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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Indicators Stopped Working.

MK.3.1275.Getting ready for MOT and L/R/indicators not working but hazzard flashers are.
Also the stop/brake lights are inoperative ,am I right in thinking these are on the same circuit(ignition on).
The four fuses under the cover look ok and I have found two line fuses.
One under the facia near the ign.switch and one under the bonnet/hood near the main fuse box both good.
Are there any more.
I will be taking the fuse block off to clean all connections later.
Have you guy's any thoughts on a fix.
s johnson

The indicators and brake lights are both on the 'green' circuit. One of the fuses in the fuse box has white wires on one side and green on the other. Make sure you have 12v on the green side. If not, check for 12v on the white side.
If you do have power on the green side, you can eliminate the brake light switch by removing the two wires and joining them together.
If you can try those tests first and report back.
There are a number of other things to check if all the above are OK.
Dave O'Neill2

I'm looking at my copy of the Driver's Handbook -

in the fuse box, second fuse down from top is for (ignition on) indicators, brake and reverse lights, why not check that fuse - 17 amp continuous (35 amp blow)

if you clean up the fuse box be very careful to put it back correctly, i.e. keep the top at the top or all the wiring will be wrong

. in-line fuse under fascia is to hazard switch
. in-line fuse above fuse box is for windscreen wipers, heater blower motor and radio if fitted

if you buy a copy of the relevant Driver's Handbook you'll have at your fingertips all the info on fuses, fuse box, wiring diagrams and a lot, lot more that will help you prepare for the MoT and to operate and service your car - Ref: 0057 -

VOSA MoT inspection manuals -

Nigel Atkins

Good point about the fuse box orientation. I had intended to mention it, but I'm struggling with an I-phone keypad and it's a nightmare!
Dave O'Neill2

unlike me to remember such things

as I've not put this up for a good while below is the contents page of my MK3 midget Driver's Handbook (with GAN-4 supplement) to show how comprehensive the DHs are

Nigel Atkins

Had the same issue in my 79 midget, 4 ways yes turns no, replaced the flasher unit in the glove box. Was advised that all juice moves through he 4 way switch so sprayed it with an anti corrosive and cycled it mucho also a shot of the stuff at the base of the turn stalk. All working now. The turns don't come on at once like modern rides but seem to think about it for a few seconds first then leisurely engage.
Brake bulbs sound good try jumping the switch.
Bob Ketcham

First of all thanks for the helpful reply's.
But the solution proved more error than judgement.
I will leave cleaning the fuse block up for another day.
All the fuses were found to be good and connections clean.
Cowl off, using a test bulb power was getting to all terminals on the indicator/dip. switch.
Thoughts went to the flasher unit and four way flasher unit.moved the connections and shock the indicators blinked into life al be it very sluggish to the point of nearly stopping or as Bob said " leisurely".
Is it worthwhile trying to clean the insides.or would a new unit perform better.
Thanks again
s johnson

Slow indicator flash is normally due to poor connections in the circuit, giving a high resistance.

It would be a good idea to clean all the bullet connectors in the indicator circuit and check that the lamps are all earthing properly.

Have you fixed the brake lights?
Dave O'Neill2

clean the flasher unit casing and terminals and the spade connectors on the wires to it

the indicator goes into a holder, the holder is screwed or riveted to the car body

the holder gives the earth connection so if that is rusty or crudded up or the indicator unit case crudded up you'll not get a clean earth path

and as Dave's put all connections and earths need to be clean, secure and protected for good transfer of the electricity
Nigel Atkins

just remembered - do not buy a new indicator flasher unit as, unless things have changed, they've p*ss poor build quality and won't last a matter of weeks if they work at all

I've got a spare (was new) holder and s/h working indicator if you're stuck - I use a modern electronic version, which some frown on

Nigel Atkins

Hi guys,

Sorry to say this Nigel, but the original 3 pin or 2 pin type flasher units don't need an earth to function, they'll work just dangling in the wires!

Agree about the cheap replacement ones supplied now though, they are rubbish.

Best way is fit a modern electronic one, which will need an earth tho.


Connect as follows...........

49 to live supply

49a to flasher switch

31 to a good earth.

SR Smith 1

When cleaning all the connections as per Dave's advice above, pay particular attention to the contact between bulb and lamp base in the front flasher units. Wet road crud manages to track from the inner wing along the wire into the bulb socket, allowing our constant friend Mr R Ust to intervene. A very common cause.
Paul Walbran

Stew, Steve, others,
sorry my mistake, Steve thanks for correcting me, I can only think I was mixing it up with the instrument voltage stabiliser

if I'd have took my own advice and checked in the 'good book' rather than rely on my poor memory and even poorer brain I'd have seen for myself

offer of (was new) holder and s/h working indicator if you're stuck is still on if you want the original look/parts

I've even got another s/h slightly rusty clip if you want an even more original look :)
Nigel Atkins

Go electronic!!! As Nigel said the "new" ones are dreadful. My V8 conversion is still running an old and battered Lucas cylindrical unit out of a Minor 1000. My factory V8 is the said electronic flasher, bought after going through several new ones in a matter of months. I dismembered it to see the innards…………………crude, flimsy and cheap, come to mind!!
Allan Reeling

All thanks for the comment's.
Dave sorry for not replying but after cleaning connections around the fuse box brake light's are now working.
Nigel thanks for the offer of flasher unit but I will try the electronic one.Local dealer Simon Robinson seems fair plus 10% off.MOSS pulled out of Darlington due to low sales,pity.
s johnson

I'm happy with the electronic version, steady pace of indicating whilst stationary at road stops instead of slowing at idle

Dave put that the electronic can hide problems elsewhere but I regularly check all indicators are working just by looking at their reflected light when using them

you still want clean, secure and protected connections, earths and wires in the rest of the circuit to get the most electric you can to the bulbs
Nigel Atkins

Fitted an electronic version same location as Nigel's, The two wires were long enough to feed through the grommet in the bulkhead,what a difference nice steady blink.
Yesterday was the MOT and a pass, always a nice feeling. In the advisory notes it was stated an " oil leak " what's new.
Got a shock on the price though normally in this area about £30, handed over two twenty pound notes waiting for change.£40 is that what you are paying.... it's £50.
50 quid I nearly dropped.
One good thing this year was the new ruling on nil road tax.
The Midget was built in October 1973 but registered in March 1974 so all paperwork to DVLA just waiting for historic tax disc and some good weather.
s johnson

well done on passing the MoT

the MoT fee is £54.85 so anything below that is good

I keep meaning to take an indicator bulb out of its holder to see if the warning light blinks faster on the electronic unit - but I've not had to take a lens off since fitting the electronic so still don't know
Nigel Atkins

This thread was discussed between 17/04/2014 and 29/04/2014

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