balancing things

I'd add when I put checck wires/connections I should have included things like battery connections and leads and earth straps for all being clean, secure and protected

and air leak at manifold?

PS yes I noticed the timing belt bit too :)
Nigel Atkins

Im not sure i understand the term "lumpy" at 50 to 60 mph

Do you mean the engine is missing as in running on 3 cly

engine is surging back and forth

That the engine sounds like its falling of the cam every other revolution

Or is lumpy at 50 to 60 mph... Mean something else to you

Prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

ETA: yes, if convenient, taking the garage person out on a 60 mph run would probably sort the issue (if it's a good garage and I'm not saying it isn't)
Nigel Atkins

LOL Nigel - as it happens, the guy I purchased the BGT from was a lovely man - just had the mickey taken from him AT GREAT EXPENSE from a seriously over-rated garage who proclaimed themselves as being classic car specialists. At the end of the day, I'm not going to say that this is by any means restricted to just classic cars .......... However, that's going way off topic, and I'm sure that Mr Fox is more interested in why his car isn't working! :)

To most people, a full service is just as described, and, certainly I don't think that the oiling of door hinges is, in this instance, causing the problem ;) LOL and dear Prop is sending him off in a totally random direction, however, it does demonstate the need to take the car back - as they have been paid for this, and, presumably it has got worse since the service, which suggests to me that the garage has actually been the cause of the problem .......
rachmacb

Well maybe I misinterpreted Bob's message, or read more into it than was intended.

I thought that the car had previously run fine and then developed this fault causing it to start to run lumpily over 50-60.
This would imply to me something failing, or a new fault. Rather ruling out things like modified camshafts etc.

I thought also that he had taken it to the garage for a service in the expectation that they would solve this problem, and in supplying the parts listed was expecting that they would at the least be doing a full engine service (with or without reference to the handbook?)

The problem with starting to check and look for faults at this stage is that it could undermine Bob's case for taking it back to the garage and stirring things up with them. That is why I suggested going back to them as a first step.

But Bob, If you don't feel that is appropriate for whatever reason then the next step is to identify whether the fault is electrical or fuel related. Drive it up to the speed when it begins to feel wrong and watch the rev counter. If it starts to flicker then the fault is with the LT side of the electrics. It is the first easy step in diagnostics!


Guy

Ive seen belts made out of chains... Remember the 80s heavy metal bands....hahaha

Im just guessing at what a lumpy is at only 50 to 60, i think ..at 50 to 60 we would be most likly in 4th at 3500 rpm

So what happens in nutreal with the engine at 3500 rpm for a sustained 2 minutes

When i think of lumpy at 3500 rpm... Im thinking carb related as in a worn carb piston, a broken dash pot spring, 2 completely differant oils in each dash pot, a blocked carb vent...aka gasket behind the air filter... Maybe a worn jet needle from being misalined

The next area id look would be fuel line and pump...im wondering about a minor stress crack in the metal fuel line that would be sealed at low rpms but with higher sustained rpms the flow of fuel would creat a soort of vacume that would suck in air and loose the fuel pressure flow...same concept at the fuel pump as in a wornout / damaged diapram

What will freak me out is if there is no lump in nutreal stand still with engine running at a sustained 3500 rpm

Interesting thread

Prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

X 2 guy... We are wearing the same shoes...your interuptation was exactly what i belived to be the case

Rach... Im not sure how im leading bob off down a differant path... All i was asking was to better define what lumpy means at 50 to 60 mph means.... The reason i ask, at that high an rpm its really hard to hear a ....lump lump lump lump lump .....sound

Prop
Prop and the Blackhole Midget

LOL I dunno Guy - I thought so as well ....., the points about the other stuff was incase he decided not to take it back and try and work out what's wrong with reference to people who don't know what model/year it is - and can't hear or see it ;)!!!!!!

Please Bob, take it back to the garage - especially if it's as a result of what they did - and get THEM to sort it out - as THAT is what you paid for. If they do not - then take it up with Trading Standards. The only other thing is, whether or not you take new parts - ask to see the old ones, as proof that they did actually change them. Whilst I am not saying that all garages are bad, it's just that some are :)
rachmacb

Oil level in carb dampers(?)

As Bob is not able to reply yet (or doesn’t want to ) I think we can continue the debate

Sorry rach I was referring specifically (or actually at all) to your BGT chap just generally

as far as the term ‘a full service’ goes I’d say that each of us has a different idea of what that means which is why Bob and his garage need to have a clear understanding of what it means related to the work Bob expects it to be and what the garage understand it to be – that why many garages have printed schedule sheets to prevent confusion and comeback

it’s another reason I always suggest the Driver’s Handbook as it has service schedules which can at least be used as a starting point – a full service is quite involved and alters depending on time or mileage

I doubt if any garages carry out a full service as many of the items are things an owners should be taking care of anyway and as I’ve put each garage tends to have their own versions of a full service

I’ve just this week arrange a service for my wife’s car as initially they were only doing an interim service and I understand why – most customers what the least cost options – nowadays brake servicing is not included in normal servicing it is an extra service! and (unless things have changed) some dealers have the brake service as merely just one step up from a visual check by no actual remedial or service work that’s at extra charge to the normal service and brake service!!!

as for the parts that Bob supplied to the garage IF they are faulty then it's all at his cost to replace them and the labour but the garage might supply the replacement part without charging for labour if they've not been upset

as I put before the garage might have introduced or missed the source of the problem but that's not certain
Nigel Atkins

LOL Nigel - no offence - just bugs me when I see the money that the poor bloke spent!

I think that we're all agreed - Bob Fox should go back to the garage - and see what was done and if they mucked it up!!!!!

Sorted :P!
rachmacb

Hi Bob
Just noticed this thread and havent read all the responses but not doubt they are valid.
However why would changing everything electrical potentially cure a problem that is more than likely fuel related?

Typically when an engine is cruising (30 to say 60MPH)
Then mixture is extremely important and yours sounds typically a weak mixture, did you ask the garage to tune up the cars fuelling system?

Where in Humberside are you? and what engine is in your car?
Bob Turbo Midget England

yes carb tuning/mixture has been covered

and debate on what the garages was asked/supposed to do

parts bought by Bob (as far as can be seen) before visit to garage - or thread
Nigel Atkins

Hi everyone and wow thanks for the messages, I didn't realisr I would get such a good response.
I'm quite new to this as you can tell!!!
I should have made myself more clearer and given more information.

Sorry car is a 1966 MG Midget 1098cc.

I purchased the car for my wife at christmas as a present for her, (I got some socks), it hadn't been run for over a year apart from getting an MOT in the November before (2011).

I drove it home over 250 miles and when I set off and was going slow (like you do when driving something different) it ran fine. I was taking it easy and driving through villages with a big smile on my face.
It wasn't until I started to put my foot down that it started to run like it was missing, but not missing as in a regular way, it was only every now and then.
At first I thought it may have been a fuel issue, but after stopping at a petrol station and filling up, it was just the same?

This is when I took it to a garage, it's a garage near where I work and he's a good lad, I asked him to replace the parts which I'd purchased and do the oil and water etc.

When I was driving home again slow at first is was fine, but when I went faster it was just the same. It always seem to be around the 50mph mark.

It's not used much as it's a second car and the bodywork does need some loving, but everything works and it's T&T until November, it's just a shame about the engine running problem. I don't want to let the wife out in it incase it breaks down and leaves her stranded, as we live in the sticks!

I'm not clever enough to find out what it could be hence my cry for help!

Many thanks again and I will read all replies.
Bob
BOB FOX

Hi Bob,
That is a cunning move - buying your wife an MG for Christmas!

There are a number of possible causes. Some should have been ruled out by replacement of the parts at the service, But I still think that a good garage should have been able to detect and solve the problem, assuming you alerted them to the issue.

I could suggest some guesses, as I am sure others can too, but what is needed is a logical fault-finding approach. Which is why I would start with observing the rev counter behaviour first. Its a good and easy start point.
Guy

Bob,
as other Bob has put it's probably fuel and air mixture with the carbs

what your car needs is just a full and proper service and setting up correctly

then regular use as they lay up last year will just have put in wrinkles you need to get out now

oil and oil filter change is a good idea but you don't mention air filters

all of that is not that important what is much more important is that the brake system is fully serviced and in good condition and that the tyres are not too old regardless of tread depth left

the cars are very simple but probably need mechanics and garages that are used to working on old cars

I find a good link for you to help you with your car

ETA: typing whilst Guy posted
Nigel Atkins

I'm sure someone will be able to recommend some one your way for work on your car if your lad isn't use to old cars with points and carbs

This DVD has on it the very useful Driver’s Handbook that gives you loads of user information for your car, the Handbook you’d have got when the car was brand new

I normally prefer paper copies but for your model there’s not a new paper reprint so it’s the DVD or keep looking for a s/h paper copy

it also has the factory parts catalogues and the factory Workshop Manual which you will find useful during your ownership

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-HMCC3009DVD

you want to treat regular and routine services as preventative maintenance rather than as repairs to help keep the cars reliable plus as I put before regular use will help with reliability whereas not using the car is more likely to hinder reliability

these cars can be made very reliable (not always straight away) with full and proper servicing, maintenance and repairs and regular use

I like others on here use mine as my one and only daily car

To help you with not needing to repeat what car you have you can set up your vehicle profile and add a photo if you want, it’s easy just click on mine or anyone else’s ‘View vehicle profile’ then scroll to the bottom of that page and follow the instructions, it is easy with instructions and can help save confusion and guess work later
Nigel Atkins

My MG Midget 1500 has the same issues, however it seems to be rev dependent. I drive it around like normal for about 20 minutes, and although it feels normal in all gears and at all revs it is very sluggish.

After about 20 mins, or so I put my foot down, and the car feels empty, it just shakes, as if it wants to do something but doesn't know what. At 3500 revs it stops responding to the accelerator pedal, and won't go any further.
G A Reynolds

I did tell the chap at the garage and he did suggest me bringing it back and they could try and sort it.
The air filters are them chrome pancake type ones (K&N) and they was OK.

It's just I live in the sticks and a round trip of over 40 miles, plus if I drive it to the garage on my way to work and they cannot get it fixed in time etc, I'm stuffed for getting home. Plus it's a bit of an experience driving from my house to where I work in the Centre of Hull, specially when it's not running right.
(Them bloody Audi Driver's aaahhhhh they don't like being held up)!!!!

I will try the rev counter test this weekend and let you know the score. I have a Haynes Manual, but it doesn't give any ideas in it?

Thanks again
Bob
BOB FOX

Does anyone know of someone who could fix this in my area? HULL!


BOB FOX

Bob,
yes getting it back to the original garage can be inconvenient as I put before but to be honest it should/could be easy for your chap to sort, tell him you need the car to return home that night and arrange a day he can have it to look at

drive at 49 mph - I did whilst having a gearbox problem for weeks going up and down the M6 - Aldis should be quick enough to get by if not it's not your worry

for you (and me) generally the Haynes isn't as good as that DVD

having said that the Haynes does have fault finding sections, usually things like this amount to either fueling problems or electric/ignition

for electric watching the tacho helps speed up diagnostic

trying to run the car on the cheap at the start usually works out more expensive in the medium and long run, getting the car running well as soon as possible and driving the car regularly on your 20 mile trip would be ideal to building it up to blow out runs and pleasure runs

as you don't know about the car the quickest way to learn about it is to have the Driver's Handbook and drive the car regularly

good luck
Nigel Atkins

Lovely car Bob - and I'm sure that your socks were very nice!!!!!!!

Thanks for the further information - it really does help to have as much as possible - as you've already seen, it does end up being a total throw of solutions to problems that you don't even have if you don't - all very well meaning, but totally useless for you :)

Firstly, sorry, don't know anyone in Hull.

Secondly, if you can get it back without doing too much else to it, that would make it easier on the garage - and stuff the Audi drivers - there's plenty out there who hold US up!

Now - as to the car - IF they are proper K&Ns - do you have the uprated needles and also some stubstacks if they are the pancake ones? Both of these can cause problematic symptoms - especially if they were fitted by the previous owner, and then the car not "opened out" for awhile.

One of the things I will agree everyday with Nigel over is the necessity of driving the car regularly and with lots of spirit! The engines are old, yes, but, good use can keep them good - and sometimes they just get a bit "stiff" - not a technical mechanics term, but, does the same as your symptoms - depending on what revs you are reading at the time. It happens particularly on 1975 MGB engines I find - usually solved by thrashing them to within an inch of their life - apparently!!!!

On the other hand, don't get hung up about the drivers manual that Nigel recommends all the time - some people get on with it - others don't - try and see whether you prefer that or Haynes - it's a personal thing! The Haynes manual does give a basic diagnostic test - it's just getting used to it and finding your way around it.

It may well be carb problems, or not properly set up - you'll want to do this anyway.

Otherwise - as for meeting people in the local area - there's three clubs that deal with the Midget - MASC, MGCC and MGOC - all very different, but, all with people in who may give you a hand - they all have websites which show your nearest meetings.

Good luck - lovely car.

rachmacb

Bob
Have been reading the thread with interest. If you know which end of a screwdriver to hold, then I would advise you try to fix it yourself. I know you said you are new to all of this, but so was I not so long ago, along with many others on the forum.
The guys here will happily help you step by step, and you will soon learn your way round the car. It will increase the fun you get from the car 100 times over.
It really is not that hard, if you learn bit by bit. And once you solve the problem, you will feel really good about it. Almost waiting for the next thing to go wrong so you can fix it (or maybe not).

The guys on here know much better than me but the first thing I would probably do , mainly because it is so easy, Is pull out the spark plugs to see what colour they are.

Good luck
Graham M V

I totally agree with Graham about learning to work on and maintain your car yourself. These are very basic motors and there is nothing complicated about them. We can discuss things endlessly here and perhaps sometimes make issues where none really exist, making things sound more difficult than they are. But the cars are basic, the principles involved very simple and they are easy to work on.

But saying this doesn't fix your problem. If it was convenient to do so, I would still take it back to the garage. But do the rev counter test that I suggested. I very much suspect it is not an electrical fault, but as a starting point the test would confirm this.

Of course if you really want to get it sorted and know for a certainty that it is running at its best, then Peter Burgess and his rolling road are not so very far from you at all. Especially if your 30 mile commute into Hull is from the South side! (he is somewhere around Matlock I think)
Guy

As you can see there are varying opinions which usually is a good thing

rach’s highlighted a couple of good points, problem solving needs a logical step by step system of diagnostics, usually questions and answers, if only in your head or on paper and the K&N pancakes can have stub stacks and require different needles to run properly throughout the full rev range

as you done a 250 mile run that cleared the old petrol through but as you didn’t open the car up how about trying driving above 60 mph (were legal of course) and see if things get worse or better

for non-mechanics I think the Haynes is not the best book to have plus it does contain a few errors, I think that this is much better than the Haynes - the Porter Manual, it’s very good but does have a few minor a few typos too, in specifications – MG Midget and Austin-Healey Sprite Service Guide (Porter Manuals) – grab a bargain here before someone else does -
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MG-Midget-Austin-Healey-Sprite-Service-Manual-/300696333678?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4602e5ed6e

the Driver’s Handbook to my mind is a must for new owners

ETA: Peter is at Alfreton but you want the car full serviced to get the best out of a rolling road - I'm there next week
Nigel Atkins

LOL - ok - I'm going to have to disagree with you on that one Nigel - the rolling road is not just for power runs!!!!!!! Just make sure you have plenty of oil in it :P

If you could get it to Peter, then it would help in getting to the bottom of this problem - and I daresay he'd also give you some hints and tips and show you how to set up your carbs etc - all part of the joy of owning an old car .....!!!!
rachmacb

sorry I didn't make it clear as it was a rushed added bit as I was typing whilst Guy posted so I didn't see Guy's post until I posted

I never use a rolling road for power runs I use them to improve the running, make things more effecient, theorectically you should get better mpg but of course you never do because you can now drive that bit harder and so you do

infact I didn't bother getting a print out at the place I went before Peter's, not because it was low, quite the opposite

the point I should have made was:

certainly take it to Peter to set it up to run (much) better perhaps even off the rollers but to get the optimum settings it needs to be on the rollers and before it goes on the rollers to get the best out of the session it's best that the whole car is fully serviced and maintained that way you can get the most out of it, setting at its optimum

for those that want ego power runs and print outs I can suggest somewhere that gives very generous optomistic readings and print outs

to me it's all about how the car feels and goes not what a dail or print shows they're just gauges to guide you, if you drive your car regularly you know how much real world benefit you've gained from a rolling road session

Peter Burgess in my experience of rolling road tuners (only 4 tuners in 20 years) is great and excellent value, hence I have no hesiration in recommending him and returning my car to him for further RR work

I'm sure with my improvements and peter's skill we can crack triple figures :)
Nigel Atkins

Nigel, I wasn't suggesting Peter's for power runs and print-outs. It just occurred to me that if Bob happens to be 30 miles SW of Hull, then he isn't so far from Alfreton. And since the stumbling problem is certainly engine related I am sure that with Peter's experience and equipment it would be a sure-fire way of nailing the problem. I just think a session on the RR would be money well spent!

Oh, and no-one else had suggested that particular line of attack!

Peter may like the free recommendation. Equally, he may not want to work on a car that isn't running right in the first place! I don't know. Maybe I was wrong to presume too much, in which case apologies to you, Peter.
Guy

Guy,
I was with you about having Peter look at the car but as rach has suggested the carbs may need different needles which would require a session on the rollers possibly to really pin down

plus as I'm also, along with many other things, unless at geography and wasn't sure how far from Buxton Alfreton is and was thinking of Hull being further north

if Bob's car is fairly standard apart from the K&Ns then it should be able to be serviced and set up to run on the standard needles

once the car is serviced, set up and running well then certainly get it on to Peter rollers to find the extra you've been missing

the bit about power runs was in reply to rach's post

Bob's 20 miles from the centre of Hull, that could be in the sea from what I know of geography :)

this time next week Guy we'll be in N. Yorks, probably one of the pubs then Friday at the Fat Lamb for Fri/Sat night at Fat Lamb and Sunday Lunch 28 cars at your place :)
Nigel Atkins

In relation to my earlier comment, describing almost the same problem. I drove the car today, and the problem worsened, eventually ending up in the car being visited my the AA while on the roadside in Barnstaple.

The issue was with the points, they had corroded and closed up, therfore not allowing the engine to perform properly equally one broken down Midget (car not me) no the side of the road.

Therefore the moral(e) of this story is to check the points.
G A Reynolds

sorry your post got missed GA

personally when I got a new to me classic, after the safety items, I'd first think if the battery needed changing and second as soon as practical to replace the points with electronic, the points are one of those nasty fiddly jobs to do at the side of the road after you've totally forgotten about them because the car is running fine

points are part of regular servicing, nowadays with the quality of new it's best to keep working points and just clean them

whilst your doing the points you're supposed to lube the cam and oil the dissy which are very often forgotten and the dissys need all the help they can get to function near well

for Bob who had new points I did put
>>those spiteful contact breaker points might need resetting, they should be checked after I think 500 miles but often don’t make it that far before readjustment is required
faulty new parts, cheaply made rotor arms and points are favourite<<

Nigel Atkins

Mr. Fox,

I can remember having similar symptoms when running a car with a dirty fuel filter. Does your car have a fuel filter?

Keith
KTM Moore

Hi Bob

I can't believe people are suggesting a rolling road to set up a simple engine? "god help us all!!!"

Alfreton is a long way from Hull simply to sort a small problem with a car?

Bob I live near Scunny t'other side of bridge if all else fails and will gladly sort your car out if you fancy a drive over. Unfortunately Tonight I am repairing my MGF gear change cable, tomorrow I will be Autotesting in my Midget and Sunday I will be "driving my Classic at Grimsthorpe Castle (MGA or Midget not sure which?) so it would have to be one night next week?
Bob Turbo Midget England

Well Guy and Nigel - now that you've got me into trouble with Peter once again!!!!!

Nigel - I was saying that, he'd already DONE the service that most people view as servicing - whether that's by your book or not - and so he was fine to go - and get to the root of the problem!!!!!!

I did take my BGT over for a very long drive, as sadly Peter isn't that close to me - and he got to the root of the problem that had been eluding several of us - and an array of other diagnostic items that can be thrown at the cat .....! So, it's not just a case of setting "up a simple engine" - but to actually get to the root of a problem should it prove NOT just that, which, the symptoms suggest - after all - you wouldn't go to the GP if you've got a broken leg!!!!!!!
rachmacb

TurboBob,
I suggested the rolling road as a possiblesolution on the basis that this is a new car (to Bob) it would resolve the problem and give him confidence that the car is set up properly for him for the future.

It seemed to me to be a better solution than either the scatter gun approach of replacing random parts ("plugs, points, dizzy cap, rotor arm, leads, everything changed but still has this problem")
or the wild shot in the dark approach (so far suggested points, fuel blockage, tappets, carb tuning, timing, wrong jets,dirty filter,fuel pump, stub stacks, incomplete servicing, ......!!)

It needs a logical diagnostic approach which I am sure you could provide!

(PS Rachel, why, has Peter commented now, I missed that?)

Guy

LOL Guy - naw - I just live in fear ;)!!!!!!

Having said that, since chatting to Gary on Sunday, I'm no longer in dread of all my engines going "BANG" as I was told to drive it until it inevitably did - as he was told the same thing and Gaps still sounds awesome <grin>!

Got to say - WHAT GUY SAID - sums up what I was saying exactly too - just better :)
rachmacb

As you are aware Guy I agree entirely that an illogical approach to setting up an engine is simply useless. However if it is possible to sift the wheat from the chaff so to speak it should be possible to set up an engine AS SIMPLE as ours without the need to get too exotic.

If I am wrong then perhaps I have been lucky, my Turbo has NEVER been set up on a rolling road and does extremely well, also my MGA which has a sidedraught 45 weber fuelling it has never been set up on a rolling road.
Both cars have been on rolling road "shootouts" that have confirmed they are set up very well so I am either very lucky or perhaps our cars are not too exotic in nature.
Bob Turbo Midget England

Bob Turbo Midget England!
Thanks for your offer I may take you up on that as I live in a village called Patrington about 15 miles out of HULL.
If you think you can get the wife's car running as it should I would be happy to let you do it, I will obviously pay you for your time and any other expenditure that may occur!
I'm not in any rush (would like to get it sorted for when the sun comes out), but will bring it whenever is easier for you.
I do work full time during the week so this could be a problem, but any weekend, anytime would suit.
Let me know if this would be OK?

Cheers and thanks everyone for your input!
BOB FOX

TurboBob, You are right, and several, myself included have commented on the simplicity and benefit of learning to work on these engines.

The difference at the moment is that one Bob already has the experience to correctly set up the engine, whilst the other Bob has yet to acquire that level of experience. Until you came along no one was actually offering to go over and help.

Sounds now as if a two Bob solution is the best plan.
Guy

well good on Bob for helping Bob

it'll be interesting to see if anything else turns up in addtion to mixture

if you want 'bragging rights' for roller figues I know a place where you can practically push the dail round with your finger to the number you want :)

perhaps like old MoTs you could get roller figures via a phone call :)
Nigel Atkins

"like old MoTs you could get roller figures via a phone call :)"

Not just the old ones Nigel - I happen to know of one obtained in just such a way only last summer!
Guy

probaly another reason why you have to prebook your MoT now and not able to just drop in and see if they have space

I think most of us (usually) law abiding folk don't see or understand the reasons for some of the blanket procedures now just because we are (usually) law abiding and don't think of the fiddle

although some of us still think there should be momentry lapses in the regulations for our own particular circumstances and convenience and that others need the regulations applying to thethem but not us :)
Nigel Atkins

Thats great Bob I would love to have a tinker.
My email is rjwelchmidget"at"aol.com
So send me an email and we will arrange maybe next weekend for a sort out. :)
Robert (Bob) Midget Turbo

Nigel
I am obviously to naive. What was the fiddle before pre-booked MOT's?

Nice of Bob to help out! Fancy a trip to the South ? :)
Graham M V

Graham,
I've no idea what the fiddle is as I'm (usually) law abiding :)
Nigel Atkins

I had a similar problem to this on a TR. It was crap trapped above the needle valve in the rear carb. Took ages to find as the fuel bowl was only emptying at high RPM and subsequently would fill back up at idle. If the car had been sat for a while I'd look at the fuel system from tank to carbs, could easily be some trapped sediment.

Paul
Paul Barnes

This thread was discussed between 18/04/2012 and 22/04/2012

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