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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Gear Change Problem

I have a problem selecting the non-syncro first and reverse gears when my car has reached a running temp of around 160-170F but I don't have the same problem selecting these gears when the car starts off from cold, my car is a 1968 MK3 GAN4 fitted with the standard gearbox. Checked oil & level both ok.
Any thoughts on why this might be happening?

John.
J Bond

Is the problem that you have difficulty selecting the gears (i.e. gear lever becomes stiff) or you can select the gear but it grinds?

Rob
MG Moneypit

John,
I'm (almost) sure this subject came up recently, try searching the Archives as there'll be loads of info anyway.

160-170F is the normal running temp shown on the gauge after the stat has opened on most/many 1275s that I've seen or heard about.

Or quick thought(s) - clutch
clutch itself, clutch fluid, slave cylinder, pivot bolt, release arm, clutch pedal or pedal pivot bolt

gearbox
gearbox internals, age and type of oil (engine oil is best changed about every 2 years), lever kit(?)

Engine idle OK?

Have you tried pumping the clutch pedal to see it that makes a difference?

Nigel Atkins


Found this in the archives which was offered by a member as a possible solution to the same problem as I am experiencing-any comments?

The wear at the master cylinder to pedal connection reduces the hydraulic displacement enough to do this. The slave can't move any more than the MC tells it to, so no amount of adjustment at the slave will help.
If you take the pedal and clevis out and braze up, then re-drill and fit a new pin with a bit of oil, it will last eons.
On an old clapped out clutch it wouldn't be a problem, but with a new one with good cushion springs there is just not enough travel.

John.
J Bond

John,
you'd have to look to see if that might be the same problem as yours, it's just one possibility, more information is needed, such as, for example, what Rob asks.

My lists and questions were also to illustrate that the possibilities are wide and more information is required to help you.
Nigel Atkins

Is it possible to bush the elongated hole in the clutch pedal rather than braze and re-drill?
Jeremy MkIII

Of course. Why not?
If you don't have the gear or skills to braze (or weld) and redrill but you do have the resources to make and insert a bush then your idea is as good as any other.
In the end it comes down to what you can do with the kit you have.
Good luck.
Greybeard

Cheers Grey, can weld(ish) but was interested to know if bushing would be a suitable alternative .
Jeremy MkIII

This thread was discussed between 28/05/2017 and 05/06/2017

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG Midget and Sprite Technical BBS is active now.