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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Help choosing alternator

Can someone please direct me to a good reasonably priced choice of alternator for my 1275 engine.

At some point I'm planning on running a stereo, some small speakers and probably uprated headlights of some short, so what do I need?

The moss alternator kit seems pricey and mini spares supply a cheap 45 amp anyone got experience with that?

the thing I'm most concerned about might seem silly but I don't want it to look to big in the small engine bay next to the small engine.

Thanks
Alex
Alexander Sorby Wigstrom

I've got an electric cooling fan that I've wired to run on after ignition is switched off so I've got a 65 amp like this -
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MGB-MG-midget-18ACR-High-Output-65-Amp-Alternator-Pulley-Fan-/150768469308?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item231a80453c

you still need to look after your battey and connections of course or all is wasted

keep any spacers you have on your present one or you'll end up using washers like me to keep the fan belt lined up

ETA: they also do chrome versions 45 and 65 amp
Nigel Atkins

didn't think about that I to plan on mounting an electric fan for that "just in case".. good thing you mentioned that I need to keep that in mind.

any picture of your engine bay perhaps?
Alexander Sorby Wigstrom

what bit of the engine bay?

I could take a photo if I haven't got the bit you're after - note mine is a 1275
Nigel Atkins

thanks but you don't have to go through all that trouble it was only if you had one readily available, I just wanted a reference for the physical size of the alternator in the enginebay. But they aren't really that big that I guess it should matter.
Alexander Sorby Wigstrom

the 65s are quite big, well bigger than the 45 anyway (sorry I missed your's is a 1275 too)

I'll see what I've got and post here shortly

if not I can take one, all the effort is preparing and getting my old digital camera to work but the wife and neighbours may prefer I leave it until morning now

not sure about your just in case electric fan, you probably rely on an electric fan in your modern car without giving it a second thought so why not with this car

I use the thermoswitch electric fan as my only fan without overide switch - you don't have an overide switch in modern cars

if the electric fan stops working, and they last years, over 20 years on a Jag I know, then it's no different to a water pump failing in fact not as bad

I know from having fibreglass bodied cars that they hold the engine bay heat a lot more than metal so a a full cooling system in good condition is also needed

now what photos have I . . .
Nigel Atkins

quite a lot of small changeds in the engine bay since this 2008 photo

if you need to see more or different angle just say


Nigel Atkins

thanks picture helps a lot in giving me an overall look, so no need to fire up either wife or neighbours!

I'm really still a novice working on cars since this is my first "real" project I haven't really given the fan thing to much though but I guess I ought to at some point.
Alexander Sorby Wigstrom

I know very little about mechanics as all on here will testify to but after years of having things break I finally learnt that it's the very basics that are essential for reliable running of the car (and also must be there if you want to go on to enhancing the performance) - full and proper servicing, maintenance and repairs along with regular use of the car

you don't necessarily need an electric cooling fan the engine driven fan alone is used perfectly well by most owners now and going back 50 years

what you do need for cooling is a cooling system where all parts and compoments (including coolant) are in good condition without this it doesn't matter what fan you use you'll get trouble sooner than later

important things on the car are:-
safety items like braking system, tyres, suspension, lights, clear windows (notice none of these are to do with the engine)
then a good cooling system (oil also cools the engine)
good battery with good connections and leads

full and proper servicing, maintenance and repairs along with regular use of the car will bring about a reliable well set up car more quickly
Nigel Atkins

Funny, many on here say they aren't skilled mechanics I claim to differ due to all the good advice I've got during the last three years I've been on here.. (wow has it really been that long)

I thought about maybe skipping the engine driven fan and "replacing" it with just the electrical, would that be a bad idea?
Alexander Sorby Wigstrom

well as that's exactly what I've done I'd say no it's not a bad idea

but, and based on your other thread, hold off things like that until you've finished full and proper service, maintenace and repairs and driven the car regularly for 12 months as you may need the money you've spent on the electric fan or any other changes or improvements or additions for something else that unexpectedly breaks or needs replacing

when I say I know little about mechanics unfortunately it's not false modesty, other than what a driver should look after on a car I only do (some) the other work because I can no longer pay someone else to do the work and have the hassle as much as I used to be able to

personally I dislike doing anything to the car other than driving it which is why I will attend to all the servicing and maintenance so that it plays up as little as possible

I've had more than enough of my life wasted on car problems and I never found it macho to be doing roadside repairs just very annoying

mind you, if I'd stuck with the cars I bought a lot longer and only had one at a time things wouldn't have been so bad and we be tens of thousands of pounds better off now - but I've always been a very slow learner :(
Nigel Atkins

I'm not much for holding off I'm afraid :) and the sprite is my main priority until it's done.

and since I'm doing a full rebuild I'm leaving nothing to chance, what I'm aiming for is once the car passes MOT I won't have to do anything to it other than tune it in... given if I've done everything right nothing should break for at least a while (knock on wood)

The car so far.. Shell stripped, rust repaired and off for it's respray.

Things that are done and waiting to get assembled on the car are:

rear suspension and breaks completely rebuilt, front disc brake conversion rebuilt, sway bar added, wheelbearings, engine changed to 1275 re-bored +20 with new pistons and rebuilt with 1,5 lift rockers, hi-torque starter, machined flywheel with 7,5" clutch, five-speed rebuilt and modified shifter to fit in original hole in tunnel, concentric clutch release bearing, LCB manifold, 45 weber carb, new fueltank sender unit, new carpet, new interior trim.

things still to get sorted:
electricals, cooling system, alternator conversion, electrical fan, the rest of the exhaust, new set of wheels, getting the gauges calibrated and rebuilt, choice of fuel pump, oil cooler and everything else I've forgotten about..

I know I've got a lot of work and a lot of money I don't haven't but need to spend ahead of me, but (hopefully) it'll be well worth it in the end.



Alexander Sorby Wigstrom

I run the minispares alternator on my Sebring rep.
Unlike some suppliers it comes complete with pulley wheel and fan. You will also need the alternator bracket for the engine but that is obtainable from Minispares.
A Anstead

You need to just be aware that the older alternators for our cars came with only 2 types of fixings

They were left hand

Or

Right hand

This determines which side of the engine they mount. You need to buy the right hand mount.

The physical size of the alternator is determined by its output

The smallest ones are rated at 36amps which is more than adequate for our cars. The original dynamo is about 23 amps!!

Here is a cheap 36 amp lucas alternator http://tinyurl.com/7wh3esh Note as stated above this example comes complete with pully and fan, not all others do and are not cheap when purchased seperately

All you then need is the rear mounting bracket and modified wiring.

I have compiled a diagram of all model Spridget to change the wiring from dynamo to alternator. This can be done by simply changing the wiring in the voltage regulator which gives many benefits

Easy to do
Tidy
And looks original!! :)

If you need a copy I will need to know the year and model of your car plus the type of voltage regulator installed. Then I will happily send you full and detailed instructions.
Bob Turbo Midget England

Hi,

Just a bit a thought. Lucas ACR alternators can be easily swapped from right to left hand mounting fairly easily.


Remove the black plastic back cover,take out the three bolts holding the body together and just sviwel the back part thro 120 degrees so the rear lug lines up with the other front lug.

Refit the bolts and the cover. Hey presto, it's now the other hand, simples!


Can be useful if you acquire a good alternator but its handed wrong.


Regards Steve.


SR Smith 1

>>what I'm aiming for is once the car passes MOT I won't have to do anything to it other than tune it in<< theoretically possible (may be) but with the quality of new parts I still thiink it'll take a minimum of 12 months of regular driving but I hope you prove me wrong

personally I've found a standrard electronic fuel pump is fine, mine is like this one - http://www.classicparts4cars.co.uk/mg-midget-electronic-fuel-pump---qh-qfp171e--auf214-133-p.asp

and personally I wouldn't fit an oil cooler especially if I lived where you do but not doubt you'll ignore this, when you do at least fit a thermostat with it

Nigel Atkins

thanks for the input guys!

Bob will a 36amp really suffice if I add music system, headlights and electrical fan?

As my vehicle profile shows my car is a Sprite Mk1 that was registered for use in 61 so I guess it's made 1960 or 59. I don't know if it matters that I've swapped to a 1275 and that I will have to re do all the wiring in my car since someone already did this sometime but unfortunately only used one colour on all the wires.......

I've got one of these regulators

Bob you can email me on the above address next to my profile

Nigel, I'll definitely try that oil you recommend since it's way cheaper than the original stuff going in the gearbox!



Alexander Sorby Wigstrom

I will gladly send you the info mate
Robert (Bob) Midget Turbo

This thread was discussed between 18/05/2012 and 19/05/2012

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