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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Fitting Brake Servo (only for Believers!)

Let's not get into the arguments for and against servos AGAIN. It's a bit like front wheel bearings as a forum topic, or "should I carry a spare wheel?"

I want to fit a servo. I see that they come with one length of ready-made hydraulic pipe which is intended to run back from the servo to the 4 (5?) way connector on the right hand inner wheel arch. THe present master cyl to connector piupe is then reformed to feed across to the servo.

I think my existing pipe looks too short. Maybe the PO-1 who did the (poor) refurb job put the junction fitting too far back so the pipe is shorter than standard. Is reusing this pipe normal practice or have I missunderstood something? If I wanted to buy an extra bit "ready made" the lhd pipe would appear to do the job (at least in the Moss picture) as the junction fitting seems to stay in the same place on the rh wheel arch so it is intended to run across the car from the master cyl.

Any suggestions?
G Williams (Graeme)

Buy a flaring tube, some fittings and some pipe or find a friend that has all this stuff.
Daniel Stapleton

Daniel: I had thought about that option but came to the conclusion that for the relatively short single piece I need it would be an expensive route to go down.
Flaring tools seem expensive to start with, and then buying tube in anything less than bulk.....
G Williams (Graeme)

Gday Graeme
The cheap flaring tools are useless, I bought some pipe, cut it to length allowing for a generous flare, then found a local brake company who flared the lot for 5 quid. HTH
R W Bowers

Graeme,

As a 'pro camp member' when I fitted mine, I measured up the piping required using old electrical wire to run the route and went to a local car parts company who made them up properly with excellent flares.
Not very expensive and made in copper so also easy to shape.

I replaced both lines to and from the servo.

Will look for a pic - may have the lengths somewhere also.

R.
richard boobier

Pic 1


richard boobier

Pic 2




richard boobier

Thanks Richard and RW. I was just suprised to be informed that "you reuse the original pipe" whereas mine is a long way short for the purpose. I came to the conclusion that the 4 way junction was in the wrong place but perhaps it isn't! No-one is saying that the original fits ok.
G Williams (Graeme)

Richard: did you use the set angle created by the "out of the box" bracket? First thoughts when I just dropped it roughly in place was that the nose end was looking high against the line of the bonnet.
G Williams (Graeme)

Graeme,

I cannot remember having to alter or redrill the bracket.
Mine was boxed as a 'Powertune' brand but I failed to see any difference at all with the Original version at Moss - even the instructions printed were the same - and as printed in Daniels book.
As I noted on previous thread I did fit a manifold non-return valve from an MGB and managed to get the vac pipe to form the 'swan neck' as shown.

My pipes have fairly generous radius's around servo etc and are routed as pic's in front of the heater etc to original 4 way union.
My pipes worked out at 1.4 metres long (both).

R.
richard boobier

Thanks Richard.
Local garage (Morris Minor specialist) will make up any extra pipe I need. My servo is a Powertune too. There doesn't seem to be a lot of room around it despite having "pancake" air filters on the carbs. There is scope to drop the angle but I'd rather not have to redrill and rebend brackets. Just looks close to the u/s of the bonnet.
G Williams (Graeme)

This thread was discussed between 03/06/2013 and 06/06/2013

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG Midget and Sprite Technical BBS is active now.