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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Engine re-fit: What else to fit?

Hi

Without going into a previous terrible long story my brothers midget 1500 is currently sitting in Stockholm with a seized engine. I have located a suitable (I hope) used engine in GB and found a helpful garage in stockholm to fit engine.

It is about 20 years since I worked on MGB engines and never a Midget.

Garage is not experienced with MG or GB cars. Lots of experience on Merc, saab etc.

They are happy to fit a complete running engine for me but do not want to get into stripping of fixing existing. hence the engine I send should be complete and running (with carbs etc) - I can do tappets, points, timing and carbs when I collect.

I will then drive car to Norway where it will stay permanently.

Although the Stockholm garage does not want to get into too much extra work I would like some things done to minimise future problems. I need to get their agreement in advance to do some extras. Basically I need to decide now, not wait for Stockholm garage to inspect and suggest.

I would appreciate comment on the following + suggestions for anything which you feel is a "must" while the engine is being fitted.

The engine going in is from a car with 80k on speedo.
I know there could be lots of unanswered questions about the replacement engine, I would really like to get one from a caring MG enthusiast, but having spent hours on the internet and on the phone I am buying an "unseen runner" - ie came out of a running car.

1. Should I fit a clutch plate? Can we get away without a complete clutch kit?

2. Gearbox had mild oil leak, don´t know which part (think it is not from rear of engine), what seals are easy to fit on gearbox? Can someone direct me to photos of where seals are fitted so that I can show the guys in Stockholm "how easy it is"

3. Is it worth replacing crankshaft rear seal - is this straightforward, after removing flywheel?

4. What else should I be considered - don´t want to spend lots, but if spending now will save for the future then spend now.

Sorry this was so long, but hope it clearly identifies the decisions I need to make urgently.

Thanks Colin
PS Car has set of AF spanners and I will send a set of AF sockets.

Any other special tools? eg Clutch alignment tool ??

C Kinsella

which gearbox has the oil leak? why not just use the other one?
David (davidDOTsmithAT stonesDOTcom)

I think one of the most common faults on the 1500 engine is excessive end float on the crank, which can cause all sorts of problems from clutch not releasing to low oil pressure! You need to get a workshop manual for specifications and procedures for your guys in Stockholm otherwise they are going to have problems.
Graham.
Graham P 1330 Frogeye

Hi Colin,

1, For me a whole clutch kit is a must, as you say yourself spending now will save in the long term. If you don't and it fails you'll be kicking yourself very hard indeed as your having to get all that hard work you've just done pulled apart!

2, As for gearbox seals, there are 2 main gaskets and 1 rubber seal, check out here for their locations

http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=1323

Gasket between the bellhousing and the gearbox is easy to replace, though take care not to lose the 3 springs recessed into the gearbox face, and notice the bottom bolt of the 5 holding them together should have a copper washer.

3, as with point 1 again check here for location of seal but simple to fit

http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=1376

A good explanation often for the problems Graham describes come down to thrust bearings, as shown here

http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/thrustwashers.htm

4, anything you don't want to have to get to again in a hurry, starter, clutch, gearbox etc. To give your engine the best chance of success rocker/waterpump/waterpump housing gaskets should be replaced really a full gasket set should be on standby ;)

hope this helps
D Prince

Colin,

My thinking is....You got the WRONG shop, these things are easy to pull and re-install, But it takes a real mechanic or an old mechanic with british experiance...to really make this work.

Seriously, get a manual, some rope, an old oak tree and do it yourself...if its going to be "Just" an engine swap...and dont pay the guy more then $300 for doing this super easy 3 hour job.

Id really recommend a good british shop, that knows what they are doing, your correct to have concerns, pending how long you want to keep it, If its a long time, Id do a good stock rebuild...as long as its stock easy, fast and cheap...performance is another issue

if its going to be sold in 2 years...Then new bearing shells, and thrust washers, oil seals, and clutch assembly, and maybe new gasket set.

If its sold in the next 6 months...stick the new one in, enjoy and only do whats needed imediatly.

Think about this (Inexperianced) shop this way...If they where docters, and you needed to have your appendics removed, and they can do it in under 20 minutes...thats cool, but if they dont know what to do if something goes wrong, and its up to you to get your bloody body off the table and find another docter to remady the situation....Are 1st, those docters the ones you want....after all I bet anyone can take out your apendics, but it takes someone having gone to school for 20 years to learn what to do if something goes wrong.

Prop
Prop

What Prop says.

You need a different shop. The Stockholm garage hates your puny little car already. They have attitude. I tell you right now they will never even get your car road-worthy. After taking your money.

If you can send an engine to Sweden, can't you ship/tow/ferry the car to England for about the same price? At least then you will have your choice of shops familiar with your vehicle, which will save you both money and especially headaches in the long run. You won't even have to worry about #'s 1 thru 4. Your chosen British shop will do all that for you, or at least knowledgeably inspect, then inform you what needs/should/might be done.

Sounds like a great trip, good luck and I hope you get the car running!

R
Richard 79 1500

Thanks for the comments everyone.

Regarding gearbox seals:

D Prince refers to the diagram on Moss Motors site.

http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=1323

Am I correct that items 2, 46 & 66 are the 2 gaskets and seal?

I am not too keen to ask these quys to split the box to fit 46.

Could anyone rank these 2 gaskets and seal as the ones most likely to be leaking ie is there a reasonable chance that 2 (the bell housing seal) and 66 (the rear seal) may fix the leak?

I presume the top gasket (31) is unlikley to be a problem.

Is 66 the very last item, is it just a matter of forcing it out with a screwdriver and tapping in the new one until it stops?

Can both of these seals be fitted without having to renew the gearbox oil (ie turning the box 180 deg for each install?

Should the gear oil be replaced, or is the old oil likley to be OK?

Thanks ColinK

PS can anyone direct me to good images of removing gearbox bolts from body.





C Kin

I cant help you with the gear box questions except with how its mounted and the oil qustion


There are 4 bolts that hold it to the body...2 under the body that hold the front mount...which Im sure you found, The next 2 are on the tranny tunnle...(oppisite sides) on (your UK) paasanger side about 2-3 inches above and to the rear of the oval shaped rubber grommet seal that is used to install tranny oil is a bolt, thats 1 and about the same place on the other side is the 2nd bolt.


Yes you want to replace the tranny fluid....more to the point, you want to drain the fluid 1st before you remove the drive shaft, or your gonna have a god awful mess that will takes years to get rid of.

Prop...Not into black magic arts of transmissions...Prop
Prop

No need to drain the oil from a 1500 gearbox before removing, it has the drive flange bolted in place unlike the a-series. You simply have to undo the 4 bolts that bolt the flanges together! Enjoy!!

Carl
C Bintcliffe

Ah,

Thanks carl for that bit of info, I didnt know that. something to remember

Prop
Prop

This thread was discussed between 13/07/2009 and 20/07/2009

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