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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Getting the Hubs off

So I got new rotors from trevor and they look great, but, i cant figure out how to get the hubs for the wire wheels off so i can switch out the rotors. the whole assembly just spins and im not sure how to get the bolts off.
is an impact wrench required?
the calipers are off (but still attached to the hoses, they are tied up out of the way in a cradle that i made with some rope)
i was thinking about putting them back on and using the brakes to stop it but the pistons are frozen so i cant get the pads back on and it wouldnt clap down anyway.

any suggestions?

thanks in advance, especially to trevor.
seth
Seth Brecklin

Seth,

Hubs is hubs. There is a cotter pin that holds the retaining nut in place. Once you remove the pin, the nut should come out fairly easily. I believe it needs a 1" socket. The problem that you have is that the nut and cotter pin are so far recessed on the wire wheel hubs that it's difficult to get at. Long needle nose pliers are a must. I'm sure someone with more wire wheel experience will have some suggestions soon.
Martin Washington

Seth,
the cotter pin mentioned by Martin is hiding underneath the dust cap that is deep inside the hub.

When you look in there (the big hole that is covered by the wheel nut most of the time), you'll see a short, threaded stud sticking out of the top of that dust cover. You want to grasp that with something and pull.

The threads were meant to engage to a BMC slide pull hammer, but that makes it sound like more than it really is. A long pair of needle nose pliers should be enough, or, if that doesn't work, a nut partially threaded onto the end of a long bolt can help you get a grip on it to pull.

Once you've got that dust cap off, the rest is then more obvious: undo the cotter pin (you'll notice a hole in the threaded portion of the hub for removing the pin), and then remove the axle nut to pull the rotor. Finally, you can then remove the 4 short bolts holding the rotor to the carrier.

It is a good idea to repack the grease in at least the outer wheel bearing while this is apart. John Twist of University Motors suggests that the inner bearing, if you keep it clean, really never needs to be repacked because it is "fed" by grease from the outer bearing, which gets cleaned and re-packed every time you replace the rotor. According to him, he's "never seen an inner bearing that didn't have enough grease in it". I only mention this because if that is true it saves replacing the inner seal and getting into the question of finding the right inner bearing that fits (long story).

Modern cars have the whole assembly reversed so that the rotor is super easy to replace. Older disc braked cars did it this way (drag).

Oh, and if you get really, really stuck, dealing with rusty parts, it is sometimes actually easier to remove the whole front suspension as a unit so you can clamp the rotor in a vise.


Norm
Norm Kerr

Thanks!
I was kinda lost because i was thinking that the bolts that hold the rotor on are the ones that need to be removed first.
Ill get on that this afternoon.

Thanks again.
what is a good grease for in there? just motor oil or is that too thin?
Mobil 1 multipurpose?

sorry about all of the questions. this is the first car that ive worked on and teaching yourself is kinda hard with just the manual.

thanks again.
this is much easier than it seemed yesterday.
seth
Seth Brecklin

Stop by your local autoparts store and buy a small tub of wheel bearing grease. Then look on the web for an explanation of how to pack bearings by hand.
Trevor Jessie

Seth here is how to dismattle the front hubs on wire wheels

Removing the disk or rotors as you refer to them is simply undoing the 4 fixing bolts. If you struggle then after removal place them in a vice.

good luck!
Robert (Bob) Midget Turbo

Sorry here is the link

http://www.midgetregister.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=77&Itemid=66
Robert (Bob) Midget Turbo

Seth

It's worth cracking the tension off the bolts that hold the rotor on BEFORE removing anything, as the caliper (plus a helper with foot on pedal) provides a very convenient way of gripping while doing so.
Ditto when torquing to tighten when reassembling (having first nipped them up while on the bench)
Paul Walbran

I didnt even think of looking inside of the hub to remove them.
beginners stupidity i guess.
thanks for the answers.
Seth Brecklin

There were no dust caps in there, should i get replacements?
Seth Brecklin

they serve two purposes:

1. keep dust out of the wheel bearings. Actually, the wheel nut does that too, but you might remove that alongside the road and other places and accidentally get dust in there.

2. keep the wheel bearing grease on the bearings. Without the cover, the grease might migrate out into the very large area between there and the wheel nut, where it won't do your bearings any good.

those covers are supposed to be a very loose fit, to make them easy to get out later. That's ok for them to be loose because there isn't anything to disturb them, deep down inside that hub like that.

I recommend you replace them. They are cheap, and all MG supply companies stock them.


Norm
Norm Kerr

Scratch that. there was one. Only one.
I might make one. might. of be lazy and proper and buy one.

The hubs are off.
the rotors are on. (thanks tim)
The calipers are painted. (bright orange, or so i am told (slightly color tone deaf))
the splash guards are rust-converted and painted.
the old flexible hoses are off.
bad news is that the pipe on the passenger (right if you are in the car) broke off. luckily it was the short one that goes to the splitter assy so that is not a big deal.
other bad news- the drums wont come off. but i have a couple ideas on how to fix that.
tomorrow is replacing the hub seals and re-packing the bearings. hopefully that goes smoothly (pun slightly intentional).

one question- on the stub axle, should i grease that with motor oil, white lithium (the kind in the grease gun) or motor oil?
or something else?

well, i guess another question wont hurt, are there any tricks for brake lines?

Thanks in advance (and for everything else)
seth
Seth Brecklin

The bearings for the front stub axles get greased with axle bearing grease before you press them into the hub.

For brake lines, the bee's knees is Fedhill, even if you buy the piece of pipe locally, their web site is really well written for all of the technical information you will want to know about flares, fittings, and so on:

http://www.fedhillusa.com/


Norm
Norm Kerr

Thanks for all the help, i got the front brakes all done and bled.
now onto the rear drums.
the drums wont come off.
this should be fun.

I put up some pictures soon.

seth.
Seth Brecklin

Back the handbrake adjusters right off, remove counter-sunk screw. Then gentle tapping with mallet around the rim of the drum usually does it.
R Fowler

I cant even get the bolts that hold the drum on off....
Seth Brecklin

I have just rebuilt my wire wheel hubs (1972 Midget). Fitted the new disks, braided brake hoses, cleaned and painted the dust shields and put them back on to trap small stones! and new bearings from Moss Europe. It is all looking good. Except. I am sure there is too much play in the hubs on both sides. I have tightened both sides to the correct torque (and a little more).
On one side, the outer edge of the disk must move at least 0.5mm if not more. On both sides you can feel, see and hear the hubs moving.
This cannot be correct.
I will be embarassed taking it for an MOT there is that much play.
How much play (if any) is acceptable?
D Brown


I cant even get the bolts that hold the drum on off....

Shouldn't be bolts but a cross-head countersunk screw on each hub.
Beg borrow or steal an Impact driver if the screws are reluctant to budge.

I ment to say back off the adjusters as well as the handbrake.
R Fowler

On wire wheels the rear drums are held on by the cross headed screws and also 4 big nuts where wheel studs are. These are locked by tab washers
Robert (Bob) Midget Turbo

This thread was discussed between 05/06/2010 and 19/06/2010

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

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