MG-Cars.net

Welcome to our resource for MG Car Information.

Recommendations

Parts

MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG Midget and Sprite Technical - How do I bleed the clutch on my Mk3 Midget?

I have replaced the slave cylinder and refurbished master cylinder. Trying to bleed the system has progressed as far as fluid appearing at the slave cylinder nipple but I have not achieved a functional clutch. I've tried depressing the slave cylinder piston which had some effect but has not solved the problem. I have also used an EZbleed but to no avail. What am I missing? could it be the master cylinder is worse than I thought and needs replacing?
N Taylor

How do I bleed the clutch on a Mk3 midget? Answer - with great difficulty!!!! This is a commonly experienced difficulty. There is quite a lot on this topic in the archives so I would suggest you look there.

In my recent experience I think the only answer is to just keep trying. I used a simple item from Halfords consisting of a tube that fits on the nipple with a non-return valve on the other end. Depress the pedal several times until no more bubbles come out and hold the pedal down (V important) until the bleed nipple is tightened. It may take several attempts but with perseverance it can be done.
Chris H (1970 Midget 1275)

This has been discussed so may times. It is the same problem on the MGB. Try doing it backwards, that is pushing the fluid up from the slave to the master. Paul Hunt tells you how here
http://www.mgb-stuff.org.uk/clutchtext.htm#bleed

It has worked several times for me.
Mike Howlett

Thanks for comments. I've been on it for approx 4 hours based on traditional method so desperate to try alternative. Having read the V8 method of reverse bleed it makes sense but sounds tricky. I'll have a look at the EZbleed to see if I can do it. Hope my son is up to pedal operation for another 4 hours tomorrow!
N Taylor

Why are you needing someone to operate the pedal if you are using an eazibleed?

- Sorry, that sounds grumpy! I just wondered if you were having problems with the eazibleed operation?
Guy

You ask a very good question. Desperation I think its called. Must confess I had some trouble with the EZ bleed, due I think to having too much pressure. Better when it was reduced to 18lb.
N Taylor

After hours of frustration, I broke down & ordered an Eezibleeder, followed the instructions of using 20psi in the tire & had the clutch bled in 15 minutes.

They really do make the job easy...
Dave Rhine ('78 1500)

Try the Aussie way ! works for me !

http://www.spriteparts.com.au/tech/bleeding.html

R.


richard boobier

If you do have to replace the master cylinder I would also recommend replacing the little flexible hose, because I think that was my problem all along, after time some seem to expand making bleeding difficult.
Dave.
DW Warren

This is brilliant thanks: at least I have an armoury of things to try. I can see many happy hours ahead. Shame i haven't the Aussie weather to do it in. I'll let you know how it goes.
N Taylor

I well remember the same problem after replacing the clutch slave. Grotty job bleeding the thing.

Then I changed to a 5 speed box.

The 5 speed g/box conversion I have, also included a relocated slave cylinder bleed nipple.

It now sits on the top side of the g/box, just below the battery shelf (drivers side, rh drive car).

It is EASILY reached from inside the engine bay.

Why not fit a length of pipe to the end of the slave in place of the existing nipple, and locate the nipple at the end of the pipe, which can be at the top side of the box, or if flexible, anywhere you like?

This would allow you to bleed the slave with ease. I remember thinking I should have thought of this myself long before I installed a 5 speed box.
Lawrence Slater

I've been battling this very thing this morning. I used an Eezibleed with the pressure at 10psi. I found that removing the slave cylinder, but leaving it connected to the master, then use the pedal to prove that you can move the piston - not too far, you don't want to push it all the way out and have to start again!
Pushed the piston back in the slave by hand, and some air appeared in the pipe. So do this a few times, push it out with the pedal, and back by hand. Then refit it and some more bleeding, with some occasional pedal pumping. Try not to be stingy with bleeding a decent amount of fluid through it.

Additionally, I think my clutch plates were probably stuck, as they have been stood for 9 months. It seemed to suddenly start working whilst I pumped the clutch with the engine running (in first gear).

DH2
DH2

After spending all morning bleeding: literally at some points: I have found the source of my woes. Even though I replaced the seals in master cylinder there is still a leak. looks like a new MC.
N Taylor

Success. After changing the MC I now have a clutch. Bleeding took a combination of the Australian method, bleeding the slave cylinder and using Eezibleed. Eezibleed didn't work on its own however even at 18psi. Depressing the clutch on the Australian pattern as suggested by Richard shifted the final air lock. Thanks for all the advice and help N
N Taylor

Good news
I too convinced myself i was missing a trick, in desperation i changed the master cylinder and had the job done in five minutes using the cheapo halfords tube and valve with the car jacked up at the correct angle. It was made slightly easier as having the T50 5 speed conversion the bleed nipple is accessible through the engine bay with a socket or spanner, we should all be so lucky!
S G Macfarlane

My clutch self- bleeds via a remote bleed nipple at the top of the bellhousing.

I have fitted a concentric slave to my clutch with a T9 gearbox. By self-bleed I mean that all I have to do is crack open the bleed nipple and the fluid and any air bubbles flow out. No pedal pressing, no easibleed. I just need to keep an eye on the M/C level and to catch surplus fluid in a jam jar with a length of plastic tube.
The only time I use the easibleed is when first filling the system if it has been removed and drained for any reason.

Guy
Guy

Guy that's exactly how mine works, and why I suggested the extension pipe. Self bleed. I can't see why it wouldn't work on the original slave too, but I never tried it unfortunately.

I have the same concentric slave conversion in my ford box too.

Is yours SAAB? It's purely brilliant.

I got my kit from Moor Lane garage Preston, Tony Bolton, did your's come from there?
Lawrence Slater

No Lawrence, mine is made with a Ford fiesta concentric slave. Not a kit, I calculated the throw I needed and made the mountings and parts myself. I also made much of the T9 conversion kit myself so the whole 5 speed conversion cost me £220.
But I do like the look of that BMW gearbox conversion in this month's MASCot. Very sweet.

Extension bleed pipe on mine is rigid, but if simply fitting a remote to a standard slave I believe that the rear brake flexible hose is a direct screw fit into the slave, and about the right length to get a well positioned and accessible bleed point
Guy

Guy,

not seen mascot yet as away from home , does the bmw box require the shell to be cut ? what is the donor ?
Thanks
Andy
Andy Chaffey

So there must be as many ways to fit a ford box as there are owners then lol. 220 quid, that's a bargain, very cheap.

Yes that bmw conversion sounds very interesting. I wouldn't change now, but if I ever did it again, or if you cease to be able to get T9 ford boxes rebuilt, it might be an option. I assume it would be lighter than the ford box too.

Lawrence Slater

Andy,
No that is the beauty of it. The cross member remains intact. Gearbox is the ZF box from the 316/318 and 320 models (E30 cars). Needs a special backplate, gearbox mount, modified prop shaft etc. Conversion illustrated was done by two friends in Germany so the write up is a little limited on detail but lots of photos and it looks good. They provide e-mail contact details and offer to supply some parts like the backplate.

Guy
Guy

Guy,

many thanks i will have a look on friday when back , sounds completely reversible which i like , last thing i meant to ask is the lever in the same place or any trans tunnel cutting
Thanks
Andy
Andy Chaffey

Apparently, if I read it right, the gear lever is connected with cables or short rods so can be adjusted to suit. Meaning the lever can be positioned in its rightful place! And yes, they say it is all reversible!

I can foresee a sudden rush to the scrapyards for good used BMW boxes!
Guy

Guy. I saw that in MASCOT and started thinking why didn't I wait a while before doing my 5 speed conversion? But hindsight is a wonderful thing and I'm happy with my type 9 and although the cutting of the crossmember presented no problems, I really would have prefered not to have cut it, but the car hasn't suffered any flexing or handling issues. I wouldn't change back now on my Sprite, but if I had another one to do I thing I'd definitely go the BMW route.

Bernie.
b higginson

Bernie,
My thought exactly!
I did the conversion on my 1275 Sprite about 10 years ago. It was soon after I sold my previous 1500 Midget which I had fitted with overdrive and I was missing the extra gear! At the time Type 9 gearboxes were very common with scrapyards still full of Sierras! I paid £20 for that gearbox and bought several others at the time at similar prices, but then they started creeping up. I can see these BMW grearboxes doing thae same, but I doubt they would start out as low as £20 nowadays!

Sorry, thread drift again!

Guy
Guy

I am in awe of the knowledge out there. This has been so useful!
N Taylor

This thread was discussed between 03/09/2011 and 06/09/2011

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG Midget and Sprite Technical BBS is active now.