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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Handling Problems!!!


Hello, im in need of some help urgently!

Have got a '76 1500 midget. Just gone through an mot. I have had the car for 5 months, replacing a few parts to get it going again, after the previous owner left it sitting for 5 years.

I have seen the rubber bushes on the anti roll bar are knackered, and need replacing where it connects to the link arm I believe.

The problem is handling.
When I put my foot down on the gas it violently jolts to the right hand side, onto oncoming traffic. After driving it 300 miles ish in the last week I am now compensating for it, but it is obviously a big problem. When I also decelerate it also veers to the right. If the power is gently put down it doesn’t bolt to the right. The back doesn’t kick out, but it is the front.
All of this happens when driving in a straight line, which to me is worrying!
To be honest im not experienced in the slightest as im only 19 and need some help before I start replacing unnecessary items!

Many thanks,


Rusty midget
t j bennett

In the absence of other suggestions my first inclination would be to check the tracking. If it is toeing-out instead of toeing-in you can get quite a lot of instability which becomes more obvious at speed.
Stuart K

Oh and check the simple things like tyre pressures and make sure you are not mixing tyres ie crossply on one side and radial on the other.
Stuart K

Just for security sake check out the shackle bolts on the differential.. They have been known to cause some of your problem.
Sandy
Sandy Sanders

"What Sandy says" IF he means the U bolts on the rear axle...

sounds as if the axle is shifting laterally under power

the U bolts can seem fine and dandy but may still need even more bolting up tight, than looks prudent

When Geoff sees this he may pop in and say the same, there was such a problem with his car one evening a couple of years ago

simple to deal with and makes the car a far happier place to be
Bill sdgpm

yep I'd go with loose rear axle U-bolts too.
David (davidDOTsmithAT stonesDOTcom)

Same from me
d brenchley


Sounds like something is loose in the back axle.

Don't want to insult your vehilce, but since you say that it's rusty, have a good look at the spring hangers - where the leaf springs mount to the bodywork - and make sure they've not rusted and bent or disolved. Also, check that the rubber bushes at each end haven't fallen apart.

Like Bill and Sandy said above, the U-bolts that hold the axle need to be really tight - check that the rubber pads that go between the bolt and the axle are there.

If everything is well at the back, jack the front up, hold the (road) wheel at 3 oclock and 9 oclock and test it to see if there is any slack or slop. If there is then something in the front suspension, wheel bearing or steering rack has worn out.

TBH all of the above should really have been checked at the MOT, but things get missed. Whatever, you've got a dangerous car at the moment, so don't delay in putting it right!!

Whatever - it shouldn't be too serious, I'm sure you'll be able to fix it without too much hard work.

In the long run, you'd not regret replacing the bushes all round - I've just rebuilt my midge with new bushes and it's like night and day compared to the old knackered bushes I replaced.

Hope that's of some help.
Mark
MarkH1

Following on to Mark, if your car passed its MoT with perished ARB bushes, there may be problems elsewhere as well. I agree with the suggestions about your rear axle mounting. If you get weird handling under acceleration or deceleration, it's usually a case of the rear axle shifting somehow and steering the car from the rear.

That said, when I bought my Midget 14 years ago, the rubber suspension bushes were pretty well knackered in front AND back, and the handling was pretty loose and sloppy. Badly worn front dampers didn't help either. I replaced all the dampers, and switched the old rubber bushes out for polyurethane all around, and the difference was amazing.

But do something - you're missing out on a really excellent driving experience. A properly set up Midget should be very satisfying to drive.

Cheers,

-:G:-
Gryf Ketcherside

I agree with the above, BUT I have a differant approach.

Tighten the U joints on the rear, if that dosnt fix it. Then take the car to a good established wheel shop that does suspesion work and have them put it up on the rack for a looksy...it will cost you as little as free to as high as 15 GBP, but they will find the problem in short order...alot cheaper then replacing parts indiscriminatly on the basis of a guess.


Prop
Prop

Prop,
Chances are that he would not be replacing anything that did not NEED replacing. It is likely high time that most of that stuff was renewed. I would advise changing bushes and going over things first, then taking it in if the problem persists, secure in the knowledge that the pieces are ok.
David "if I were thinking backwards, I would have a GM" Lieb
David Lieb

To follow up on gryfs thoughts.

On the bushings, definatly go with the polyurethene that gryf is talking about, a small amount more expensive, but well worth it.

I rebuilt my suspension 7 years ago and used rubber...bad mistke....they are all shot and the equvlent to worn shoe rubber, So Now Im in the middle of replacing them agian with poly this time.

poly will last almost forever. so "THEY" say.

Prop
Prop

Lets see... the time is 9:43am Yep. you got me David, way to early in the morning. LOL.


I forgot the car sat 5 years before, and as you stated time ago david, like patato chips you cant eat just one, so TJ your well ahead planning on a complete suspenion rebuild and hoping for just new polybushes.


Prop...whack-a-mole is a game about life and midget suspension...Prop
Prop

let me try that agian, this time with out being cute.

Thighten the U-bolts at the rear, change out all bushings to poly front and rear...your not loosing anything and only gaining by doing so as David points out, and "HOPE" thats enough, but plan on a complete rebuild. sometimes when it comes time for replacements, it just keeps going and going and going.


Prop... Think ahead its an MG ...Prop
Prop

Broken main spring leaf allowing the axle to slide fore/aft under accel?
rob multi-sheds thomas

99% of the time the symptoms you describe (Steering when accelerating or decelerating is caused by loose u bolts on the rear axle. Quality MOT testers will find this problem on the MOT, (you need to be strong and use the correct technique) but many don't so give these a good tighten up first and enjoy the difference.
Robert (Bob) Midget Turbo

The torque steer you described has already been described in the road tests back in 1958. It was a brand new ¼ elliptic AH frogeye sprite where it was noticed first. My car still has it 50 years later. I did not know that it also happend at semi elliptic cars although I can imagine it does. The torque of the motor causes one side to come deeper and the axis will go backward a few millimetres. At first I was angry about it. I am used to it now and hardly notice it anymore. Just as the tester 50 years back described it. I have to confess that I did rebuild the suspension many times to overcome it till I saw the old road test……

Flip
Flip Brühl 948 frog 59

t.j.bennett. Whereabouts in Kent are you?
Alan Anstead

Here I am Bill, albeit late. :o)
I can confirm my symptoms were exactly the same. This is going to be the most inexpensive problem to fix - jack under rear spring to relieve pressure on "U" bolt nuts, spanner in hand and tighten !! Do both sides of course. Job done.
Geoff Mears (1970 Midget)

When tightening 'U' bolts, how tight is tight. I'm never sure when is enough.
Think I can remember somebody once quoting a torque ?
s baker

Interesting
Yesterday I took my car for wheel balancing because of steering vibration but also poor handling.
It turned out the the tyres(even though still looking very good with lots of tread) were the problem.
If like me you only use your car every once in a while it just sits in the garage on the same spot and eventually the tyres go out of shape.
manian

Agree 100% with all above comments re U-bolts, it's the classic symptom. I have found that if even when tightened the problem is still there, then it's time for new spring seating pads as well.

I use a torque of 30 lb-ft
Paul Walbran

Thanks for the advice guys. Am Going to work my way through it this weekend, starting with the U bolts.
Alan Anstead i am in Gravesend. Its a blue midget, off the a2 junction at nells.

thanks
t j bennett

t.j.bennet
I live nearby at Greenhithe. Do you want to pop round tomorrow and let me have a look at it for you.
alan dot anstead at btopenworld dot com.
Alan Anstead

This thread was discussed between 18/06/2009 and 19/06/2009

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