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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Fuel line
I need to replace at least some of the fuel line on my 948cc frogeye. The fuel pump is in the rear wheel arch behind the driver’s seat and the fuel line runs up the side, crossing over to the other side on the front chassis member by the radiator. That is OK I think, but from then on it is like a piece of spaghetti twisting and turning for no apparent reason and rubbing against the front shock absorber, which is a bit worrying. So I am thinking about cutting the metal pipe where it leaves the front cross member, and again just before the carburettors, and running a flexible hose between them (possibly fitting a fuel filter along the way). Is it OK just to join the metal pipe to flexible hosing with some form of hose clip or is there a better way to do this? – if so, any recommendations where I can source it? Many thanks |
Graham M V |
that will run too close to the exhaust manifold, the original routing of the solid pipe to the front, up past the lever arm damper, was done for a reason. |
David Smith |
Mine has got the fuel line as described; hard line stops just above the cross member, then a piece of rubber, filter and then rubber but braided. never had a problem. |
Alex G Matla |
Hmmmm - my fuel line comes up the left side of the gearbox and passes along the inside edge of the left-hand chassis leg before emerging in front of the front left shock. Is this another example of the PO doing things wrong?? Should it be on the right hand side? |
Chris H (1970 Midget 1275) |
Thanks for the reponses David, I take your point but the existing pipework definitely needs replacement and clunking on the shock absorber can't be helping. Alex, does yours go anywhere near the exhaust? Chris. I was talking about the frogeye, so yours is not necessarilly the same. Going back to my earlier question, once I have sorted the route out, what is the best way to join the pipework to a flexible hose do you think? |
Graham M V |
Graham, if the fuel pipe is shaped and fastened correctly it does not touch the damper; for the sake of a bit of bending and a clip or two you could save yourself a job. |
David Smith |
David Thanks for your suggestion but I fear that if I start bending the pipework, it will crack - it is realy not in good condition. So I thought some braided flexible hose might be best, but am not sure how I would join it. Do I just cut the existing pipe and fit with a jubille type clip. Obviously I need to get a flexible hose with a relatively small diameter. |
Graham M V |
Yes best to use a pipe cutter as a hacksaw spreads metal particles everywhere and some may get into the fuel system. Measure the O/D of the metal pipe and that gives you the I/D of the hose you want, IIRC it's 8mm. Overlap the hose onto the pipe by 40mm, use stainless clips, will be fine. |
David Smith |
Graham, it runs along the left side chassis rail from back to front, like Chris. '73 RWA. |
Alex G Matla |
When I had problems with my fuel pipe, I had some 8mm copper central heating pipe left over that I'd bought to do a similar jod on a mk2 Jaguar, so I replaced the lot. copper being softer than steel, you can bend it and route it where you like. Bernie. |
b higginson |
From under the radiator I made it go trough the engine mounting far from the exhaust. Flip |
Flip Brühl 948 frog 59 |
an other picture Flip |
Flip Brühl 948 frog 59 |
Thanks everyone. Flip, that is exactly the sort of set-up I was thinking of. How is that braided hose joined at each end. Is it just with clips joined to metal piping as David mentioned? |
Graham M V |
circlips, and rubber hoses the right size, I do change the rubber every 8-10 years, fuel is not what it was. Flip |
Flip Brühl 948 frog 59 |
This thread was discussed between 26/08/2011 and 28/08/2011
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