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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Front Side Lamp Problems
An issue related to the current posting on Frogeye lamps. I have just attempted to replace a blown front side lamp bulb on my 1964 Sprite. The two chrome screws came out easily but the bezel and glass were solidly fused to the rubber gasket. Eventually I had to use a Stanley knife to remove them. The back plates, glass and bezels are perfect but the rubber gaskets are rock hard and have vulcanised themselves to both the body and lenses. I have dismantled and given everything a good clean and new rubber gaskets are on order. As part of preventive maintenance it may be worthwhile to remove the lenses once a year and lubricate the rubbers with vasalene.
Jan T |
J Targosz |
I wouldn't use Vaseline on rubber unless you know it's compatible, being a petroleum product it may attack certain rubber types. |
David Billington |
Dusting the contact surfaces with talc will stop the rubber sticking. |
GuyW |
DaveO would also comment on the silicone grease or Vasoline would holding too muck grit/crud/muck.
For remove same as fitting, spray with GT85 (PTFE) or silicone spray, if you can get an old plastic spatula or something similar to get some gap behind the rubber seal without damage or scratching all the better to get some to use the spray better. Also warming with the sun or a hairdryer may help to make the rubber more pliable. It maybe that the screws were put in too tight and/or the rubber was very old. Don't forget to clean inside the bulb holder and the base and connector of the bulb itself. |
Nigel Atkins |
Now completed work on the front lamps and have started on the rears. Washing the lenses made a difference but the biggest improvement was covering the inside gasket with aluminium foil. A simple job using spray on adhesive. The lamps really sparkle and are much brighter. Jan T |
J Targosz |
There's not an inside gasket, do you mean the dull and not particularly reflective backplate? Wiping the glass of the bulbs can sometimes make a big difference too or replacing those that are starting to go darker or 'silver'(?). Don't forget with the rear only wash/wipe the reflectors don't use polish DAHIK. |
Nigel Atkins |
Hi Nigel,
There are two sponge rubber gaskets. One with square holes fits between the body and the lamp. The other has round holes and fits on the outside of the back plate and seals the lenses. The round holes fit over the small reflectors that surround the bulbs. Mine were still nice and spongy but a dirty grey colour. That's why the shiny aluminium foil has made such a difference. I did have to drill out the top studs and replace them with bolts and small, fabricated brass tabs to replace the broken bits of monkey metal back plates. Cheers Jan T |
J Targosz |
Jan,
sorry, I misunderstood I thought you were referring to the front sidelights still rather than the rear light gaskets. IIRC the baseplate is it as far as the reflector goes but I've no idea what the original units look like only later copies, where the reflector polishes out easily. I just added an earth wire to each rear unit to save worrying about the usual earth connection, seems to work well. You can test the rear lights by having the main beam headlights (or flasher if fitted), sidelights (number plate), brake lights and indicator to each side all on without the engine running, if the earth(s) have a weakness it'll show up then. |
Nigel Atkins |
Jan, have you considered LEDs for increased brightness? The Mk1 Sprite chaps here have dinky LEDs in the front sidelights/indicator units which glow white but then flash orange when indicating. https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/collections/12-volt-collection is a good place to start. Their brake and indicator bulbs are especially bright. |
Jeremy MkIII |
This thread was discussed between 06/08/2021 and 13/08/2021
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