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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - I'm doing it: 1275 to 1500 conversion

Why, you may ask. Oh God, why?
Yes, the road ahead is dark my friends, a midget Black Hole, if you will.
Two cars will be fused, many resources will be squandered, sparks will fly and fumes will waft, but a road worthy machine will, will I say, rise from the surgeon's slab. Awkward at first yes, yes, but driven, if you will, towards a higher purpose, that loftiest of ambitions OH! to seize the chalice, and drink in the unsanctioned ambrosia of 63 mph @ 2,000 rpm!

Seriously, I've grown bored with my '79 1500, but it has a rebuilt Spitfire engine (non-ported head) mated to the Frontline Ford type nine 5-speed kit, both with under 4,000 miles on them. I've been looking for a body to put said engine/gearbox in for a few years, finally found the right car at the right price. As mentioned above, my 1500 does 63 mph on the highway at 2,000 rpm. I don't know how fast she'll go 'cause I'm chicken/sane but I'd guess 115 mph isn't out of the question. In short, too sweet (and expensive) a package to abandon, so into the 1967 Mark 3 she goes. 1500's rear axle as well. The transplantee is a February (or thereabouts) 1967 build, negative earth but with the simpler wiring harness that disappeared not long after, no body cancer, just worn out paint from being in the sun and fog too long.

This thread will fall off the bottom of the Technical page soon enough, but I will refresh it on occasion, with pictures, as progress is made. There is a dearth of information on the interwebs about this particular surgical abomination, I intend on adding to the knowledge base by sharing my project. Wish me luck.

And in homage to those who have gone before and their wildly out-of-the-box ideas, their possibly slippery grip on the concept of beginnings, middles and ends, and their endlessly optimistic spirit, I leave you with an oldie but a goodie: Prop's Flow Chart.






Richard Reeves

I ask, why not? It's a thing to do, so indeed, why not?

But also, why?

Because you say only, -- "Seriously, I've grown bored with my '79 1500,--"

You don't say there is anything wrong with its body.

I'm certain Prop would be all for it. Lol.
anamnesis

If I was going to swap engines from my 1275 the engine I’d be looking for is a 1100cc K series, back when I worked at MG Rover ( the Phoenix lot) I took a Rover 25 with the 1100cc engine home for the weekend, it didn’t have a rev counter because it didn’t seem to need one but it was so much fun to drive!

I’d be amazed if any have survived though
Malc Gilliver

Weren't they transverse Malc?

Is it possible to convert to inline?
anamnesis

They were transverse, but the gearbox bolts on the end. It’s not underneath like a Mini.

Was the 1100 an 8-valve version?
Dave O'Neill 2

Interesting.

Rover K-series engine

All 1100 engines displace 1.1 L; 67.9 cu in (1,113 cc) with bore X stroke of 75 mm × 63 mm. Four variations were created:

SOHC K8 8-valve, Carburettor, 60 PS (44 kW; 59 hp)
SOHC K8 8-valve, SPI, 60 PS (44 kW; 59 hp)
SOHC K8 8-valve, MPI, 60 PS (44 kW; 59 hp)
DOHC K16 16-valve, MPI, 75 PS (55 kW; 74 hp)

Cars that came with the 1100:

Rover Metro
Rover 100
Rover 200
Rover 25

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rover_K-series_engine

anamnesis

The one drive would have been Rover 25, 2001/2003 ish I thing the DOHC 75 ps seems about right, at the time I was driving a Honda Accord Type R and the Rover put as much of a smile on my face as the Honda did.

The under square engine just loved to rev and IMO would make a fantastic engine for a Spridget and not so powerful as the overwhelm all the suspension and brakes

Caterham have been fitting K Series engines for years all the parts will be available
Malc Gilliver

Surprising nobody has done it already. Money spent on upping the hp on a 1275, might have been beter spent buying a scrap 1.1 k car; leaving aside originality concerns, which you do anyway with a T9 box.

I wouldn't do it now, but maybe if I'd known this say 10 years ago, I might well have considered it.

Or maybe not. K conversion is still quite involved isn't it?

anamnesis

People have fitted the 1.8 k but I think that’s ott.

With the oil pressure issue I was getting close to look for a 1.1 k

With the 1.1 k I’d be tempted to use the original gearbox
Malc Gilliver

Richard is in California - I'm not sure how many K series engined cars made it over there. Ford on the other hand - if there's already a Ford Gearbox, quite a few nice 4 cylinder Ford engines would fit.

In the UK, maybe easier to find a 1.4 than a 1.1 and go easier on the throttle...
P Peters

Had a Rover Metro with an 1.1 engine and 5 speed box. It was as Malc says, a keen little revver.
The 5 speed box helped too.
It was quick, economical and served well on a 100 mile daily commute.
Would be a good modern substitute for a 1275.
Jeremy MkIII

Would the 1.1 K series 16V or 8V be more robust than the larger displacements wrt needing to be warmed up slowly or standard head gaskets?

Can they rev higher than the larger capacities and if so what's the limit?
P Peters

There are a couple of differences between the 1275 and 1500 shells that might impact fitting a 1500 engine into the earlier tub.
The front cross member is different in front of the crank pulley, and the chassis rail (at least on one side) is revealed back around the rear of the engine to give adequate clearance for fitting of the 1500 lump.
Not insurmountable, but may need some modifications
GuyW

The main problem with the 1500 engine/gearbox is it's longer than the 1275 so needed to be moved forward about an inch to maintain the gearstick in the same place.. This was mainly accomplished using different engine mounts which look similar but the flanges where it screws to the original holes are bent in such a way as to move the mount 1/2" forward. In a 1275 chassis the pulley of the 1500 engine would be further forward than the cross member that the steering rack is bolted to. To solve this the centre of the cross member was modified to bend down in a U shape so it would accommodate the longer engine. I think the front cross member between the chassis longitudinals was also moved forward a bit to accommodate the longer sump.
At the rear backplate the two longitudinal chassis members are chamfered at the top inner edges to give more clearance for the larger backplate.

Rob
MG Moneypit

Having had, in the same car:

64bhp A series
75bhp A series
105bhp 1400 K
120bhp 1400 K
140bhp 1600 K
160bhp 1600 K
Something bigger bhp 1800 K once it's finished

Then for a standard road car, I'd fit the 1400.

In the US,it would be different. However, I'd spend the money on an A before swapping to a 1500. There are a few around now with a mostly reliable 100bhp or so but a huge number more A series at that level.

However 2, that's what you have so go for it!

The 1400 I had, I set the rev limiter to 7700 and it was absolutely fine until the (overdue by 8 months from the 7 year service life) tensioner failed at Anglesey after a trip to and back from 8200. It was a magic little engine and had over 110k on it when it died. Not so much that it overwhelmed everything else.

The HGFs are a thing of the past now; well understood and easily headed off at the pass.

Rob Armstrong

Richard you say the 1500 engine is very good and your happy with it, and the gearbox and axle.

I'm going to repeat my earlier question.

Why? Because you say only, --

"Seriously, I've grown bored with my '79 1500,--"

You don't say there is anything wrong with its body. You don't say it's rusty or crash damaged. Just boring.

In what way are you bored sufficiently with your '1500', to want to move its engine and transmission to an earlier car? Is it the rubber bumpers? The later trim and switches etc?

I'm just curious. Because others have described a few, albeit not insurmountable, issues in putting a 1500 engine and box into an earlier chassis.

Since you are going to alter a '67, and completely change its character, so you won't end up with a '67 car anyway, wouldn't it be easier to make your 1500 look like a '67?

Just debumper it. Swap the dashboards, seats etc. Scrap the '67, and use whatever you need from it, to disguise your 1500.

Or maybe it's easier to plonk the 1500 into the '67, than debumper etc a 1500?


anamnesis

@Rob Did you use the standard fuel injection on the Ks or something else? If the former was it straightforward to plumb in the different fuel pump and return?

Also the 120bhp 1.4, what did you do to get that? I think the standard was 105bhp and if a smaller throttle body a bit less so I guess you tweaked something

P Peters

Keep going Rob.
I recall (for the first time in my life) saying "that will be enough power" when we first fitted a std K series into one of our Midgets. 23 years and numerous tweaks and eventually a supercharger later we are now at 260BHP. Sooooooooo much fun in a Midget, they handle it so well.
But to be fair it was lots of fun in all the earlier iterations too.
Paul Walbran

Paul,

That's what I found, after you sort the handling/roadholding to get through the corners quicker you need more power to get to the next corner sooner, if funds allow.
David Billington

Exactly. Especially the funds. It's all that first loop of Prop's flow chart ("did it work? ") that gobble it up. But that's the fun of it... why we play with our Midgets rather than buy a boring already sorted something newer.
And the end result when we get to Prop's "drive it" box makes it so worthwhile whatever route we take to get there.
Paul Walbran

Which really takes us back to Richard's opening question: Why?
Because we can. And we enjoy doing it.
Paul Walbran

I've used the standard injection on the 1400 and 1600, and individual throttle bodies on the 1600 and 1800.

To get to 120 I had an aftermarket ECU, bigger single alloy throttle body, alloy VVC inlet and a decent exhaust.

Fuel lines are send and return with a swirl pot and HP pump behind the bulkhead in front of the axle; standard tank, return into the filler neck.

Rob Armstrong

Okay first things first: In my OP I reported this to be a negative earth vehicle.
Nyet.
Positive earth, 1967, partially converted to negative earth by a prior owner. I say partial because wiper motor terminals not reversed, haven't got a close-up look at the fuel pump wiring yet.
anamnesis, I said bored, but offended would have been more accurate. My 1979 California car (known henceforth as Donormobile) is so dumbed down with safety and worse, emission control "features" as to be a mockery of the original design and intent. Under the bonnet it's a Medusa's Nightmare. I crave the simplicity of a simpler time, a simpler machine. As to debumpering instead, well, let's just say that I get my pets debumpered, which keeps them compliant, predictable, docile and boring. Just like Donormobile..

Progress update: I've been working an ancillaries and cosmetics, haven't yet pulled the lump from Donormobile, which is really going to be necessary to get a proper look at the geometry of the coming surgeries.

In the first pic multiple things visible:

Blue: repositioned coil and solenoid
Green: new clutch master to slave fluid line
Upcoming surgical procedures:
1: The inner leftside footwell wall needs to be opened to accommodate the starter motor/flywheel assembly.
2. This brace (and old coil mount) likely needs removal to accommodate the twin HS4 set going in.
3. Exhaust downpipe location will need widening to accommodate the twin pipes of the 4-2-1 header unit.
4. Not visible, the tunnel crossmember needs removal and replacement. Numbers 1 thru 3 are easy, this is somewhat more complex. I've already done it on Donormobile so hopefully some muscle memory kicks in.
5. 5A & 5B are the big Kahunas: 5A in the 1500 series is deeply concave to accommodate both the crankshaft pulley and the oil pan. 5B appears to not exist on the 1500, again, to accommodate the crankshaft pulley. Although this piece appears to be structurally quite important to my untrained eye, it's complete absence in the 1500 gives one pause to consider various options.

Second pic: I've pulled and installed the accelerator pedal pivot rod from Donormobile, as the required tunnel mod likely would have fouled the original pedal operation. Old and new mounting points circled in red. The inset pic gives a decent view of the bulge in the 1500 tunnel that I have to replicate.

Lastly, although not strictly relevant to the thread title, the keen observer may have noticed a few more wires than typical for the vintage: there's a dynamo-to-alternator conversion afoot, plus I'm adding a gauge or two and an indicator lamp or two, I wanted all that incorporated into the new harness from the get-go.






Richard Reeves

5B does exist on the 1500 but in a different form. If you imagine the top surface of 5B is pressed downward so it lies at the same height as 5A and forms a U shape between the rack mounting points, then the front and rear sides are filled in to add strength you end up with that in the 1500. I think this was done so you could fit a fan belt.

Also, I learned just today, that the brackets for the A frame inboard mounts are different. The 1500 ones allow the A frame to be lower (than the chrome bumper A frame) to raise the ride height of the 1500. Plus the 1500 had taller springs to further raise the ride height and cope with the heavier engine and gearbox.

Also, at the point where the back plate is situated on the 1500, the top inner corners of the longitudinal chassis members are chamfered to allow for the larger engine back plate.

Rob
MG Moneypit

Valuable information Rob thank you. Those chamfers sound subtle enough to miss, glad I know about them.

Google AI reports my 1500 lump and Ford type 9 combo weigh in at ~34# net increase over an A-series/ribcase combo. While I don't exactly trust AI to get it right, if this is anywhere near correct it seems sufficiently minimal to not require attention/compensation. I suppose I should weigh the lump and box while out of the car. The further back the center of gravity is on that combo the more of that 34# is shared with the rear axle as well. Not much granted, but some. If anyone begs to differ please tell me now while I'm rebuilding the front suspension.

By the way, image shows mileage on my project 1967 car as acquired. Inset shows the engine # in Donormobile that's going into the 1967. I'm not much for omens and such, but I think that's an omen. Pretty sure.



Richard Reeves

A couple of things:-

Fuel pump, as original, is not polarity sensitive. I believe an MGB pump is, as it incorporates a diode. If you have a non standard pump fitted, that could be a different matter.

You don’t need to worry about the front suspension mounts, unless you want to increase the ride height to the same level as the 1500. Why would you?

With regard to the weight of the engine/gearbox, you could fit slightly uprated front springs to compensate. Although, as you said, the difference isn’t huge.
Dave O'Neill 2

I am tempted by the 8V carb versions of the 1.1 or 1.4 K Series to go into a Locost project mated to a 4 speed Ford gearbox (Type E) just for ease of using a Type 9 conversion bellhousing). SU carb and no electronics.

The 8valve carb engines and donor cars are getting thin on the ground with 1.1 carb ones the most common; more choice for injection and twin-cam K series (MGFs are common donors but even cheap ones of them must be drying up soon).
M Wood

I think you will find that 63mph at 2000rpm = 31.5mph per thousand rpm.

If you divide 115mph by 31.5mph you get an rpm of 3,650 and the engine in your would be needing to make anywhere between 84 and 107 bhp depending on the Coefficient Drag (CD) of your car. I think you will find that it won't making that much power at that rpm and won't do 115mph in 5th gear. In fact you might even find the top speed of your car is higher in 4th than 5th and the top speed will be around the 100mph mark possibly a bit less.
Daniel

Yes the 1500 is a heavy lump compared to the A-series and that's detrimental to acceleration, braking and handling. You can replace the cast iron bell housing and water pump housing with aluminium ones which will help. You can also re-case the T9 with a Quaife aluminium case.
Daniel

Might be my memory but I don't recall ever having to change anything about the wiper motor when swapping polarity.
Paul Walbran

I think your memory is fine, Paul.

Swap the coil terminals, tacho and flash the dynamo, unless converting to alternator.
Dave O'Neill 2

Yep, that's all that's needed.

Just think, in a few year's time, there will be nobody left who remembers how we all did this basic stuff; other than perhaps 'specialist' auto electricians, who will claim it's ever so complicated, and charge (pun intended) you an arm and a leg to do it.

Hang on to ya Haynes and the like, they may become valuable. 🤣.

The past where we used to live, is fast becoming somewhere unreachable even by memory.

--------------

Let us close our eyes
Outside their lives go on much faster
Oh, we won't give in
We'll keep living in the past

https://youtu.be/m__wmsIn99E?feature=shared



anamnesis

The tachometer is the tricky one as the casing is earthed so you don't want it contacting the dash after conversion. Better to reverse +ve and -ve internally imv.
Bill B

People have already forgotten who invented the seed drill.
Daniel


Jethro Tull of course. Since we're living in the past that's a great cue for this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3Dm__wmsIn99E&ved=2ahUKEwipn4fT-MOOAxWkW0EAHRsUNMsQ9KsOegQIEhAB&usg=AOvVaw2f1S69t92scP55Wezk-SMP
Bill B

Yep, that's the link I posted Bill. 😉

Better twice than forgotten. Lol.

Or did you forget to remember?

https://youtu.be/zXERHsuIyUQ?feature=shared



anamnesis

Oh dear Anam - maybe I should plead insanity 😮

Yeah, I forgot to remember....
Bill B

Me too Bill.

And we're not alone.

"I've been mad for f*cking years, absolutely years, been
over the edge for yonks, been working me buns off for bands..."

"I've always been mad, I know I've been mad, like the
most of us...very hard to explain why you're mad, even
if you're not mad..."

-----

So take a breath. Don't catch that wave. Don't race to an early grave.
---

https://youtu.be/9YOyDSjXJnk?feature=share


anamnesis

This thread was discussed between 15/06/2025 and 17/07/2025

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG Midget and Sprite Technical BBS is active now.