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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Frogeye - order of rebuilding rear suspension

I'm intending to fit the underside components to the Frogeye over the next few weeks. I'm unsure about the best order so would appreciate opinions. The bodyshell is sitting on a wheeled angle iron frame I made with good underfloor access currently. It is painted and stonechipped. I will need some new nuts/ bolts/ fittings as I proceed and the wheels are not painted yet so this will all take a while.

How about this order:

1. Radius arms and checkstraps to body
2. Fuel and brake lines roughed in
3. Fuel tank (with sensor/float fitted)
4. Handbrake cable roughed in
5. Rear springs put in loose
6. Rear axle (without diff).
7. Radius arms connected to axle
8. Diff. bolted in
9. Secure brake lines to axle and handbrake mechanism.
10. Connect fuel line to tank
11. Fit front suspension including rack, track rods and discs/ hubs (disc conversion)
12. Rear half shafts and brake cylinders/ shoes/ drums
13. Exhaust (standard) roughed in
14. Roadwheels
15. Remove from supporting frame with jacks

Have I made any glaring errors or omissions?


Bill Bretherton

You may find that you need to fit the rear springs before fitting the shock absorber / top link mounting brackets. I couldn't get the U-bolt in with the top link bracket in-situ on mine.

Loosly fit the rear shocks before the radius arms, it's easier to access the bolts.

Once you have offered the axle up, be prepared to remove one or other top link mount bracket and fit some spacers between the bracket and the rear heel board, so that the top link bush holes line up with those holes in the top of the rear axle. You may then find that you will need to open out the holes on the triangular stiffener through which the shox and top link bolts pass.

Put plenty of anti-seize compound on the shackle pins that secure the axle to the springs / top links.

Just my tuppence worth...
Simon Wood

Couple of thoughts,

I found it easier to build the complete axle with diff,half safts,brakes etc on the bench and then install the whole assembly .I fitted the fuel tank after fitting the axle so I could get better access.
Bob Beaumont

Thanks Simon and Bob, this is exactly what I need to know. Of course, I forgot to list the shocks!
Bob, did you not find the assembled weight of the axle difficult to manouvre?
Bill Bretherton

Simon,

Did your car not have the 3 D shaped spacers each side on the heel board to space the radius arm bracket over the stiffening rib or are your saying yours needed additional spacers.
David Billington

Bill

I lifted the axle into place on a trolley jack. Once I had located the axle on the ends of the springs it was fairly straightforward. I put the spring/axle pins in loosely first and then connected the radius arms.

I used plain washers to pack out the radius arm bracket to clear the stiffener rib. There were no D washers when I stripped it.
Bob Beaumont

David, no the original D spacers were lost amongst the rust so I had to improvise. I'm guessing that my welding was also a couple of mm out so I had to pack one side a little more than the other
Simon Wood

Like Bob, l would fully assemble the rear axle first. Not least because in a narrow garage ( like yours, Bill), you may struggle to get enough space at the sides to insert the half shafts!

For fitting, sit the diff on a trolly jack saddle and trundle it into position, raising it to meet the spring shackles and radius arm bushes. Then jack it further to connect the drop straps.

On mine, l left almost all the bolts just finger tight until it was back on its wheels. I also left fitting the tank until after the axle and all of the brake stuff was in.
GuyW

Bob, Guy
You've convinced me - I'll build the axle up first and fit it before the tank. Yes, there could well be an issue trying to insert half shafts in my garage!

Thanks everyone for your comments.
Bill Bretherton

This thread was discussed on 01/10/2019

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