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MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG Midget and Sprite Technical - heater valve

is it possible to fit cable operated heater valve instead of tap type
will mgb valve fit?
thanks
G Burrow

A Mini one will fit although not sure about the angle that the hose fits onto it from heater, thought about doing this myself. Roy
R Mcknight

... also some issue that stopping flow in this circuit might cause local hot-spots around #4 cylinder.

Might be better to bypass heater to 'turn off heat'.

A
Anthony Cutler

I've got a valve from a late-model mini sat on my bench. Bought it off ebay for a fiver, it looks like this:

http://www.minisport.com/mini-spare-parts/info_JJB10011.html

My plan is to fit it into the hose between the block and heater, and reroute the cable which closes the fresh-air flap to the heater box to operate it - it's just long enough, and I never close the fresh-air flap on the heater box anyway.

Total price about a fiver and a pair of jubilee clips, and the modification is both minimal and completely reversible.

I've been meaning to get around to it for ages - I'll probably do the mod about the same time I put the hardtop on in the autumn as it's only when the hardtop is on that overheating inside the car becomes a problem.
MarkH1

Thanks for suggestions. I would prefer something that bolts onto head where the existing valve is so perhaps the older mini one will be best. Heat on #4 will not be any fifferent as flow is closed in hot weather now with existing tap and temp is not an obvious issue.
george
G Burrow

This won't work for A-series engines, but I put in a cable to operate the heater valve on my 1500.

I drilled a hole in the control valve lever and hooked up a generic choke cable to control it. I drilled a hole in the bulkhead near the air control under the dash and ran the cable behind the brake/clutch master cylinders and between the battery and heater box to the control valve.

I made a bracket to hold the outer cable sheath in place and bent the stiff wire as shown. I had to relocate the heater valve about 1/2 inch to line up with the cable. If I had to do it again I would move the knob end of the cable a little further inboard for a better grip.

Works great and took all of 20 minutes and $7.00 to do.

Lee


Lee Fox

This is the heater valve which came with the car since we got it in 1977 but not sure it's original. However like Lee's it would be possible to drill the lever and put a cable through it...
(2 pics in situ and in bits)

Jeremy


Jeremy 3

..and in bits...

Jeremy


Jeremy 3

Late 1098cc morris minors had a cable operated heater valve that bolts directly to an A series block. Internet search shows they are readily available (see picture). Just a thought as my cars a 1500 so no direct experience of fitting myself.
Regards
Steve Lowiss


s lowiss

Got this from Frontline but have no clue what it is from?
Its build in now but still not connected to a cable.
I was thinking of connecting it to the cable that normaly shuts-off/opens the heater air-inlet.
Some day it will be connected...


Arie de Best

Here it is build in the system:


Mark Mini kit looks like a good possibility.
I think they sell Steve's kit at the MGOC including cable.



Arie de Best

Anthony,
what do you mean with: 'stopping flow in this circuit might cause local hot-spots around #4 cylinder'?

Ben
B Elfrink

It's been said that the flow around the no4 cylinder needs to pass through the heater tap and matrix in order to avoid hot spots locally

Which might be right but Metro A+ heads are blanked off there and wont allow a flow out of the head like that

I have seen it said that transverse engines have airflow cooling instead, but remain sceptical myself

You pays yer money and takes yer chance
bill sdgpm

I have one of the mini repro cable ones. I've had it on for years. Not sure I buy into the whole "hot spot" theory. Sounds like a BL excuse for having no remote heater control in the midget when lesser cars all had them.

You can see it in the pictures of the previous engine install towards the end of this album

http://www.eatworms.me.uk/index.php/mg-midget/projects/94-midget-engine.
Dean Smith ('73 RWA)

totally agree Dean

If you couldnt close the valve why would the factory fit it?

I have the simple tap like Jeremy3's on my engine, just never got round to reaching in a switching off... yet!

I do have a Mini one too and it was only a couple of weeks ago I decided to try the fit and get a cable to work it with.

Modify a choke cable maybe

Gearbox gets changed soon, so will the valve
bill sdgpm

Mine at least has no spring to pull against - so needs a solid control cable rather than a stranded one like the choke to allow you to push it aswell as pull.
Dean Smith ('73 RWA)

I used the early mini type of valve without problems for many years when my car was a daily driver. IIRC I used the mini solid type control cable (because you push & pull) which was fitted in place of the bonnet pull which my car didnt need.
Ian
Ian Webb '73 GAN5

I will probably use the bonnet cable too, maybe Dremel off the writing and engrave Hot/cold on it
bill sdgpm

Bill, I fitted a Morris Minor push-pull cable ready engraved - £12.75 on t'internet search.
Steve Lowiss


s lowiss

Steve, how long is that cable from the bracket?
Arie de Best

This thread was discussed between 21/04/2010 and 05/05/2010

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG Midget and Sprite Technical BBS is active now.