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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Head Gasket
The head gasket has gone on my 1500 midget and the oil has become contaminated. There is also a lot of sludge as well. I was planning on using an engine flush to clean out the deposits but I am not sure whether to do this after the gasket change or before? |
matthew grindrod |
after |
David Smith |
Hi matt, My dad had his head gasket go on his 1275cc and the one thing we had to do was remove the push rods, remove the cylider head and soak up the water that filled up the tappets. Very easily overlooked... next I would remove the oil pan and wipe the crank case down and inspect the oil pick up screen for sludge build up. If you are talking about flushing the water jackets than yes I would first install the new head gasket so you isolate the cylinders from the water jackets and flush away. Shannon. |
Shannon moore skm |
if you get a full fill up engine flush in soon I think that might take care of Shannon has put but if you want to do that work as well all the better I'd also recommend a coolant clean and flush not missing the engine block and possibly the additional work listed below Coolant clean change:- · first clean the whole system with something like Bars Flush Cooling System Cleaner · then drain the whole system - engine block, heater matrix and radiator · if you can, take the radiator and heater matrix out of the car to give them a good shake at the same time as flushing and back flushing and gently brush clean both sides of the fins · reverse flush each of the three until water runs out thoroughly clean · final flush through each of the three until water runs out thoroughly clean · refill with the correct coolant mixture but bear in mind tap water isn’t the best use distilled instead · follow the refill instructions from the Driver's Handbook to avoid getting air locks or ‘hotspots’ that could cause overheating of the engine At the same time you may also want to check and change if required the thermostat, filler pressure cap, fan belt and the heater valve/tap As recent new rubber cooling hoses tend to be poor quality you may also want to change your existing rubber hoses set to silicone with rounded-edge clips - http://www.classicsiliconehoses.com/ Before starting this work also consider if the water pump and heater fan motor need replacing and (if not already fitted) whether to install an electric fan as this would dovetail in with the work above |
Nigel Atkins |
If you've got the head off... you may as well clean the whole thing... in petrol or jizer... you can strip it down if you have the tools. take the sump off and clean that too put the whole thing back together with the new gasket and run it for a hour at idle with flushing oil. Every 5 or ten minutes, blip the throttle. Then drain flushing oil and fill with the normal 20W50 If you want to drain the rad and coolant then do as nigel says. Reccomended flushing oils: Morris golden film flushing oil - I've used this and can reccomend it. You can just buy a thin cheap engine oil and run that on its own. You can add "Gunk" to it... although I've never used this. I've heard you can use automatic transission fluid (which contains a good surfactent). Personally I'd stick to the morris flushing oil - but its all preference. I don't think there are any parts at risk of deterioration by using degreasing additives - altough someone else may be able to correct me here. |
C L Carter |
Many thanks for all your advice. |
matthew grindrod |
This thread was discussed between 02/01/2012 and 03/01/2012
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