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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - I know, I know, what was I thinking!!
So last night I thought it would be a good idea to sit in my kitchen and clean up my newly extracted dashboard gauges. So with wire wool in hand I started to clean them up and they looked great especially the chrome. But the underside of the glass on the fuel gauge was covered in grime. I worked out that you can fairly easily remove the chrome surround to get at the underside of the glass and after 5 minutes that too was looking brand new again. Then here comes the stupid part, looking at the black face of the fuel gauge was dirty and the white lettering and symbols were also a little dull. Then I had my very, very bad idea of using a cotton bud with a little bit of water would clean it all right up not knowing that it was all painted on back in 1965. So now I have wiped away my 'E' and smudged the last quarter of the gauge!!!!!! So has this stupid mistake just cost me about £30 for a second hand one or does anyone know if you can get a new freshly painted face? Kind regards James (We learn from mistakes and not from success) |
J Paul |
Go to WH Smith and for a couple of pounds you can buy sheets of transfer numbers and letters. I think they do them in white. If not WH Smith, then try Rymans or an artists supplies shop |
Guy W |
At least you'll never be running on E mpty. :) Yes sometimes we make mistakes but it's getting in and having a go where we really learn. Just as long as the mistakes aren't too frequent. Yes Ryans used to stock them in a couple of sizes and they were quite nice blockey letters. |
Greg H |
A few years back someone on the BBS had either printed, or found a supplier for some rather nice white (antique cream actually) dials that fitted Spridgets gauges. They really looked rather nice! |
Guy W |
Hi Guy, That sounds like a good option. As it would go with the English White I am planning on painting the car. I'll have a look in the archives. This image is not my gauge but shows the style if it helps anyone. I did have a thought to try and make a printable version using photoshop. Worth an a go. |
J Paul |
That's what happens when you try to erase history. Would you do that to an antique wooden table? Only joking, ---- up to a point. I like old cars to look old, and that's why I would NEVER even consider so called "restoring" mine. It would lose all it's hard earned character, its proud scars. Repairs are one thing, but imho, people go too far, --- for my personal taste. Horses for courses though, as I often say. |
Lawrence Slater |
I'm with you on this one Lawrence. Was at the NEC last weekend... some of the cars there looked like they'd never seen tarmac... let alone WET tarmac! Only ever rolled onto carpets I'd say. Yes: horses for courses but .... |
David Cox |
Hi, Lawrence and David I hear your point, but would you remove an unsightly spiders web from the antique table? or take action to stop further wood rot. For me the point of restoring the car is to get it back to a condition as best as I can using original parts were possible. Certainly for me the aim is not to produce a show car. But a car that can be driven and enjoyed. My gauges were filthy and showed early signs of rust at the back. They needed to be cleaned. I went one stage too far, but through my mistake have learnt something amazing about the skills of the people that built these quality instruments. Stripping each component down to understand about it and how it works is part of my project. I wanted to learn about a classic car and the processes of restoring it. Otherwise I would have saved up £5,000 and bought a midget and stuck it in a garage only to drive on a sunny day. That's not for me! Kind regards James |
J Paul |
"would you remove an unsightly spiders web from the antique table? or take action to stop further wood rot." Not neccessarily the spiders web, but yes to the action to prevent wood rot, as I would repair or pre-empt serious rust in the chassis of my Sprite. I wasn't being 'that' serious, however, --- I haven't and wouldn't though remove all traces of dirt, or surface rust from the rear of gauges, for example. Rust is not a disease that spreads via infection. Once the damp is removed the rust ceases to spread. Obviously if the rust has become so bad as to penetrate the case, you might need to replace the gauge. You have no need to defend yourself on here. All that matters is your own personal choice, but that won't stop people like me, making comments -- frequently. lol. |
Lawrence Slater |
Hi Lawrence, I understand everyone has their point of view and except their will be differences of opinion here. I do value your and everyone's experience here and I know that they will be invaluable to me. The contacts on the back of gauges were rusty so I felt needed to be cleaned up to make sure the electrical connections will be sound when I rebuild. All the best James |
J Paul |
in the UK you can get your gauges rebuilt at Speedy Cables http://www.speedycables.com/repair.html so, if you talk with them real nice, they might sell you just a re-done face However, the big gauge restorer in the US that I've worked with often over the years, Nissonger, won't sell a component. They'll only do the whole gauge (usually for $100), which includes a re-painted face and fully restored and re-plated everything else. So, I can't predict how Speedy will be about just selling you a re-done face. But, maybe! Norm |
Norm Kerr |
Hi Norm, Firstly thanks for your help. I have just got off the phone to them and they could reprint and fit the 'artwork' for £35 + VAT and delivery, which isn't too bad. They could reprint the art work and overhaul the unit for £60+ VAT. I think I'll find out if it works first in about two years!! Regards James |
J Paul |
Or keep an eye out for a secondhand one. |
Dave O'Neill2 |
james, glad you pointed that out, i was going to take mine apart and clean it as it is very dirty but think will leave alone now. you could pick one of those up cheaper than having new face i would think. i think i paid about £25 for mine. i have the number from the person i got it from if you want, he sells loads of midget spares or finds them if he hasnt got what you want. regards bob |
trebor |
Hi Bob, If you have the number for the spare that would be great. I am glad I did clean mine up as the chrome and glass now looks almost brand new, even if it is going to cost me to sort out the smudge! |
J Paul |
I thought I was reading about myself, I did exactly that about this time last year and it was the fuel gauge. I replaced my bezels from speedoheads. I got a secondhand fuel gauge from Andy Jennings for a fiver - his website is listed when you click on links on the home page |
Nigel Axtell |
hi james. the gauge that fits the 65 mkii should be FG 2530/70. that should be on the gauge you have. this gauge works without a voltage stabiliser unlike the others. make sure thats what you have and nobody has altered anything. i got quite a few bits that got me out of trouble from richard woolley. hes on this site under the classifieds. phone numbers are 01332510130 and 07749838528. there is no saying a second hand one wont be grubby.? reason they get dirt in them is it should be externally lit which means dirt gets in the open slots around gauge to let light in. hope this helps. bob. |
trebor |
Hi, Nigel thank you for making me feel a little better! Bob thanks for all the information I am sure that is the same one and i will give Richard a call. Many thanks James |
J Paul |
James, I once tried to clean up the shiny reflector part of a rear light with a mild paint polish and straight away the shiny started to go dull as it lifted off showing the plastic below - so don't do that, but cleaning bulb glass and the inside of lenses can make them much brighter (and obviously the electric connectors, bulb base and back-plate for earthing) |
Nigel Atkins |
Hi Nigel, Thank you for the advise, as that is certainly one I would walk right into! All the best James |
J Paul |
clean electric contacts are a great idea on these cars, all contacts, they also then need to be secure and protected to work well loads of info in Archives, you can protect the internals of the connection with proper (can't think of the name) stuff from good (auto) electric component supplies if Bill's about he'll know the name of the stuff you then need to protect the exterior of the connection with covers, sleeving, boots, etc. always start with the gentlest method, tool or chemical - where possible let the chemical do all the hard work email me if you want lists of very general, very non-technical stuff |
Nigel Atkins |
Thanks again Nigel I'll let you know |
J Paul |
Why not just find an artist that is good at lettering and have them.re-paint the "E" back on... You said it in your 1st sentance... The letters were painted on...id think some kid in high school can do it for 5-10 dollars In fact try a christmas craft bizare show... A big place of artist selling there art to the public... Normally in a large legion hall...you should be able to find someone there on site ... Bring the paint, and your good to go |
Prop and the Blackhole Midget |
This thread was discussed on 21/11/2012
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