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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Frogeye wiring loom revisited

Following Guy's long thread in 2017 I've finally got round to making a wiring loom for the Frogeye, so thought I'd revive the thread for anyone interested but without having to read through all of the orginal. I worked out the individual cable requirements a while back but it's so easy to miss the odd one or make the wrong assumption!

Even up to the day of ordering parts, I kept changing my mind, especially about cable type. In the end, it was decided by available suppliers and cost. Autosparks are the cheapest and with the greatest colour range but currently closed. So I used AES. I've had to compromise on cable colours, specifically those with "tracers". Also I'd considered using the simulated braided cable but it's expensive, mostly doesn't show plus I'm not going for concourse and I'm not using a regulator or original fuse box. So, thinwall it is, mostly 1 square mm (16A). Because I kept changing my mind, in my haste I bought the wrong Lucar female spades (!) so will change them in due course to match the thinner cable, although I've temporarily crimped them on to establish cable lengths.

I made a metal plate which screws to the existing captive nuts on the rear of the inner wing (intended for regulator and fusebox) and drilled and tapped it for a 6FJ 4 way fusebox and a 4 way relay box. Two fuses as used originally and two for high and low beam. Relays are for high beam, low beam, horn and stop lights.

I'm currently running individual wires to establish lengths, after which I'll temporarily tie them (using short lengths of mains cable) before wrapping with cloth tape (plain). So far so good! The car will have a 1275 engine with Lucas 16ACR alternator so the main charging cable (to starter switch) will be heftier (33 or 39A thinwall).

I have some questions, which I think relates to all models.

1. I assume the horn attaches to the r/h front chassis extension, in which case what supports the cable once it leaves the inner wing clamp?
2. Does the rear cable feed attach to main loom at the bulkhead or inside cockpit behind dash (my original was in a mess when I removed it). (I'll use a 6 way spade connector for bonnet loom at bulkhead).
3. Should there be a loom support behind the dash? Is it screwed to the threaded stud, upper centre?
4. Where does the flasher unit attach to body?

Enough for now I guess. I know what I'm doing in theory but some of the practical aspects are uncertain!



Bill Bretherton

Bill

I’d be interested to know how you’ve configured the headlamp relays and fuses.

I’ve been planning to fit relays to my B, but am yet undecided as to which way to go.
Dave O'Neill 2

Dave, does this help? (Original not inverted)!
There may be some controversy in that I'm intending to feed the ignition/light switch via a fuse plus each headlight relay has a fuse which means there are two points of failure in the headlight supply. But I can't bring myself to have an (as original) unfused supply. I'd rather risk the lights going out than the car going up in smoke.


Bill Bretherton

Bill,
From how I have mine:
1. That is where my single horn goes, so I am also interested to know that final bit of routing for its cable.
2. Inside the cockpit. I put a multiplug there as well, supposedly to make fitting the dash wiring easier, before installation. In practice it doesn't really help much because of the other connections - heater fan, wipers.
3. My loom behind the dash is so thick, it supports itself! I have cheated a bit and added a couple of loose cable ties, just to keep things tidy.
4. Mine is screwed to the engine side of the bulkhead, next to where the big cable grommet is.

In my case, I used brown wires between the fuses and to each of the relays. Logic to me is that I only wanted 2 of the coloured wires at each relay. i.e. Relay for main beam has brown from fuse to #30, a blue/white 'trigger wire' from dipswitch and a blue/white feed out to the headlight.

This was partly because that is how I wired up the other car where I was inserting relays into an existing loom. It meant in that case I could unwrap a bit of loom, cut the blue/white and use the existing cabling as trigger and feed out. The only additional wiring therefore required was a power supply wire to each relay.

If you are basing your loom on the standard frogeye one, don't forget to add a power feed for a fuel pump. And I put in a spare feed to the boot area in case I either want to add a reversing light, or possibly an interior boot cave light.

One tip, which I suspect you will already do anyway - document EVERY slight variation that you do! It's alarming (to me at least) how I almost instantly forget what coloured wire goes where and especially where I have had to substitute one or more of the tracer coded wires from standard.
GuyW

Guy
Thanks, really useful information. I wonder if the horn cable just clips to the washer bottle frame/ support bracket. Mine will be a single wire as the relay will be earthed by the horn button so the horn's earth can be local. I thought the flasher unit should probably be on the bulkhead - will drill a hole for it.

Your headlight cable colours make sense - I follow your logic!

I'd thought of a fuel pump feed but forgot to include it on my order list but the boot light option is also a good idea. I need to order more items anyway so will include enough cable.

You'd think I'd have a decent crimp tool but I'm using a basic B&Q one I used for some house wiring twenty years ago. It works but the uninsulated relay socket spades can be tricky.

And, yes, I will document the variations. Especially with the relays I have to think carefully which wire is which. Easy to go wrong!
Bill Bretherton

The horn feed runs in clips screwed to the o/s inner wing. It then is P clipped to the inner wing support bracket and runs behind the fresh air intake assembly. On mine I have dropped it down just behind the radiator support bracket as I have the horn mounted on the N/S but the wire can then just connect to the horn if mounted in the usual place. (I have an oil cooler mounted vertically where the fresh air intake would be).
AS Guy says there is a captive 1/4" nut for the flasher unit just to the left of the big hole for the main harness. A cross head set screw with a spring washer secures it.

The wiring behind the dash is retained (or should be) by metal tabs attached to the bulkhead. If the bulkhead has been repaired these are often lost. I found them to be useful as over time and the jiggling around on the road the wiring sags a bit if not supported and can hang down below the dash.
Bob Beaumont

That would explain it Bob. I replaced the bulkhead and scuttle top as a unit on mine. It came without any metal tags on the back although it did have the correct captive nuts and holes all in the right places. It seemed a well made item despite the omitted tags.

With regards to fuses for supplies to lights etc, I assumed that the nearer these are to the source of the supply route, the better. Like a consumer unit in a house being close to the incoming mains cable. Is that right?

Bill, are you using a multiplug for the bonnet harness?
GuyW

Thanks Bob, that completes the puzzle. I've just looked again and there is a captive nut for the flasher unit but no metal tags on the inside of the bulkhead so I'll improvise although thinwall is somewhat lighter.

Guy, yes, fuses close to supply makes sense. I have the original starter switch, which works but I wonder about its internal insulation. You don't want that thing to short! I've thought about a high amperage fusible link coming off the battery post but if it fused (unlikely) with the engine running, the alternator wouldn't be happy. A matter of balancing risks I suppose.

With regard to a multiplug for the bonnet I'm intending to use a 6 way spade connector that AES stock (male parts to bonnet). The other fancy ones they do are expensive.
Bill Bretherton

Just looking at AES again and they do a 7 way cylindrical connector for £5.57 although currently out of stock. I think I'm happy with their 6 way blade connector though.
Bill Bretherton

Just looking at AES again and they do a 7 way cylindrical connector for £5.57 although currently out of stock. I think I'm happy with their 6 way blade connector?
Bill Bretherton

Bill, mine is also a 6 way one and I will then add a braided earthing strap just to be sure of good continuity with the bonnet. Only slightly more inconvenient as it will connect between the earthing point on the bulkhead that the battery lead goes to, and one of the nearside bonnet to hinge bolts that need to come off when removing the bonnet anyway.

I have in retrospect made a slight error in having too short a spur off the main loom to my 6 way female connector. It's just 3.5" but would have been better at 5" or 6" as the bundle of 6 wires bound together with cotton tape is quite stiff. But then yours, using thinwall cable is probably a bit more flexible.
GuyW

Guy, I intended to fit a bonnet earth strap, exactly as you describe, in fact I can't see the point in running a cable earth round the bonnet i.e. earth the lights locally, same at the back.

Thanks for mentioning the spur, it's so easy to be a bit too short, that's constantly holding me back deciding.

Just received another Moss order with all the grommets plus various bits and pieces. Surprising how the cost adds up! I've also placed another AES order - hopefully everything I'll need electrically. I'm not sure about headlights - I have the original BPF type (proper Lucas, made in England) but silvering a bit variable. I suppose the spade type are better so I've included two spade connectors with tails in my AES order (good value).

I don't know if the thinwall is better or not - the 16.5A cable is only 1mm squared, nothing to it! But insulation is supposed to be at least as good.
Bill Bretherton

When doing soldered connections, I know that one really needs to clean them down afterwards to get rid of the corrosive flux residue. But what with? Is there a special cleaner. Something in an aerosol can with a short probe or brush on the nozzle perhaps? If not, then someone should invent it!

I guess a spray can of electrical contact cleaner would be ok?
GuyW

Practically any solvent you have handy Guy.
Contact cleaner, brake cleaner, meths - what do you have on the shelf?
Soapy water scrub is okay as long as water isn't an issue.
I resoldered the charger plug for our land rover last week and cleaned up with a rag and a dash of petrol.
Greybeard

I've never really fussed much with electronic solder flux and I've done loads of electronic soldering over the years. I just clean away excess with a small screwdriver but I think you can use acetone, maybe wire wool.
Bill Bretherton

I've never really fussed much with electronic solder flux and I've done loads of electronic soldering over the years. I just clean away excess with a small screwdriver but I think you can use acetone.
Bill Bretherton

Grey, Bill, I was thinking of something that would quickly and conveniently clean such small areas as a single soldered connection. Ideally without spreading mess around adjoining bits of the car! Given what you have said I think my solution would be a short blast of contact cleaner from the nozzle of a spray can, followed by a quick wipe with a cloth or paper towel.
GuyW

Guy - one thing that I've found to be a real godsend for cleaning up electrical contacts, including soldered joints, is a suede brush.
Like a miniature wire brush with brass wire bristles.
Meant to be for cleaning and raising the nap on suede shoes, if anyone still wears them lol!
I bought a handful from Woollies before they went out of business but I see they are still available on the interweb.
Absolutely the business for cleaning contacts IMO.
Just a thought...
Greybeard

Grey
I like the suede cleaning brush idea. I think physical contact with something like that is better than an aerosol. Of course sonething like a relay base is harder to get to but withdrawing and inserting the relay several times may be the most effective clean.
Bill Bretherton

Yes, I have a small brass-wire brush that I use for cleaning contacts. Never occurred to me it might be meant for shoes! But in this context I was just meaning for washing away the waxy remains of flux residues, for which I think a solvent, preferably a blast of it, would be better. Or as good!
GuyW

More advice on cable routes needed please. This is for the front loom attached to the Frogeye bonnet. It should seem obvious - follow the tags but I am not sure they are all there!

So from the o/side hinge it follows the line of the wing seam forwards. I presume this continues straight to the bullet connectors for the o/s indicator and sidelight. But where does the loom branch off for the o/s headlight, and does it then continue across to the n/side lights via the stiffener above the radiator, or further forward at a lower level behind the front valance?
GuyW

The wiring runs up the o/s along the seam secured by metal tags. It then follows the along the seam between the lower valance and upper bonnet next to the sidelight. Again there are tags. From there it goes through the top of the radiator cowling and along the top of the grille aperture. It then comes out of the cowling and follows the seam to the N/S side light. All retained by tags.

The headlight wiring is secured to the bottom of the inner headlight cowl by a clip. (similar to the one that retains the metal fuel line).
Bob Beaumont

Thanks Bob. I knew you would come up with pearls of wisdom! Very useful response.

I rather expected it to cross further back above the radiator cowling, where there is a conveniently positioned stiffener. But above the grill (still not yet fitted!) it will be then!

There will be branches,- road junctions- in the loom I presume, where wires diverge for each headlight pod. Where do the actual junctions sit for each of these? Presumably just before the loom enters the radiator cowl, and then again just after exiting?
GuyW

Guy
Picture I took before stripping front end. Hopefully should help. Some tags broke off when I was renovating.


Bill Bretherton

I'll upload an image of mine which may make it easier





Bob Beaumont

I also have another issue. This is the first time I've offered the heater motor up to the new shell. I didn't originally have an upper bracket so got one from Moss but, as shown in picture, the bracket is meeting the upper footwell panel too far from the captive nut. Is the latter in the wrong place? (Thanks for pictures Bob, useful for me too).
Bill Bretherton

Maybe this time!


Bill Bretherton

That's the correct captive nut. Have you tried swapping the bracket round. Of course it may just be another poor quality repro!
Bob Beaumont

Thanks Bob. Much clearer, pictures certainly help!

Bill, is your heater box in yet? I thought I had a similar problem to you at first, but when I fitted the heater box and pulled the motor housing down to get it to line up for the air duct, that top stay reached correctly.

Try that, and also just slacken the bolt at the fan end a little so that the stay will swivel easily. That helps.
GuyW

I'll have a fiddle with it this afternoon now I know nut position correct.
Bill Bretherton

I found the item from Moss (some years ago) was not the correct length and ended up making my own.

I think you'll find Ashley Hinton reproduces these to the correct cross-sectional profile and length.
Philip Sellen

Mine were Ashley Hinton ones. That top one did appear short at first but wasn't when properly fitted and tightened up
GuyW

Guy
I got sidetracked welding the hood frame supports which took much longer than anticipated (including a welder wire feed problem). Thought I might have to weld a bit of metal to that upper heater bracket but will do as you say and try it with the heater box. Tomorrow.....
Bill Bretherton

Another question - what attaches to the central downward pointing threaded stud under the dash? I've forgotten and don't seem to have a note about it.
Bill Bretherton

Its the dashboard. There is a slotted hole in the top. Its held with a nut and washer.
Bob Beaumont

Thanks Bob. Perhaps it's obvious when I offer the dash up properly!
Bill Bretherton

Bill, I usually just hang the dash from this stud initially, engaging a couple of threads. I then fit the two end bolts and come back to the centre and fit the washer and spring washer and nut and tighten everything up. It means you can fit the dash single handed! I wire the dash and fit all the clocks and switches and then lift the dash into place. Its avoids trying to be a contortionist which at 60+ is a challenge!!
Bob Beaumont

Thanks Bob. Yes, I'd thought wiring the dash before fitting it would be best.
Bill Bretherton

At yon side of 70, I find it quite comfortable and relaxing lying on my back in the car. A pillow in the footwell for my head, feet up on the rear cockpit coping rail. I could lie there for hours!(seat not fitted yet!)
The problem arises when its time to get out again! That is really hard!
GuyW

Guy
I trial fitted the heater box and the bracket hole was still about 2" too far left so I welded a piece on and it now lines up. So similar to Philip it seems.


Bill Bretherton

Oh, must have been further off than I realised. Sounds like a poor copy repro part. :-(
GuyW

I've glued fabric to the dash and cut holes through in preparation for dash wiring. There is a hole in the dash, as yet uncut in fabric, intended for cigarette lighter type power outlet but do I need it? I'm not sure but handy for phone charging. (Extra instrument hole is for voltmeter - I've a Smiths one that's been waiting 50 years for this moment).


Bill Bretherton

Looks good Bill. I haven't got an additional charging point on mine but its a personal preference I guess.( I just charge the phone before I leave!) I have an ammeter in the additional hole, its a Smiths one too!!

I used to have a radio slot but never had a radio as I could not hear it anyway above the wind and exhaust noise, it was filled with a nice varnished teak plate but I filled it in when the dash was recovered. I may have it somewhere
Bob Beaumont

I have the remains of the open front storage / glove box for the dash which I intend to restore.
Bill Bretherton

Another Frogeye wiring question.
I am wondering if I have a part missing from my speedometer. Should the ignition warning light bulb have some sort of tube fitted inside the speedometer to concentrate the light into The red warning lens? Mine works, but at present the light disperses out around the whole of the speedometer dial.

I know some of the later units used a tube of this sort, but should the frogeye have one?
GuyW

Bill if you use your phone for navigation then the charging socket is essential.

If you are a more traditional map man, or dont plan venturing far you dont need the charging socket.

Personally the charging socket makes life easier for me when out and about on longer drives.
Chris Madge

What Chris said...
My phone works great as a nav tool in the car. Better in fact than the factory fitted contraption (Volvo S80).
But... it sure canes the phone battery. Definitely needs the charger.
I plan to replicate the doohickey I made for Cedrics car for my 1500, which is very discreet. Would you like one for the Frog while I'm about it Bill?
Greybeard

Cannot really imagine why you would need Sat nav where you are Rob. There's not an awful lot of choice of different roads! East or West coast for the first 80 miles, then left or right? Too easy to get lost!
GuyW

Guy
Interesting point. I have stripped a few speedometers in the past and none had the tube. However I recently stripped a rev counter and there was a rubber tube connecting the lamp to the front of the gauge. I don't have any tubes on my car currently. Have you got the little red disc in the gauge, they are frequently missing?
Bob Beaumont

Grey, that's very kind of you, it may be useful. My email is:

brethertonwilliam(at)yahoo(dot)co(dot)uk

Guy, I have an older and newer type speedo. The older one has no tube but the newer one has, as far as I can see.
Bill Bretherton

My '71 car has one as well.
Maybe an evolutionary upgrade then.

Somewhere I have a spare 1500 one which I might canabalise, if I can just find where I put it. . . .
GuyW

Autosparks has now re-opened but too late for me (cheapest on cable and good colour range).
Bill Bretherton

Given the circumstances, I am impressed with speed of delivery of a small order from AES! Ordered online in Thursday evening, despatched yesterday and arrived today by Royal Mail (I thought they had cancelled Saturday deliveries)
Kudos for AES!

Looking back,I see I started making my own wiring loom 2 years ago and am only now bearing completing it! I did start it before all the bodywork welding and painting was done though. And although the main loom was completed I had left the entire bonnet win-win until now. When of course I found I hadn't ordered quite enough of some of the cables in the right colours.

Back tuit now!
GuyW

Sorry, I did edit out the odd predictive text entries, but operator error caused a malfunction!

I forgot to click on "update" !
GuyW

Guy, Royal Mail have only cancelled letter deliveries on Saturdays, not parcels.

Trev
T Mason

Well Trev, it was a parcel. But delivered by our regular postman coming round in his van. Maybe because it is a rural area so combining duties?
GuyW

Guy, the normal postmen are delivering the parcels, just not doing letters as well, which kind of seems pointless if you are doing the round anyway.

Trev
T Mason

Can anyone give a name to this sort of clip? And are they made for holding larger diameter pipes - this is a 3/8" one. I have tried various searches with possible names like "pipe clip" but not found anything the same. Part number or Moss gets the same thing, but not in larger sizes.

The relevance to this wiring thread is I am investigating a means of clipping the bonnet loom to the wing beading flange. Some (most?) of the metal tags are missing but I think a clip like this would work well except that the loop bit needs to be bigger to go around the bundle of wrapped wires.



GuyW

Guy,

They are called girder clips/clamp. Try RS components (rs-online.com) do them in sizes 4-12mm. They are used for holding wiring harness
Bob Beaumont

Some of my bonnet clips have broken or are weak on the seam. I was wondering about attaching strips of metal with a self tapper or pop rivet (as done on bulkhead) to the seam although my wing seams are now mostly V shaped due to filler hiding my welding!
Bill Bretherton

Some of my bonnet clips have broken or are weak on the seam. I was wondering about attaching strips of metal with a self tapper or pop rivet (as done n bulkhead) to the seam although my wing seams are now mostly V shaped due to filler hiding my welding!
Bill Bretherton

Bill that could work, But if you are drilling the seam why not just use a small cable tie. It won't rust then!
Bob Beaumont

The missing clips on mine are towards the front of the wing where drilling holes in the web becomes increasingly difficult because of the angles and obstructions.

I think the "girder clips" will do it though.

My phone does a clever thing - I think it may be a sort of Google feature. If you take a photo and then remember which symbols to click, it analyses the photo and pops up similar looking items. I have used it in the past to locate replacement bits and pieces. Unfortunately on this occasion AI wasn't clever enough and put up various photos of snakes and bits of twisted string!
GuyW

Bob, yes you're right! Guy, you'll be getting that cobra thing agan I guess!
Bill Bretherton

The wiring around the front ie adjacent to the side lights does actually stay in place without the tabs. I used to have a frogeye which I used for classic trialing (up muddy hills in devon and the like). The bonnet had to be metal. It was just serviceable and fitted where it touched! All the tags along the front had gone however the wiring to the side lights and the headlights was stiff enough to keep it away from the wheel providing it ran behind the radiator cowl as previously shown and was clipped to the lower part of the headlamp cowl.
Bob Beaumont

I have more questions about the wiring if someone could kindly oblige :

1. For someone with an alternator (though could be same for dynamo), how much cable length should I allow from where wiring branches from inner wing loom i.e. adjacent to brake light switch to alternator connector? I assume the distributor points wire also follows this route. (Engine not in yet).

2. Is it better to have the rear loom connecting up INSIDE the car i.e. behind the dash? The original loom connected at the bulkhead in the engine bay. In which case, where does the rear loom drop down the side of the footwell?
Bill Bretherton

Bill
I can measure the length tomorrow. My Autosparks loom has the rear section connecting behind the dash. The rear loom runs down the inner panel to arrive roughly in the middle of the cross member. Its held by tags. It then travels along the bottom of the inner sill (held by clips and self tappers) and then goes through the cut out in the inner B panel. It runs behind the inner wing strengether to the boot. There are various tags supporting it. It then runs along the rear of the boot floor with the wires to the lights and fuel gauge.
Bob Beaumont

Thanks again Bob, sorry I can't help with the mirror colour.
Bill Bretherton

Bill, I made up my loom with the rear loom branch (which is via a multi unit bullet connector) up behind the dash. Its at the top of the A post and from there follows the route as Bob describes. The length down the side of the footwell and then across the inner sill are done as my DIY version of a flat ribbon cable.
GuyW

Guy, now you remind me, you did previously say about rear loom connecting behind dash - seems a good idea. Also keeping wires flat down A post is good (I remember you posting about flat part across inner sill). I can't see how trim panels would fit otherwise!
Bill Bretherton

To revive this thread briefly, I've now completed the wiring loom - just need to make final connections to lights after painting. The last major part was the dash. I wired it in situ with the dash pulled forward and its rear pointing upwards to make it compartially easy. But it was, nevertheless, the most fiddly part of the job. I've been very generous with the branches to instruments and switches. I've re-used every switch, apart from the starter switch, which was beyond redemption. I stripped every switch and re-built it. You have to because, inevitably, the internal contacts are dull and create a small resistance. At 12v, every 0.1 ohms matters e.g. a 3A draw (coil, heater, wipers) drops 0.3v across 0.1 ohms or 1.5v across 0.5 ohms, which is significant. The ignition/ light switch (older combined one) was particularly troublesome. It is fiddly to re-build properly and I did this several times before I was happy with it. It needed the external brass rivets/ crimps soldering plus some I internal solder to make it reliable. I almost gave up on the wiper switch, which is push-pull and the shaft was seized. But they are tough switches and will take a bit of "persuasion". The heater switch (older type) is fiddly - a terminal broke away but I managed to repair it with superglue and JB Weld.

I have an alternator and have have put in a later RVI tach, refurbished and converted to -ve earth. I also have the later speedo which is calibrated for a 3.9 diff. I've also added a Smiths voltmeter which has been on a shelf for 50 years (works, including its bulb). I added earths to instruments as you can't rely on their metallic contact to the dash. All in all quite satisfying and everything works!

I learned the following (Guy might add to this...):

1. You can cut a wire too short very easily.
2. You can also leave a wire too long (after terminating).
3. You didn't order enough male bullets.
4. You didn't order enough of one colour.
5. You forgot to put in a bulkhead grommet before connecting a difficult control.
6. A wire for the most awkward male bullet pulled out.











Bill Bretherton

Two more pictures:





Bill Bretherton

looks good Bill.

As a suggestion it may be worth considering supporting the loom behind the dash. The original has metal tags attached to the bulk head roughly in the centre. I guess you could use large P clips. It can flop about over bumps etc and cause connection issues.
Bob Beaumont

Bill, I agree with all of that list! And add:
Not ordering enough wire - I calculated the total length needed for each colour but didn't allow for the fact that not all the off- cuts were long enough for the bits I needed, as I needed them.

Cutting the tails too short in some cases, in an effort to keep wiring neat ( where it couldn't be seen anyway!) and then finding wires reached their terminals, but were under tension.

Forgetting to put the insulating shrouds or lengths of heat shrink onto wires before fitting spade terminals ( I was soldering mine)

A couple of instances where I strayed from the correct colour coding and then forgot to note the change. This caused some confusion later but a bit of continuity testing did sort it out. - I had added extra feeds for electric SU at the back, an interior boot light and a spare to the back for possible later reversing light, but forgot which was which at the multiplug I had fitted at the top of the drivers A post.

Bill, I think at the stage yours is in the photo I would now fit some short lengths of that split corrugated plastic sheathing around some of those bundles of wires to each switch. Easily removable, but will keep them tidy and reduce chaffing.
GuyW

Bob, thanks, I've drilled holes in the bulkhead flange for plastic ties.

Guy, I have now put ties on the bundles, soon after that picture!
Bill Bretherton

Looking good Bill. You must be close to using the car on the road ?
Chris Madge

Fairly close Chris. I'm about to re-fit the front end and fit the lock mechanism and rubber buffers. It needs more paint so I can't finally fit windscreen, lights, seats and interior trim yet. Ran out of painting weather last year!
Bill Bretherton

Sounds like you are very close. Looking forward to seeing the car driving :)
Chris Madge

This thread was discussed between 10/05/2020 and 16/03/2021

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

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